Rattlesnake 1/48 - Harold M Hahn

Thanks for the tip Lawrence, can you tell what you paid for the jig from Lumberyard, I know from experience that shipping from the US to Norway makes the item twice as expensive, so I have to think about it + delivery time is about two months,
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Hello Knut, I sent out a request for a quote for a laser cut building jig to Dave Stevens at the Lumberyard this AM for the Rattlesnake, awaiting his reply.
Another idea would be is to take your plans over to a local laser cutter in your area and have them cut it out for you, Good luck, ENJOY.
Regards Lawrence
 
Hello Knut, I just heard back from the Lumberyard and I quote them [ unfortunately shipping to Norway is expensive. To get your friend a Jig the total is $44.00. This includes shipping but it is first class which doesn't include tracking. It would be $67.80 if he wanted to track it. ev ] I would suggest tooling up a Laser cutter in your area. These prices are in USD, ENJOY
Regards Lawrence
 
Thanks for their interest comrades, First I will try to cut jiig myself, spent a few hours yesterday to cut out the notches in jig,
Fine tuning should be done by hand, I've cut as close to the lines as possible, now comes work that requires great accuracy
so that the frames kom where they should be and not a little behind or slightly ahead and the same distance between the frames.
The arrow shows where I cut a little too far into the pattern can be fixed quickly.
Here are some pictures of rough work and some others who came to visit.
c (1).jpgc (2).jpgc (3).jpgc (4).jpg
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Those visitors I saw in our park, on the lake, a few days back. I guess they went to Norway as it getting cold in New York! :p
BTW, nice progress with jig. I didn't realize how big this model will be.
 
Hello Knut
Nice work on your jig, I would use a file to clean it up. Do not remove the lines, but only go up to them. Secondly I would get a stick the same thickness as your finished rib frames and use it to test the size of each notch, the depth and also the width of these notches are very important, go slow and you will do a great job, so much depends on this, ENJOY.
Regards Lawrence
 
Jim, I took some pictures of the drawings to show the dimensions, Height147mm, Width140mm, Length670mm, and Main mast540mm.
My model will be without the rig as Janos model shows.
NBM, has these dimensions on its website, Height24-5 / 8 ", Width12" and Length37 ".
CM (1).jpgCM (2).jpgCM (3).jpgCM (4).jpgCM (5).jpgCM (6).jpgCM (7).jpgCM (8).jpgCM (9).jpg

Lawrence, scary, I intend to do just as you say, The important thing here is to be very careful and control the measurement before you do anything.
Thank you for your attention,
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Hi Knut

Something to consider.

I have seen other builds get over the notching issue by using a different approach.

They do this by cutting the jig shape without the notches and then use spacers where the notches would be.

This way you accurately mill timber to the size of the notch and lay each frame against it as you go along.

The frame is then held right against the jig by using elastic bands back to the frame.

I hope I have been descriptive enough. I will see if I can find a link to how this was done for you to explain further

Regards

Noel
 
modelshipworld.com

La Renommée by JOUFF - 1/48 - French Frigate - by Patrick JOUFFRIN

Hello everyone ! My name is Patrick, 64, retired for 4 years soon and living in Poissy, a small town located 30 km west of Paris. I have been watching your works on this forum for several years now and as some of my compatriots are doing, I would like to show you a project I started four years ag...
modelshipworld.com modelshipworld.com

Apologies for quoting another forum, but we are all here to help each other.

Look at post 3 about half way through the photos.
 
noelcolledge said:
modelshipworld.com

La Renommée by JOUFF - 1/48 - French Frigate - by Patrick JOUFFRIN

Hello everyone ! My name is Patrick, 64, retired for 4 years soon and living in Poissy, a small town located 30 km west of Paris. I have been watching your works on this forum for several years now and as some of my compatriots are doing, I would like to show you a project I started four years ag...
modelshipworld.com modelshipworld.com

Apologies for quoting another forum, but we are all here to help each other.

Look at post 3 about half way through the photos.
Click to expand...
No problem,his log is Sos too

La Renommée - French Frigate 1744 (1/48) - Based on Monographie from J. BOUDRIOT

After introducing myself, I open this "post" where I will show you the future evolutions of my model. I started construction 5 years ago now. I'm still in the hull ... After a nice exhibition in Rochefort in October, return to the workshop for the continuation in some time ... Patrick
shipsofscale.com
 
Thanks friends, yes I have seen this log before and I understand the idea behind this type of jig, I will use spacing beams between the frames that are the same thickness as the frames, these beams will be used to make sure the dimensions are equal on both sides of the jig , equal distance between the frames and that they can be removed after I'm sure everything is lined up and the frames are glued in place.
The distance between the frames is the same as the thickness of the frames.
My building jig is by the Hahn method, the model is built upside down, this is shown in Canoes (lawrens) building log, Oliver Cromwell.
Thanks for all the information I appreciate and certainly can use in my construction projects.
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the Updates
I used the jig plate that was wrong to do a test to find out the thickness of the frames, after that it's just fine adjustments
of the jig plate that is correct.
DIV (1).jpgDIV (2).jpgDIV (3).jpgDIV (4).jpgDIV (5).jpg
The materials for frames are now adjusted to the correct width, thickness will be adjusted when the correct jig plate is finished.
DIV (6).jpgDIV (7).jpg
I found some broken lanterns that I took out the glasses and cut to a size that I can use when i am start gluing the frames.
DIV (8).jpgDIV (9).jpgDIV (10).jpgDIV (11).jpg
Then I found some plastic boxes that are used to sort the different parts of this project. and a bit of the workshop.
DIV (12).jpgDIV (13).jpg
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Thanks Lawrence, the 3 frames you see in the photo are from when I tested the woods I have available ,, the choice was the core of birch, and there is certainly a need to keep track of parts and materials along the way.
Greeting-
 
Thank you for your attention friends.
Recent work on building jig.
I started by making a template that fits into the notches of the old jig, made of oak which is a hard wood
and maintains the same width while adjusting / grinding the notches in the new jig.
JIG (1).jpgJIG (2).jpgJIG (3).jpg
SO, the moment of truth.
JIG (4).jpgJIG (5).jpgJIG (6).jpgJIG (7).jpg
I sanded very carefully in each notch and checked with template and the result I am happy with.
A little fine-tuning is needed when the frames start to fit.
Greeting-
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