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Thanks Mark!And there it is ... beautiful! Well done Dean
I am not sure I like having a model in a case, it keeps the dust off, however it prevents you from leaning in very closely to see details. Definitely a trade off.
I decided to pay homage to Emerson Fittipaldi and place a photo of him in the display case. Unfortunately it is only black and white, but will do for now.
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WOW! What a masterpiece. This is definitely one of my favorites Dean - both as a subject and of your model-building expertise. This is "Simply the Best" and I agree wholeheartedly with all those who said that it needs to be exhibited. This is automotive art!
Thank you very much Heinrich for the kind words! As you may already know, I love all things mechanical, and cars are my first love. Then airplanes and ships!
Good news! A friend of mine said he has an autographed picture of Emerson Fittipaldi that he is going to give me to go with the car! How cool is that!
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Hi Dean, Well done, now why didn’t I paint the tyres? I agree with you that the instructions were a bit of a nightmare, I got the first batch released, and during the build they were re written three times because they were so wrong! even then there were errors. Your log is excellent, I wish that I’d had it to guide me through my build, I would probably have slept better at night.
Thank you Ken! I was lucky enough to have started with the revised instructions, that had less errors! The worst part of the instructions is that it is not often clear exactly where the parts go. So often you have to test fit and see what is intuitive. Eventually all was figured out and I even added some extras, like the instrument panel wiring, etc.
Looks absolutely amazing Dean. I’ve just had one for my birthday - from family and friends! I was always pretty good at model making but I have to say that reading through various threads on various forums has left me feeling out of my depth! Can you recommend a set of tools/equipment I should buy? I haven’t built a model for around 25 years!
Thank you! I just used a precision screw driver set. The rest was typical model building stuff, like xacto, glue, paint, paint brushes, etc. I also used bees wax to lube the screws. Some of the castings require you clean the threads up by putting the screw in first before assembling. Some people use taps to clean up the threads. But I was able to get it done with the screw. The screws are a harder material than the castings. So I never stripped the threads in a screw. But you have to be careful and tighten the screw until it stops, back up a few turns and then tighten again. Continue this until the screw goes full depth. Also be careful some threads are not that deep because of the piece being screwed onto them is thick. It should be intuitive, but just wanted to give you a heads up.
You don’t have to add detail if you don’t want to, but I wanted more realism and therefore I did a lot of painting, etc.
The instructions have been revised and are still not 100% correct. So be careful, test fit and look ahead. You can also use my build log, among others online.
Another thing is you will need glue for plastic and CA glue for the metal. Plastic to plastic = plastic glue, plastic to metal = CA glue, metal to metal is CA glue. And finally, if you glue the rubber boots to the metal, neither plastic or CA glue will work, you will need silicone glue.
Hope that helps!
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WOW - spendid.
I will add this to the gallery as well.
I will add this to the gallery as well.
Thank you Donnie! I appreciate that.
Thanks! Enjoy your build. I really like this kit. The potential for extra detail is great.
Paul Koo has now also for the Lotus a transkit with a lot of extra’s. He first informed former users. I can't access my archived email with the info right now because I'm on vacation. But you can try pjekoo(at)aol(dot)com.Thanks! Enjoy your build. I really like this kit. The potential for extra detail is great.
Otherwise I can ad it next week.
Regard, Peter
Jumbo. I have use material of Paul koi as well he is an excellent modeler and provides dvd guidance for most pocher kits. He has one for the JPS which I have also ordered last week. Along with after market extras of all sorts of detail level depending on ability etc. He has agreed I can send you his email. Dean you may want to offer comments as you have mentioned Paul before. He also provides corrections to the kits instructions as well all inc in dvd
Pjekoo@aol.com
All the best with your kit. I finished Lamborghini a few months back. And I’m also learning a lot from Deans post on Norske love billings boat.
Pjekoo@aol.com
All the best with your kit. I finished Lamborghini a few months back. And I’m also learning a lot from Deans post on Norske love billings boat.
You can find in the lower left corner of your own posts the ‘edit’ option …….
(I have to use it myself very often ……. Then you can see it in the lower right corner …..
)Regards, Peter
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From what I saw, the Paul Koo kit offers some of the instrument panel wires and cables that I scratch built, and few other items for additional details.
It would be worth looking into by anyone who wants to build this kit. For me, it’s too late and I added pretty much everything that would be included in the kit, and more. But it certainly would save time and effort by those who chose not to scratch build extra details.
Hi Dean, I’m some way into the build and I have to say that for an £800 model, it’s surprisingly inconsistent in quality. I have missing parts, instructions the wrong way. Anyway, enough moaning! I’m waiting on Pocher to send the missing parts so I have some time to look at detailing. How did you paint the transmission? What grey did you start with and what colour did you use for the dry brush - it looks really goodThank you! I just used a precision screw driver set. The rest was typical model building stuff, like xacto, glue, paint, paint brushes, etc. I also used bees wax to lube the screws. Some of the castings require you clean the threads up by putting the screw in first before assembling. Some people use taps to clean up the threads. But I was able to get it done with the screw. The screws are a harder material than the castings. So I never stripped the threads in a screw. But you have to be careful and tighten the screw until it stops, back up a few turns and then tighten again. Continue this until the screw goes full depth. Also be careful some threads are not that deep because of the piece being screwed onto them is thick. It should be intuitive, but just wanted to give you a heads up.
You don’t have to add detail if you don’t want to, but I wanted more realism and therefore I did a lot of painting, etc.
The instructions have been revised and are still not 100% correct. So be careful, test fit and look ahead. You can also use my build log, among others online.
Another thing is you will need glue for plastic and CA glue for the metal. Plastic to plastic = plastic glue, plastic to metal = CA glue, metal to metal is CA glue. And finally, if you glue the rubber boots to the metal, neither plastic or CA glue will work, you will need silicone glue.
Hope that helps!