Rattlesnake 1/48 - Harold M Hahn

Last sample frame.

Quick review of the process with the latest trial framework.
last frame (1).jpglast frame (2).jpglast frame (3).jpglast frame (4).jpglast frame (5).jpglast frame (6).jpglast frame (7).jpglast frame (8).jpglast frame (9).jpglast frame (10).jpglast frame (11).jpg
I have now tried myself on the most basic building methods, most of what I have done so far should be done better when the construction itself starts.
I have come to the conclusion that I am going to build frames, keels, bow, stern, deck beams the very support structure of
Birch corewood NR.3 in the last picture, deck of holly, planking of light birch.

This is one of the things I've been using time for lately, I'm going to keep copying patterns and building jig nekst.
This was all for now in this building log, a lot of work awaits.
Thanks for all the interest friends.
Greeting-
 
Hello Kurt, You seam to be following the same rout as I have in preparing materials for my Oliver Cromwell makings tons of saw dust. Yes building your hull frames on glass is a great idea. It keeps them nice and flat and straight. Looks like you will be very busy for some time building all of your frames, ENJOY.
Regards Lawrence
 
Hallo Knut,
we wish you all the Best, Health and a lot of models for the future

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Birthday-Cake
 
Congrats on your Birthday , fellow! Wish you all the best, and more models to come!!Birthday-CakeBottle
 
Thanks Jim, I've already made my first mistake with jiig, have to rebuild the build pattern plate, grinded a bit too much when I fine-tuned the inner circle, angry.
 
Jim, just a little annoying, I was probably a little too anxious, I thankfully have several copies of the pattern, exercise gives master.
 
Build jig old, here I saw too close to the pattern and therefore I have made a new one, but here I have stayed far outside the pattern.
The new construction jig will be fine-tuned as the frames begin to be finished.
Old-
a.jpg
New-
b.jpg
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Materials for frames, Birch corewood.
I start by adjusting the materials to 90 degrees and then get a more accurate angle when cutting materials for the frames.
After rough cutting, I replaced the plate for the saw blade before cutting the materials down to 3.2mm.
I applied water to the materials to give an impression of the color after (POLY).
The pictures show the process, doubting whether this is enough material for all the frames.
c (2).jpgc (3).jpgc (4).jpgc (5).jpgc (6).jpgc (7).jpgc (8).jpgc (9).jpgc (10).jpgc (11).jpg

All the materials went through my Proxxon thickness machine a couple of times, everything is now the same thickness.

Later I adjust the width and thickness to get the right dimensions, for frames and jig.
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Norway said:
Build jig old, here I saw too close to the pattern and therefore I have made a new one, but here I have stayed far outside the pattern.
The new construction jig will be fine-tuned as the frames begin to be finished.
Old-
View attachment 113988
New-
View attachment 113989
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Click to expand...
Hallo Knut,
I would cut out the notches in the jig already now - the frames should fit into the jig and not the jig around the finished frames.
Now it is also much easier to cut the notches with a scroll saw. Later it will much more complicated and will be maybe not so accurate
 
Thanks Uwe, totally agree with you, I just want the materials for the frames are the most correct thickness, then I get an opinion
about how they fit in jiig, as you say, I'll cut out the notches in jiig first and adjust the frames accordingly.

Adjusting the materials to what they are now was, a lot of work, therefore I want to make a final fine tuning quietly, do not want to make any mistakes now,
The total thickness of the double frames is 5.65 - 5.70mm, split into two, small steps, measure, measure, measure and then adjust.
Greeting from an amateur in this building technique.
.
 
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