Kris,
I will order this model from you when you have completed the decorations.
I will order this model from you when you have completed the decorations.
Szkutnik - New Design POB HULL - New solution for impatient modelers
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PROBABLY ME TOO. GOD BLESS, STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
Although I can understand that one wouldn't describe this to be a "true wooden model ship", it will still be a model of a ship. For me at this scale I would always build in wood but I could imagine there's a market for miniature ship models with this method.
I agree. I would love more model ships in the 1/200 or even better 1/300 scale.
It looks that the parts are printed on FDM Printer, is that correct? Do You think in 1/300 this would still be possible? I think for the decorations the resolution of FDM wouldn't be fine enough though...
I agree. I would love more model ships in the 1/200 or even better 1/300 scale.
It looks that the parts are printed on FDM Printer, is that correct? Do You think in 1/300 this would still be possible? I think for the decorations the resolution of FDM wouldn't be fine enough though...
Great work Kris.
The approach of the future here now but I prefer the smell and feel of wood. Rich (PT-2)
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But isn't building half the fun? Sometimes frustration, cussing, cut fingers... etc?Ahoy!
SAINT PHILIPPE HULL (1693) - Ready for 3D PRINT or CNC Machine. If someone needs it ??
View attachment 246839View attachment 246840
Its just the inner carcass of the hull . You still need to plank over it and build a wooden deck.
Several questions for this come up to mind very quickly.
1. In the photos you use several sections to create the resin under hull, using a tab/slot style of joining the sections together, and creating something to plank over.
Would it not be easier, quicker, more affordable to simply 3d print the filler blocks needed to sand the more complex frames into shape. Or to simply 3d print the most complex shaped frames for folks?
2. How does the thickness of the 3d hull component coincide with scale thickness of the finished hull?
3. How much does the 3d shell interfere with installing the frames, ring bolts, and such like?
4. How hard would it be to use this method to create a cut away model of a ship?
1. In the photos you use several sections to create the resin under hull, using a tab/slot style of joining the sections together, and creating something to plank over.
Would it not be easier, quicker, more affordable to simply 3d print the filler blocks needed to sand the more complex frames into shape. Or to simply 3d print the most complex shaped frames for folks?
2. How does the thickness of the 3d hull component coincide with scale thickness of the finished hull?
3. How much does the 3d shell interfere with installing the frames, ring bolts, and such like?
4. How hard would it be to use this method to create a cut away model of a ship?
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Ahoy!
@tball4217 -
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On the inside of the 3D hull are printed places of fastenings of decks.
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Cut away model of a ship........ Do you mean a section of the hull (cross section or stern) ?
There will be no problem. We will print the hull shell plating, which should be covered with veneer on both sides. After frames, channels, cannons, gunport lids, decors and ........ should be glued from wood. We can design and perform some wood elements for the model in any scale.
@tball4217 -
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The main idea of 3D printing the hull is to minimize the working time of the modeller. The filler blocks, most complex shaped frames and other parts printed separately will not shorten time as quickly as printing the full hull in 3-4 parts. Your method is NOT EASIER and NOT QUICKER for me and for modellers who don't have much time for their hobbies.
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The finished hull MUST hold the scale. Before making the project, we agree all the details with the person who orders the product. Many many questions. We need to know the thickness of the veneer that will be used to cover the plastic hull (outside and inside the hull). Thicknes of the finished hull IS THE SAME as the thickness of the hull plating in the scale.
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Why do you want to put the frames inside the hull? Hull is inflexible. For the hull, you can receive deck beams and ready-made decks from us.
On the inside of the 3D hull are printed places of fastenings of decks.
4. -
Cut away model of a ship........ Do you mean a section of the hull (cross section or stern) ?
There will be no problem. We will print the hull shell plating, which should be covered with veneer on both sides. After frames, channels, cannons, gunport lids, decors and ........ should be glued from wood. We can design and perform some wood elements for the model in any scale.
Great to see your latest developments Kris. Well done.
I think this is an excellent way to build ship models. Simply plank over the resin hull with timber planks.
It is definitely an alternative (new perhaps?) way of building models for someone who is in the rush, or someone who struggles to develop a correct shape of the hull. However, you still have to plank the hull, and being this said, does anyone have an experience of what type of glue to use, and most importantly, how long this glue will hold the planks before a disaster? Will it adhere to climate changes (not global warming
) just regular humidity above 80%?
Hi Jim,
agree with you about the glue issue. Perhaps a 2 part epoxy glue would be the best bet.
agree with you about the glue issue. Perhaps a 2 part epoxy glue would be the best bet.
Let's consider this as a Beta Test to see what works and possibly unfortunately what does not! Best of luck in your choice. Rich (PT-2)
