I ordered the Micromark 87775 rip tablesaw ($90.00) and some extra blades.
The saw,(one blade comes with it, the #50320 80 tooth), and the #86619 20 tooth carbide blade were back ordered.
I got part of my order, including a 2" dia, #15220 fine saw blade.
I measured this blade - 2" dia, 10mm hole, 100 teeth with no set, thickness mikes to .0225 inches (50.25mm) - even though the catalog says it leaves a .020 kerf.
We'll see when I get my saw and test it.
EJ
Hello
Prices have probably been in creased in the meantime.
Simply request offer.
Die Sägeblätter sind absolut Spitze, Superscharf mit langer Standzeit.
Ich habe zwischenzeitlich meine verbrauchten Sägeblätter schon
zweimal bei GSP nachschärfen lassen, alles Bestens.
Karl
It arrived today. The saw body is plastic, the top is aluminum with milled groove for the mitre gauge. The saw is about 9 1/2" wide by 7 1/4" deep by 4 1/2" tall. The insert slot for the rip fence is on the left. I like to rip with the fence on the right, so a notch will have to be cut to allow the fence to be inserted there without having to remove the saw blade. This blade has an eighty tooth blade with a bit of "set" to the teeth. I miked it and it should leave about a .036 to .040 kerf. It will be interesting to see how effective the dust removal system works.
I need to check the rip fence for square. It looks ok checked with a square, but I want to check it with a dial indicator anyway, as well as the blade to mitre slot parallelism.
I'll not modify it until I take it to the shop and run some tests to be sure it's OK. I bought a small disk sander once that the motor ran backwords in. Geeze.
EJ
I need to check the rip fence for square. It looks ok checked with a square, but I want to check it with a dial indicator anyway, as well as the blade to mitre slot parallelism.
I'll not modify it until I take it to the shop and run some tests to be sure it's OK. I bought a small disk sander once that the motor ran backwords in. Geeze.
EJ
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The tool will work just fine for general modeling use. You will find the fence will get wobbly over time. I believe the blade is replaceable with other standard blades of different kerfs and number of teeth. I have the same exact basic tool but it is configured as a scrollsaw, been using it for over 15 years. It is good for the price. But don't expect the precision of a Byrnes.
The test;
Two chunks of stuff from the chunk pile, One is California redwood, the other is Michigan poplar. Poplar usually cuts leaving stringy edges when ripping.
The redwood was a scrap of 1X trim board (3/4" thick), surfaced both sides and one edge. The poplar was a piece of drawer stock, 1/2" thick, surfaced both sides and both edges. These boards can be any thickness you have laying around. The thickness will wind up being the width of the blanks, and will be resawn.
I set up the band-saw to cut off 1/8" slices. I leave them a bit on the full side. After each cut, the chunk was run through my 10" table-saw to clean up and straiten the bandsawn edge, then another slice was taken off. Did this until the chunk was reduced to a pile of 1/8" slices. Each slice had one face with table saw marks from the 10" saw and one face with marks from the band saw.
Then, I ran all the slices through the 12" planer, band saw side first to clean it up, then table saw side to take them to 3/32" size.
Then ran the thickness-ed slices through the band saw and through the table saw.
These are through the band saw 3/32" square.
These are through the new mini table saw, 3/32" square.
They are a bit cleaner. I miked about 6 of each in different locations and the strips came out about .0015 + or -.
After a pass over them with a sanding block -
I'm happy. For ripping 3/32" to 1/4" thick sliced blanks to strip width, which most of the time it is, the little table saw worked just fine. It was easier to keep cutting in a strait line than the band saw. I will be making a set of finger jigs to hold the work-piece to the fence and down to the table. I have always done that on my shop work when making stuff for a run as it makes the cuts more consistent and safer. It should work as well on the mini tools too.
For me, absolute precision is relative. When working with wood, If I make a run of material for a given job, if it's .002" over or under sized it makes little difference, as long as they are the same. After assembly, most surfaces are faired in and sanded to achive the shape, look and finish required anyway, so the original precision is relative anyway. Just like building the original ships we are trying to duplicate in scale. Those guys worked with rough sawn and hand hewn timbers. Even in to the early 1900's, furniture, construction materials etc, were still sawn and shaped with hand tools. It's just precision to the eye, does it look right? Is it pleasing?
When I'm metal working, Lathe or mill, that's a different story. Then it's precision and fit and finish.
EJ
Two chunks of stuff from the chunk pile, One is California redwood, the other is Michigan poplar. Poplar usually cuts leaving stringy edges when ripping.
The redwood was a scrap of 1X trim board (3/4" thick), surfaced both sides and one edge. The poplar was a piece of drawer stock, 1/2" thick, surfaced both sides and both edges. These boards can be any thickness you have laying around. The thickness will wind up being the width of the blanks, and will be resawn.
I set up the band-saw to cut off 1/8" slices. I leave them a bit on the full side. After each cut, the chunk was run through my 10" table-saw to clean up and straiten the bandsawn edge, then another slice was taken off. Did this until the chunk was reduced to a pile of 1/8" slices. Each slice had one face with table saw marks from the 10" saw and one face with marks from the band saw.
Then, I ran all the slices through the 12" planer, band saw side first to clean it up, then table saw side to take them to 3/32" size.
Then ran the thickness-ed slices through the band saw and through the table saw.
These are through the band saw 3/32" square.
These are through the new mini table saw, 3/32" square.
They are a bit cleaner. I miked about 6 of each in different locations and the strips came out about .0015 + or -.
After a pass over them with a sanding block -
I'm happy. For ripping 3/32" to 1/4" thick sliced blanks to strip width, which most of the time it is, the little table saw worked just fine. It was easier to keep cutting in a strait line than the band saw. I will be making a set of finger jigs to hold the work-piece to the fence and down to the table. I have always done that on my shop work when making stuff for a run as it makes the cuts more consistent and safer. It should work as well on the mini tools too.
For me, absolute precision is relative. When working with wood, If I make a run of material for a given job, if it's .002" over or under sized it makes little difference, as long as they are the same. After assembly, most surfaces are faired in and sanded to achive the shape, look and finish required anyway, so the original precision is relative anyway. Just like building the original ships we are trying to duplicate in scale. Those guys worked with rough sawn and hand hewn timbers. Even in to the early 1900's, furniture, construction materials etc, were still sawn and shaped with hand tools. It's just precision to the eye, does it look right? Is it pleasing?
When I'm metal working, Lathe or mill, that's a different story. Then it's precision and fit and finish.
EJ
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Nice thread...
I have 2 fast question:
1) What saw blades 3 1/4 , 10mm are you using (instead of the MicroMark ones).
2) is there a better blade, than the 80 teeth blade that comes with the MicroMark table saw, to cut clean and nice small pieces of wood
Thank you !!
Daniel
I have 2 fast question:
1) What saw blades 3 1/4 , 10mm are you using (instead of the MicroMark ones).
2) is there a better blade, than the 80 teeth blade that comes with the MicroMark table saw, to cut clean and nice small pieces of wood
Thank you !!
Daniel
Hello Daniel, It seems that the thread is from the last year (summer). What is the tablesaw brand you are using? Or what is the max diameter sawblades it can accepted? Another question is what is the arbor diameter of your saw? Choosing the right saw blades depends on the material you will process.
I have been using a carbide tipped 80 x 1,5 x 10 mm 36 Z blade for wood, plywood and plastics. Cuts wonderfully.
Very good for thin veneer is also 80x1.1x10mm 250Z:
Cutting disc Proxxon; 80x1,1x10,0 mm; Z250 - 28730_prox - Sawing discs - Cutting discs, sanding discs
Cutting discs, sanding discs Sawing discs Cutting disc Proxxon; 80x1,1x10,0 mm; Z250
www.verkter.com
Attachments
Sorry about that
Table saw : MicroMark till table saw.
Blades: 3 1/4 " diameter and 10mm central hole (arbor)
My use : Standard wood cuts for ship modeling
Cheers
Daniel
I have been using a carbide tipped 80 x 1,5 x 10 mm 36 Z blade for wood, plywood and plastics. Cuts wonderfully.
Very good for thin veneer is also 80x1.1x10mm 250Z:
Cutting disc Proxxon; 80x1,1x10,0 mm; Z250 - 28730_prox - Sawing discs - Cutting discs, sanding discs
Cutting discs, sanding discs Sawing discs Cutting disc Proxxon; 80x1,1x10,0 mm; Z250
I will take a look to these ones !!
Thank you !!
Daniel
Basically, I would suggest starting with three blades, It doesn't have to be the Proxxon blades but it would be difficult to find other brands as 10mm arbor is not an American standard. In Europe, you will have a better chance, IMHO.
1. Tungsten Carbide Saw Blade Ø 2" x 1/64", arbor 13/32" (50mm x 0.5mm x 10mm), fine-toothed, 80 teeth. The blade is ideal for cutting fiberglass sheets, non-ferrous metal, miniature moldings, plastics, and other "difficult-to-cut" materials. NO 28 011
2. I like this one!!! Crosscut Blade Super-Cut Ø 2 9/32" x 1/64" x 13/32" (58mm x 0.4mm x 10mm), 80 teeth. Ideal for use on hard and softwood, as well as plastic. For fast, clean cuts. The 80 teeth are alternately set and sharpened. For superior cutting power! NO 28 014
3. For final\finish and very thin Up to 1.00mm wood planks
High-Alloy Special Steel Saw Blade Ø 2" x 1/64" x 13/32 bore" (50mm x 0.5mm x 10mm), fine- 100 teeth. Alloy holding a high proportion of tungsten, vanadium, and molybdenum for an even structure, high hardness, and long lifetime. Fine-toothed. For very fine cuts in non-ferrous metals (aluminum, brass, copper). Also suitable for cutting compound materials like PC cards, and sawing wood and plastics.
NO 28 020
Hope this helps
1. Tungsten Carbide Saw Blade Ø 2" x 1/64", arbor 13/32" (50mm x 0.5mm x 10mm), fine-toothed, 80 teeth. The blade is ideal for cutting fiberglass sheets, non-ferrous metal, miniature moldings, plastics, and other "difficult-to-cut" materials. NO 28 011
2. I like this one!!! Crosscut Blade Super-Cut Ø 2 9/32" x 1/64" x 13/32" (58mm x 0.4mm x 10mm), 80 teeth. Ideal for use on hard and softwood, as well as plastic. For fast, clean cuts. The 80 teeth are alternately set and sharpened. For superior cutting power! NO 28 014
3. For final\finish and very thin Up to 1.00mm wood planks
High-Alloy Special Steel Saw Blade Ø 2" x 1/64" x 13/32 bore" (50mm x 0.5mm x 10mm), fine- 100 teeth. Alloy holding a high proportion of tungsten, vanadium, and molybdenum for an even structure, high hardness, and long lifetime. Fine-toothed. For very fine cuts in non-ferrous metals (aluminum, brass, copper). Also suitable for cutting compound materials like PC cards, and sawing wood and plastics.
NO 28 020
Hope this helps
Hi Daniel,
I manly use the Proxxon saw blade Nr. 28020.
Karl
I manly use the Proxxon saw blade Nr. 28020.
Karl
Thank you Karl !
Do you have a Proxxon table saw like the one in the picture ?
If the answer is YES then I have some questions
Do you have problems with the play between the mitre gauge T bar and the table T slot for accurate cross cutting ?
Do you have problems with the Fence that locks only on one side ?
Does the fence stay straight when cutting ? (Some reviews say that the unlocked side moves and due to that the cuts aren't straight)
Is the micrometer adjustment working well ? (A video online from an Italian ship modeler shows that the micrometer screw moves affecting the precision)
Thank you !!!
Daniel
Hello Daniel,
Proxxon has 2 types of tablesaw:
FET
KS 115
They accept different types of saw blades. KS115 has limited functionalities, and don't expect precision. This tablesaw needed serious modification in order to be presice. The FET is more suitable for our needs but still required some modification if you want precision.
Proxxon has 2 types of tablesaw:
FET
KS 115
They accept different types of saw blades. KS115 has limited functionalities, and don't expect precision. This tablesaw needed serious modification in order to be presice. The FET is more suitable for our needs but still required some modification if you want precision.
Hi Jimsky
Thank you for helping me.
I have now the MicroMark mini till table (Same size at the ProxxonFET). But I am not 100% satisfied with it. Watching the Proxxon FET videos looks like the Proxxon is "more for the same money ~$340"
But, I am not sure how serious is the mitre gauge slot play that some reviews criticize and how strong is the fence to stay straight for "our use".
My point is that a lot of reviews can have bias due to "what the user are trying to do on the table saw".
On the attached video, the Proxxon looks like a very nice one and could be better than the MicroMark till table saw that I can still return and exchange for the Proxxon.
Thank you !!!!
Daniel