Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

I was looking for a heart shaped block this morning which caused to to think about posting something else I added to my workshop a few months ago. Maybe just due to old age, but kept forgetting about small ship parts that I have and where I put them. I purchased a set of drawers from amazon to organize things. This worked out so well, and I still had parts to organize that I bought another. I had originally put small labels on the drawers, but still found that a litlle awkward. So, I made a text document that I can sort alphabetically. As I still find small parts in places I forgot, I'll add them to the bottom of the list, later add them to my text document, re-sort and re-print the list.

I also bought a couple different size of drawer dividers. Link to one is below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CK6HP2HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BTHDXCD5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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I usually use the 1 or 2 setting. Settings are 1-5. Sure doesn't seem like 5k, but I'm only guessing The slower the speed the less the torque. In the photo above I drilled a 1.0mm hole in the 3/8" mast and it drilled fine. Harder woods you would probably need a higher rpm. I use a smaller bit (something like .6mm) on setting 1 to drill out the holes a little larger in rigging blocks. Sometimes the drill doesn't have enough torque at the 1 setting, I then increase the speed to get more torque.
 
They sell Plug-n-Play rheostat control units, some are hand adjustable and one found for $36 USD is foot controlled.

You plug it into wall and the item to be controlled plugs into it and press the pedal like Admirals sewing machine.

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I want momentary because I have shaky hands. I center punch where I want to drill, set the point of the drill into the punch mark, then I want to touch the button to turn it on. On/off switches just seem to be too heavy and I push the bit out of the mark. Also a lot of drills have a wobble to them so I have trouble starting the drill and then trying to get it into the punch hole. Hopefully I can find a momentary foot switch. I guess because Dremels are mostly used for continuous grinding type stuff they correctly used an om/off switch. I just wish they had used both. Actually a mouth switch would be ideal. I think. Maybe I could just hold the two bare wires in my teeth and just short them out with my tongue to turn it on. Yeah, that would work o_O
 
The first 2 on the list are momentary. When you take your foot off they stop. The third is an on/off switch. Press to start/press again to stop. I use the on/off on my saws/thickness sander/ect and the momentary on the dremels/sanders.
 
Ultimation: It just arrived at the door. My old slicer was ready for retirement, only after one ship build. In addition, wood thicker than 1mm had a fighting chance... not anymore.

I wanted quality, sturdiness and something that would last. No joking about the quality and the precision. I just added a small base to increase the footprint (nothing big or fancy). It had a tendency to rock a little when not clamped. With this, no clamping needed.

Note: after using couple of times, I noticed very minor scratch in places where metal was touching metal. I since added a layer of sturdy transparent tape underneath few parts touching metal. That solved it without issues.

After watching multiple reviews and comments later... and a slimmer wallet.

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Took the plunge with the Admiral’s enthusiastic approval to purchase a WEN 3410 Air Filtration System. Actually, at around $ 140.00, it was a very necessary addition to my very tight “in a closet” shipyard.

My biggest concern was the noise level but fortunately, it is a very low hum of the air moving at 300 CFM, an overkill for such a small space.

Despite having a shop vacuum when using the sander and other tools the sawdust and dust was quite overwhelming I hope this to be the right answer.IMG_4740.jpegIMG_4744.jpeg
 
Loracs said:
Ultimation: It just arrived at the door. My old slicer was ready for retirement, only after one ship build. In addition, wood thicker than 1mm had a fighting chance... not anymore.

I wanted quality, sturdiness and something that would last. No joking about the quality and the precision. I just added a small base to increase the footprint (nothing big or fancy). It had a tendency to rock a little when not clamped. With this, no clamping needed.

Note: after using couple of times, I noticed very minor scratch in places where metal was touching metal. I since added a layer of sturdy transparent tape underneath few parts touching metal. That solved it without issues.

After watching multiple reviews and comments later... and a slimmer wallet.

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Received both mine last month. Invaluable additions to the “dockyard” :)
 
Uwek said:
Today I received my blocks and cleats necessary for my HMS Granado - ordered from @Dry-Dock Models & Parts

the best possible quality and service - Many Thanks

Hope to make some better photos in some time, but you get a impression about the quality

drydockmodelsandparts.com

Dry-Dock Models & Parts

Dry - Dock Models & Parts is providing high quality ship model fittings and parts
drydockmodelsandparts.com drydockmodelsandparts.com

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Good morning Uwek, I’m waiting for my section 3 of me GRANADO. If not to much trouble, would you be willing to share the quantities and sizes your order from Drydock so fire off an order as well.

Thanx and have a Great Navy Day

David
 
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