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Hi Paul, Thanks for you welcome, yes, it feels like the right time to start up again, no more lapses.
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Royal William, Euromodel, a retro log
- Thread starter Ken
- Start date
- Watchers 17
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- Tags
- euromodel royal william
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Hi Peter, Thanks. I haven't started building again yet, I'm just finishing my log of my completed model to get my mind back in the groove. I do however have my next project lined up, it's a large quite difficult build, but more of that later.
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Hi Herman, Thanks for showing an interest in my build, knowing that members appreciate your work provides the motivation to continue
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Hi Gig, There's plenty of room and you're a very welcome addition, thanks for stepping aboardHello Ken,
I stumbled across your construction report by chance. The Royal William is also one of my favourite ships. I hope I can join in and that there's still a little space left for me. Great construction report so far!!
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I use medium Cyno. for the second planking. I find that this horrid stuff gets everywhere, makes a mess and sticks everything to everything else, mostly to fingers and the fumes are not very pleasant. The nozzles quickly clogged up and I am only ever able to get through half a bottle before throwing it away.
This time I used a syringe needle it was a simple and very affective way of using the stuff without any of the mentioned problems.
In the pictures you'll see that I insert the needle into the bottle, I let it make its own hole, it makes a good seal that way, I find that you get a nice thin flow that can be accurately controlled with your fingers well out of the way. When the needle starts to get a build up of dried glue or clogs just hold a light to it, as it is very flammable the excess rapidly burns off and you are quickly left with the needle that's like new with no effort. I find that a needle will last almost indefinably and the whole bottle stays usable to its end. I bought the needles on EBay for very little, a five pack will last a lifetime.
As you see I glue the planks in about 2" - 3" lengths using the needle to put a line of glue under them as I go. I was careful with the upper planks as they won't be painted. I use white glue when I put the fillets in as it's easier to wipe clean. I also use white glue for the first planking and most other wooden parts
I continued the planking but now from the keel upwards, again with no plan other than keeping things neat, it took less time than I’d expected to complete, just three more days, albeit very long ones.
Newly laid planks prior to sanding never look particularly good especially in a sharp photograph but I am very pleased with the result so far.
This shows the needle after use
This shows it burning off
This shows after the burn
This shows how I apply the cyno
This time I used a syringe needle it was a simple and very affective way of using the stuff without any of the mentioned problems.
In the pictures you'll see that I insert the needle into the bottle, I let it make its own hole, it makes a good seal that way, I find that you get a nice thin flow that can be accurately controlled with your fingers well out of the way. When the needle starts to get a build up of dried glue or clogs just hold a light to it, as it is very flammable the excess rapidly burns off and you are quickly left with the needle that's like new with no effort. I find that a needle will last almost indefinably and the whole bottle stays usable to its end. I bought the needles on EBay for very little, a five pack will last a lifetime.
As you see I glue the planks in about 2" - 3" lengths using the needle to put a line of glue under them as I go. I was careful with the upper planks as they won't be painted. I use white glue when I put the fillets in as it's easier to wipe clean. I also use white glue for the first planking and most other wooden parts
I continued the planking but now from the keel upwards, again with no plan other than keeping things neat, it took less time than I’d expected to complete, just three more days, albeit very long ones.
Newly laid planks prior to sanding never look particularly good especially in a sharp photograph but I am very pleased with the result so far.
This shows the needle after use
This shows it burning off
This shows after the burn
This shows how I apply the cyno
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It's all fun and games until the whole bottle goes up like a Roman candle 
. Maybe pull the needle out first???
. Maybe pull the needle out first???
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Hi Paul, I can see your concern but when you see it in practice it burns very gently and doesn’t give me any cause for concern. Anyway I’ve been trained to lob grenades so it would liven up the householdIt's all fun and games until the whole bottle goes up like a Roman candle
...
Good morning Ken. Glad to have you back. I always enjoy your build and logs. Cheers Grant
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Hey Ken,
That looks like planking. Really nicely done. I know the glue you're working with. I use it too. You're right, it sticks to everything, which is why it's so good! I'm also a bit careful with the needle. I use plastic nozzles. They're long and you can cut them off when they get stuck. But I've also tried flaring. I've always had a strange feeling about it, though!
That looks like planking. Really nicely done. I know the glue you're working with. I use it too. You're right, it sticks to everything, which is why it's so good! I'm also a bit careful with the needle. I use plastic nozzles. They're long and you can cut them off when they get stuck. But I've also tried flaring. I've always had a strange feeling about it, though!
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Hello. Again thanks to everyone that has commented and given me their very encouraging support.
The following pictures show how the hull progressed. After a good sanding I was very pleased with the finish, it was better than I’d expected and it had been worth the effort I’d put in. You don’t know what you can achieve until you try.
I made up the substantial stand that had been provided, not the usual ply but mahogany.
I cut out the grooves for the stem, keel and sternpost, made them up and fitted them. I'd not done it like this before but had a good feeling that it was the way to go. I'm delighted at the result and don't think that I could have had as neat a result if I had tried to butt the planks against the prow and stern.
I decided to stain the hull to give the wood a slightly warmer hue than the dull walnut . I rubbed in some light teak stain, this gave it a slight honey coloured tone a bit like a dark pear, it also brought out the grain so again I was happy. I then gave it a coat of sanding sealer so that the nice surface didn’t get any stains I wouldn’t be able to remove later.
I was initially going to paint the lower hull to perhaps hide any imperfections in the planking but I was so happy with it the way it turned out that I decided a poly finish was the way to go.
I forgot to mention that this thing is big, working on it is like wrestling with a Labrador.
The following pictures show how the hull progressed. After a good sanding I was very pleased with the finish, it was better than I’d expected and it had been worth the effort I’d put in. You don’t know what you can achieve until you try.
I made up the substantial stand that had been provided, not the usual ply but mahogany.
I cut out the grooves for the stem, keel and sternpost, made them up and fitted them. I'd not done it like this before but had a good feeling that it was the way to go. I'm delighted at the result and don't think that I could have had as neat a result if I had tried to butt the planks against the prow and stern.
I decided to stain the hull to give the wood a slightly warmer hue than the dull walnut . I rubbed in some light teak stain, this gave it a slight honey coloured tone a bit like a dark pear, it also brought out the grain so again I was happy. I then gave it a coat of sanding sealer so that the nice surface didn’t get any stains I wouldn’t be able to remove later.
I was initially going to paint the lower hull to perhaps hide any imperfections in the planking but I was so happy with it the way it turned out that I decided a poly finish was the way to go.
I forgot to mention that this thing is big, working on it is like wrestling with a Labrador.
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Hi Gig. I also use those nozzles sometimes, a few pounds gets you a hundred off EBay and they work great. I find some cynos' clog up the needle too quickly so I resort to these plastic ones, but I prefer the needle as its more rigid.
Hi Ken. That looks quite impressive.
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Again welcome to my build and thanks for your interest and comments.
I was nearing the part of the build that I was dreading the most, the stern gallery support and the galleries themselves. Until I started I didn’t know how I was actually going to get it done. In the kit there were a couple of pre shaped pieces of wood, the third and thinnest was missing so I made one up off the plan. Remember there are no instructions, I’ve shown the plans for this area and I think you’ll agree they’re not really a great help, there was a lot of head scratching but I eventually managed. The pictures show the sequence, I later found that this was the easy bit!
I was nearing the part of the build that I was dreading the most, the stern gallery support and the galleries themselves. Until I started I didn’t know how I was actually going to get it done. In the kit there were a couple of pre shaped pieces of wood, the third and thinnest was missing so I made one up off the plan. Remember there are no instructions, I’ve shown the plans for this area and I think you’ll agree they’re not really a great help, there was a lot of head scratching but I eventually managed. The pictures show the sequence, I later found that this was the easy bit!
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Again thanks for following and giving your likes.
Following on from yesterdays post: I completed the lower transom support. Before glueing into place, it needed quite a bit of sanding to get its final correct shape and fit. Some filler was needed, then a coat of sealer. I really should have left painting and fitting the castings until much later but I was impatient to see how it would look. I painted the support black, shaped the castings, painted them gold and attached, it gave me the wow factor and the encouragement to get this very ornate area done.
Following on from yesterdays post: I completed the lower transom support. Before glueing into place, it needed quite a bit of sanding to get its final correct shape and fit. Some filler was needed, then a coat of sealer. I really should have left painting and fitting the castings until much later but I was impatient to see how it would look. I painted the support black, shaped the castings, painted them gold and attached, it gave me the wow factor and the encouragement to get this very ornate area done.
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Love it! What an elegant look!
Very nice build.
Use glue nozzles for CA. Cost virtually nothing online. When they clog just nip the tip off.
Remember that CA should be thrown away after three months opened. I occassionaly use the same type as you, but have never got through a bottle............
Use glue nozzles for CA. Cost virtually nothing online. When they clog just nip the tip off.
Remember that CA should be thrown away after three months opened. I occassionaly use the same type as you, but have never got through a bottle............
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Hello and again welcome.
Todays update is the rudder and more of the gallery. I shaped the rudder according to the plans and scribed it. The hinges and pintles are cast and were quite chunky, they were obviously not as scaled as PE. but I rather liked them, they suited the model. I filed the bolt heads down a bit as they were too proud, I blackened them and glued them to the rudder and hull.
Next I selected the lower set of cast windows, I had already filed open the glazed area in preparation, I painted and glazed them using a clear glue before fitting them into place. After fitting the cast trim above the windows I planked the next level. I couldn't figure out why the middle deck extended as far back as it did as it would prevent the next level of gallery from fitting so I decided to just remove it, it turned out to be the correct decision.
I was expecting to be able to shape the castings around complex curves and for it to stay flat against the surface like photo etch but it's a different beast, it's quality lies in its depth and rich detail but it should not be viewed from too close up to see it at it's best.
It was all coming along quite well for now!!!
Todays update is the rudder and more of the gallery. I shaped the rudder according to the plans and scribed it. The hinges and pintles are cast and were quite chunky, they were obviously not as scaled as PE. but I rather liked them, they suited the model. I filed the bolt heads down a bit as they were too proud, I blackened them and glued them to the rudder and hull.
Next I selected the lower set of cast windows, I had already filed open the glazed area in preparation, I painted and glazed them using a clear glue before fitting them into place. After fitting the cast trim above the windows I planked the next level. I couldn't figure out why the middle deck extended as far back as it did as it would prevent the next level of gallery from fitting so I decided to just remove it, it turned out to be the correct decision.
I was expecting to be able to shape the castings around complex curves and for it to stay flat against the surface like photo etch but it's a different beast, it's quality lies in its depth and rich detail but it should not be viewed from too close up to see it at it's best.
It was all coming along quite well for now!!!