• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

Saint Philippe 1693 by OlegM

so the silicon has to be able to sustain 200--300 C.
The silicone molding materials I use are from Polytek are only good to about 230 C. I have not used Weicon 300 but it is supposed to be good for temperatures of 300C. Weicon HT 300 red silicone is highly flexible, with an elongation at break of 500% so might work for a single piece mold.
Allan
 
That's interesting. However, I see a difficulty in making vents and then extracting the part with the metal that has filled those vents and now is attached to the model in the form of thin strings
 
I continue to fight the running rigging color, which on the finished model appears too light, especially on the photos, almost white, contrary to how the threads look in the cones.
On the photo below:
Bonhomme Richard, had tera color 722 and scala color 633
Royal William had tera and scala color 464
Saint Philippe will have tera color 444 and scala color 180

20250528_1545351.jpg
 
Last edited:
Don't you think that color no 180 in sunlight is too navy/blue? Black is colors 000 or 999
 
Don't you think that color no 180 in sunlight is too navy/blue? Black is colors 000 or 999

color 180 for scala is not blue, it's light brown. On the photo it's the cone rightmost, the one that is closer to us. Tera 444 is behind it
Black (000) is used for standing rigging, the single cone in the front, no change here among all my models
 
Last edited:
You're right, my fault. Instead of color 180 it displays me a navy blue thread with 180tex gradation. I have other colors, so i think its blue. Good threads.
 
Black (000) is used for standing rigging, the single cone in the front
When standing rigging was treated, wouldn't it be more the color of pine tar (dark brown or grayish brown). I don't think they used coal tar (black) on the ships you listed. Stockholm tar and pine tar from the Americas probably varied in color but I don't think any of them was really black.
Allan
 
When standing rigging was treated, wouldn't it be more the color of pine tar (dark brown or grayish brown). I don't think they used coal tar (black) on the ships you listed. Stockholm tar and pine tar from the Americas probably varied in color but I don't think any of them was really black.
Allan

oh yeah, that's a known fact. Black threads is my personal choice (for now)
 
I have finally casted all the cannons...
You know, usually, when you tried something once, it ended not so bad, and then you think - ok, so next time will be better, I have expereince now. Ah no! It is the opposite... I have to admit that my cannons this time turned out to be worse, not better than my Royal William cannons.

20250531_100122.jpg20250531_100156.jpg20250622_151315.jpg20250622_160051.jpg20250622_160055.jpg20250621_121117.jpg20250622_151236.jpg20250621_122452.jpg20250622_162442.jpg
 
And now I can show my color scheme. Decorations will be in pear.
The sample is devided in 3 sections, from left to right - tung oil, danish oil, teak oil. All three sections then treated with bithumen varnish.
And yes, I do not see any eventual differences between the 3 sections. The oils are slightly different in terms of viscosity, smell, drying time, but the final result is still the same. Teak oil smells fish for me, but danish oil smell is the worst. Tung oil is the thickest and dries the longest.

After oil:

20250527_182751.jpg

After bithumen:

20250622_162015.jpg

On the next photos you can see how the pink hornbeam changes color before and after treatment. These photos also at different lighting:

20250622_162058.jpg20250622_162159.jpg20250622_162239.jpg
 
I have finally casted all the cannons...
You know, usually, when you tried something once, it ended not so bad, and then you think - ok, so next time will be better, I have expereince now. Ah no! It is the opposite... I have to admit that my cannons this time turned out to be worse, not better than my Royal William cannons.

View attachment 527577View attachment 527578View attachment 527579View attachment 527580View attachment 527581View attachment 527582View attachment 527583View attachment 527584View attachment 527585
To me, these guns look just unbelievable, period.
 
And now I can show my color scheme. Decorations will be in pear.
The sample is devided in 3 sections, from left to right - tung oil, danish oil, teak oil. All three sections then treated with bithumen varnish.
And yes, I do not see any eventual differences between the 3 sections. The oils are slightly different in terms of viscosity, smell, drying time, but the final result is still the same. Teak oil smells fish for me, but danish oil smell is the worst. Tung oil is the thickest and dries the longest.

After oil:

View attachment 527882

After bithumen:

View attachment 527883

On the next photos you can see how the pink hornbeam changes color before and after treatment. These photos also at different lighting:

View attachment 527884View attachment 527885View attachment 527886
Thank you for sharing the result. I am doing something similar. And I have a couple of questions. What oil do you use, namely the brands of all three oils. And how do you dilute it, or do you apply it pure? What bitumen do you use and approximately how do you dilute it? I saw a difference in my experiments and I liked the tung one more, although it dries longer.

Alert 988.jpg

Here's my color scheme. The signature on the Alert link goes into detail about it.

I blackened everything this weekend. Don't ask why middledeck cannon is different color - I don't know...

View attachment 528189View attachment 528190View attachment 528191View attachment 528192View attachment 528193
I know how you do it, but could you describe the process in a little more detail? I think many people are interested in this. Copper sulfate, and what do you then blacken and polish with? And why do you think the blackening has a matte finish?

How long do you keep the parts in the solution (медный купорос?) and after that, how do you blacken and polish them?

Very good work, I always watch you!
 
Last edited:
Ok, one by one :)
Here are the oils that I bought:

On my previous models I was using tung oil from the russian store that I bought long ago.
I apply oils undiluted.

For the bithumen, it's the one that I bought from russian store long ago, before the war. I still have half the bottle. I dilute it with white spirit "as required" - just by looking at the resulting color and adjusting on the go

Now for the cannons...
I actually described my entire technology in my Royal William thread, so I didn't want to repeat the same thing twice. Especially since this time nothing went as expected and as it did last time. Nothing worked out normally. I don't know, maybe someone cursed my guns.
I'll start with the fact that there was something wrong with my white spirit. Before copper plating, I bathed the quarterdeck guns in it first. But instead of degreasing them, it created some kind of hydrophobic film on the guns, which made the copper to plate in multiple little spots. I struggled with them for a very long time, but eventually I copper plated them - and they acquired a very rich, beautiful, durable copper color - you can see this in the photo above - on the napkin on the right.
So I haven't bathed the other guns in this strange white spirit. Usually guns acquire a dark brown color a few seconds after they are taken out of the solution (on the napkin on the left), but these quarterdeck ones kept their beautiful color no matter what. I thought: what a beauty, they will probably blacken instantly and beautifully. No such luck. The blackening liquid reacted to them with extreme difficulty. It took me about 2 hours to blacken them - I took them out, washed, dried, sanded, blackened again, washed again, blackened again, and in the end I just left them in the solution for about an hour.

With other guns, which I no longer bathed in the white spirit, it was not easier. Nothing wanted to blacken or copper plate in a human way. With previous experience (Royal William) everything went without a single problem. But here ... blacken, take out, wash, blacken, sand, wash, blacken.... either the blackening was coming off, or the copper plating was coming off.... I completely lost count of how long I blackened them and for how many times, and what I did to them in between.
Eventually I covered them with oil, thinking they would become darker - but when the oil dried, they remained the same color as they were before, except that they were now covered with a film that no longer allowed the blackening solution to work. So I sanded them again... at the very end, I sanded the guns directly on liquid oil and left them like that

So despite the fact that I was using everything exactly as on Royal William, from casting alloy to blackening liquid (except for white spirit which this time was a different brand), nothing went the same.

P.S. When I say "I sanded" I mean I used rotating brass brush in my rotary tool
 
Last edited:
You know, usually, when you tried something once, it ended not so bad, and then you think - ok, so next time will be better, I have expereince now. Ah no! It is the opposite... I have to admit that my cannons this time turned out to be worse, not better than my Royal William cannons.
Murphey's third law of advanced skill-sets states... "Past experience doesn’t prevent future failures—it only gives you the swagger to realize even 'greater' failures with much more flair!" ;)
 
Back
Top