Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

Today I received post from China - on ebay I bought one of these dental bur micro motor machine ....... when I make the carving training at Ivan Trtanj I will need it

Speed up to 35.000 rpm, two handpieces,
IMG_30791.jpg

IMG_30801.jpg
 
Uwe, do you have to use the power converter for this tool and how much did it cost? in norway it is 230w.
Not necessary - it is already prepared for 220/230 Volts and has the central Europe plug
The price was 120 Euro incl. the burs, postage included - you can find a lot of them on ebay or other online dealers......usually they are technically good, got this info also from other modelers who bought such a tool
 
will you tape your training so it will be available to watch? That would be nice, perhaps a series of training for purchase (just my thoughts)?
I am very courious about the worksshop with Ivan. you will work only with the machine with him ? How long does take the workshop ?
Hallo friends,
1) A video will be problematic - because I want to learn carving and not video making ;)
Maybe some small excerpts also via video, but definitely a lot of photos
Let me see how it will going - maybe best to show Ivan at work (and not me)
2) Usually it is 5 days a 4 to 5 hours - so all together 20 hours. I do not know exactly when we will make it, but is planned for this year - have to check with Ivan and my family.
Ivan carves more or less only with rotating burs and does not use anymore chisels......He has a lot, but is not using them.

Take a look also at these photos which I made during my last visit of his museum and his workshop (October 2018)
You can see him with his rotating tool:

IMG_01101.JPG

 
2 NEW TOYS ADDED FOR ME, ONE A BIGGIE, SHOWING A MINI DRILL FROM AMAZON BY THE SAME MANUFACTURER AS THE ONE SHOWN BY DOC BLAKE ONLY THIS ONE HAS A SPPED CONTROL WORKS JUST FANTASTIC 100% BETTER THEN THE ONES USING COLLECTS, NEXT ITEM IS MY MINI DRILL FROM VANDA-LAY CALLED AN ACRA MILL HAS ALL 3 TABLES X-Y-Z- mostly all aluminium and steel only plastic handels cost almot as much as a PROXON i decided on this one as i am always looking for multi-use products it works off a dremel and has many accesories that can be added at small costs like a mini lathe, drill press, and more and once assembled i think it is easier to use then the PROXON, my only problem is me not being mechanically inclined and i have BAD PROBLEMS UNDERSTANDING THE INSTRUCTIONS WITCH IS ON THERE SITE PAGE, if any member here can help when AND IF I NEED IT WOULD BE REALY GREATLY APPRECIATED HOPE THIS ONE WORKS AS GOOD AS MY POOR MANS THICKNESS SANDER(LUTHIERS BEST FRIEND) PLEASE COMMENTS. Don20190730_223634.jpg20190730_223308.jpg
 
2 NEW TOYS ADDED FOR ME, ONE A BIGGIE, SHOWING A MINI DRILL FROM AMAZON BY THE SAME MANUFACTURER AS THE ONE SHOWN BY DOC BLAKE ONLY THIS ONE HAS A SPPED CONTROL WORKS JUST FANTASTIC 100% BETTER THEN THE ONES USING COLLECTS, NEXT ITEM IS MY MINI DRILL FROM VANDA-LAY CALLED AN ACRA MILL HAS ALL 3 TABLES X-Y-Z- mostly all aluminium and steel only plastic handels cost almot as much as a PROXON i decided on this one as i am always looking for multi-use products it works off a dremel and has many accesories that can be added at small costs like a mini lathe, drill press, and more and once assembled i think it is easier to use then the PROXON, my only problem is me not being mechanically inclined and i have BAD PROBLEMS UNDERSTANDING THE INSTRUCTIONS WITCH IS ON THERE SITE PAGE, if any member here can help when AND IF I NEED IT WOULD BE REALY GREATLY APPRECIATED HOPE THIS ONE WORKS AS GOOD AS MY POOR MANS THICKNESS SANDER(LUTHIERS BEST FRIEND) PLEASE COMMENTS. DonView attachment 106327View attachment 106328
Hallo,
interesting mini drill - do you have a link to the amazon-offer?
 
Bought a Lazy-Susan bearing for about $15 (all metal with metal bearings), and put some plywood I had around. Easy to put on larger stock for larger models if I need. I put the back end of a clothes pin under an edge to lock in place.

Mounted to some Revell plywood I had stashed for something I never did, nor remember:) I didn't mount the bottom to anything, does fine on my bench surfaces.
laz.jpg

Top view.
lab.jpg
 
Great thread! I have many of the tools listed here already but it is full of helpful ideas. My current problem is that it seems like I need a new hobby mat for each build. Between the paint and glue spillage and other mars, and I don’t know if I’m just too messy or if these mats are part of the cost of the hobby.

At any rate, I learned a lot from everyone’s posts. Thanks for sharing!
 
Today I received post from China - on ebay I bought one of these dental bur micro motor machine ....... when I make the carving training at Ivan Trtanj I will need it

Speed up to 35.000 rpm, two handpieces,
View attachment 105984

View attachment 105985

Hi Uwe
I am using a very similar tool to this. It has been running for 6 years now without any problem so reliability looks OK. I have some similar bits what you have on the picture but I found them useful only for the final finish. Because of the big diameter and the fine toothing they will burn the wood quickly. What I am using rather is in the 0.3 ... 2 mm range. These are available from jewellers's supply stores. I buy mines from HSWalsh from England. Good quality and acceptable prices.
The other type I am using is diamond burrs, bought on the Net. They are cheap and a set has usually a few wrong pieces too which have to be thrown out. These come usually in two grits: silver is 300 and gold (not available too often) is 600. Diamond burrs work like files (steel bits on the other hand work like knife blades). With the diamond burrs you can rough out but they leave a rougher surface (like files do). So scraping and/or sanding is unevitable after using diamond burrs. But these can be usually better controlled, first of all if the timber is softer, while the steel bits tend to 'bite' into the material easier.
You've done well that you did not go for the N8-N9 Marathon. They spin up to 50000 revs these days (and are too expensive) but we don't really need the high revs, they just burn the wood. For us the low revs are important and the N2-N3 range has them.
For a carver training you gonna go to the best possible place. Ivan is a master and he does not keep his secrets for himself. I am looking forward to seeing some photos (and videos if possible) about your journey. To which I wish alles Gute!
Janos
 
Hi Uwe
I am using a very similar tool to this. It has been running for 6 years now without any problem so reliability looks OK. I have some similar bits what you have on the picture but I found them useful only for the final finish. Because of the big diameter and the fine toothing they will burn the wood quickly. What I am using rather is in the 0.3 ... 2 mm range. These are available from jewellers's supply stores. I buy mines from HSWalsh from England. Good quality and acceptable prices.
The other type I am using is diamond burrs, bought on the Net. They are cheap and a set has usually a few wrong pieces too which have to be thrown out. These come usually in two grits: silver is 300 and gold (not available too often) is 600. Diamond burrs work like files (steel bits on the other hand work like knife blades). With the diamond burrs you can rough out but they leave a rougher surface (like files do). So scraping and/or sanding is unevitable after using diamond burrs. But these can be usually better controlled, first of all if the timber is softer, while the steel bits tend to 'bite' into the material easier.
You've done well that you did not go for the N8-N9 Marathon. They spin up to 50000 revs these days (and are too expensive) but we don't really need the high revs, they just burn the wood. For us the low revs are important and the N2-N3 range has them.
For a carver training you gonna go to the best possible place. Ivan is a master and he does not keep his secrets for himself. I am looking forward to seeing some photos (and videos if possible) about your journey. To which I wish alles Gute!
Janos
Many Many thanks for the information and hints - Thumbs-Up
I ordered from Germany a huge number of burs and drills - should arrive next week and I will show them here.
 
Where in Germany did you order your bits from? (Geschwein?) I am always in search for some shapes which are not available at HSWalsh.
Among the shapes I have I originally preferred the flame shape, but recently I rather use the bud ones as much as possible. They are a bit 'safer' because of their short cylindrical section in them, do not 'bite' into the wood as much the (first of all the smaller diameter) 'flames' do. Round (spherical) bits are good for roughing out but have to be controlled because they tend to bite into the wood. At the other hand these come in the smallest size (0.4, sometimes 0.3mm). There are other useful shapes too and from the broken bits I also make my own bits for the finest cuts.
Marathon comes only with 2.35mm (3/32") collet. This shank size is well supplied by jewellers supply stores as well as by general eBay sources. There are bits though which are only available in the smaller shank size (1.63mm). I've seen hand pieces which have both collets, but only the really expensive ones. For the Marathon with its only 3/32" collet I finally found a piece with the 1.63mm collet which has a 3/32" shank.
Have fun!
Janos
 
Where in Germany did you order your bits from? (Geschwein?) I am always in search for some shapes which are not available at HSWalsh.
Among the shapes I have I originally preferred the flame shape, but recently I rather use the bud ones as much as possible. They are a bit 'safer' because of their short cylindrical section in them, do not 'bite' into the wood as much the (first of all the smaller diameter) 'flames' do. Round (spherical) bits are good for roughing out but have to be controlled because they tend to bite into the wood. At the other hand these come in the smallest size (0.4, sometimes 0.3mm). There are other useful shapes too and from the broken bits I also make my own bits for the finest cuts.
Marathon comes only with 2.35mm (3/32") collet. This shank size is well supplied by jewellers supply stores as well as by general eBay sources. There are bits though which are only available in the smaller shank size (1.63mm). I've seen hand pieces which have both collets, but only the really expensive ones. For the Marathon with its only 3/32" collet I finally found a piece with the 1.63mm collet which has a 3/32" shank.
Have fun!
Janos
I ordered here for the first time:


It was a recommendation by a german modelers friend.....let us see
 
I got the parcel from Lerrox........ tomorrow I will write a little bit more, but here are already the photos

drills from 0,15 mm up to 1,0 mm , in steps of 0,05 mm
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these are the 0,2mm drills
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and also some burrs
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