Rattlesnake 1/48 - Harold M Hahn

Lawrence, I'm going to do that, but sawing and grinding is done in the garage, all bonding should be done indoors.
Right now I'm doing the work that way to make parts for Blandford.
Greeting-
 
Small but important step of preparation of materials.
I had some lengths of finished 6mm material for keel, bow and stern, after taking a closer look
on quality it was quite variable.
g (1).jpg

g (2).jpgg (3).jpgg (4).jpg
Because of this experience, I decided to cut all the materials of this type, core birch,
to more manageable lengths so I can sort by color and pattern in the tree.
Here is the result of different dimensions and lengths.
g (5).jpgg (6).jpgg (7).jpgg (8).jpgg (9).jpgg (10).jpg
Things take time since it is cold and hard to work in a cold garage at the moment, a little at a time works well.
Regards-
 
One tip I could give Knut.When sorting the colour of the timber,wipe the pieces with whitespirit to get a true indication of what the timber will look like with a finish applied.I am uncertain how much difference it will make with Birch,but it does make a massive difference with Pear.I had to use this process when I planked Royal Caroline's hull,sorting light from dark timber to get the different shades above and below the wales.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks for the advice Nigel, I'll try, this very rough saw so I'll first take a quick round of medium coarse sandpaper.
But as you say, the real color and pattern will show much better by doing as you say.
I have even tried to wash with just water because I was not sure how much white spirit will penetrate the wood.
Do you have experience with how the materials will be worked on after whitespirit ?.
.
 
Knut
The whitespirit will completely evaporate and leave no residue.I avoid water as you are affecting the moisture content and on thinner pieces you can induce warpage.You are quite correct in that you need a smooth area on the timber to get a true representation.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks Nigel, the reason I ask this question is, in other work where I should paint or paint I avoid Whitespirit
because paint / varnish does not adhere to the material due to the fact that Whitespirit contains some grease / oil.
But if you have no trouble getting the glue to adhere properly, then I don't see any problems with to
do it the way you say. I use Cascol Tre glue as many of other Norwegian model builders swear by.
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I agree with you on using water because the tree can then twist or bend, especially in my case where I do the worst / dusty
worked in my garage and after that moved indoors for finer work like fitting / gluing.

Lawrence, I was a little optimistic to begin with, but I soon found out how important this is as I have got great variations in quality
on the materials in Blandford built.
Regards-
 
I understand your concerns Knut.When I built Royal Caroline the whole planking ended up saturated in white spirit at times.This was the only way to remove the sanding residue from the Ebony that had covered the Pear.The model has a combination of Poly Varnish and Artist's Acrylics with no ill effects.The finish is about 5 years old now and still looks the same as when I first applied it.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Quality sorting of materials made with white spirit.
Made to see what the materials really look like.
As you can see there is a good deal of bad material that needs to be cut away.

An overview picture and for close-ups about 45 cm.
1 45 cm lange (1).jpg1 45 cm lange (2).jpg1 45 cm lange (3).jpg

An overview picture and for close-ups about 25 cm.
2 25 cm korte (1).jpg2 25 cm korte (2).jpg2 25 cm korte (3).jpg

Materials with templates. Mensuring 100 cm, 1 meter. Sorted materialer.
Yellowish for frames.
Red to Thickness Adjustment.
Blue for smaler parts.
White raw materials to make more parts, which I definitely have to do.
3 m mal.jpg4 tommestokk (1).jpgk number.jpg

6mm, for keel, bow and stern.
m keel (1).jpgm keel (2).jpgm keel (3).jpg


Since models should be in the 1-48 scale, so I think I can use these materials only if I sorted out the ugliest parts.
I am open to input / suggestions and good advice.
 
Knut what a difference some whitespirit makes.I would also stay away from the areas of high figuring (swirly grain) for structural parts as you can find out after hours of work that it is a weak spot.The selected pieces for the keel look ideal for the purpose.On the face of it though,I feel you may need more timber:oops:

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Nigel, Do you mean the materials that are finished or total with everything.
4 tommestokk (2).jpg
Here is a picture of what has not been cut and adjusted, there may be a lot of extra materials for the frames of this.
The plan is to make only the frames and keels, bow and stern of this tree type, and when this is done I can consider another
wood type for deck beams and so on.
.
 
Thanks Nigel, I have a good deal of holly that I want to use for all deck boards and light birch to hull planks, birch is also good for coloring black with ink for whales (not tested yet) but it sucks black stain very well .
This way I can use a good deal of the materials I have produced myself.
To be perfectly honest I have started looking around at local sawmills to see what they can deliver.
Regards-
 
Production of saw dust.
Test frame made previously without poly, - calculation and marking of templates, - another fine adjustment of templates, -
two pictures of finished materials so far, - the materials I dried over with white spirit are stored for themselves since they stink, I hope this smell disappears eventually.
Frames (1).jpgFrames (2).jpgFrames (4).jpgFrames (6).jpgFrames (7).jpgFrames (8).jpg
The next task is to mark materials with the templates, to see if I have enough materials for all the frames and half-frames.
Regards-
 
Nigel, sawdust is already emptied into the compost pile, when I leave the room I disconnect all power consumers to be completely safe
With regard to fire hazards, another thing is that sawdust can be self-igniting in contact with various oils
and other chemicals.
It is a great relief to hear that the smell disappears, as it now smells now the materials should be ventilated in the garage.
Thank you for your attention-
 
I guess you are also not smoking, or?
But I am jealous when I see your workshop - so plenty of space - because of this you can work on several projects in the same time - never boring! GREAT
 
Jim, a total of 49 if we can count a half frame as a frame.

Uwe, I smoke but not near chemicals and other burning materials.
I have an apartment in my old parents' villa, and therefore dispose of this garage because it is I who look after them and take care off
of all the practical and heavy work for them, Big house and large garden, lots to look after.
Many projects - Blandford, rattlesnake, 3 hulls - Endeavor to practice planking and deck.
Regards-
 
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