SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 in 1/64 PoB by Iterum

Hello friends,

here my brave step foreward into wood to create the centerboard. The centerboard will stand upright over the keel with 100mms long grooves rectangular towards the keel.
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As I tolf toyou before I added the 100mm line line parallel to the upper rabbet line and can now saw the grooves to add the frames.

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The frames do fit with a 1/10mm what granularity I can get with my rough tools I do have got in my workshop.

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I wasn't able to copy the stem's rabbet line and will do it by gluing a photocopy onto the board and saw it out by hand and plan it and to the detailwork by sandpaper. Is this really one of my good ideas?

The building of the frames will need dome morebrain worl as I need some line "above the hull" what will reassemble the building board on what the hull will grow upside-down... never done this in practice.

In Jean Boudriot's book LA JACINTHE (Paris 1989) I found some pictures showing this method:

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and making totally clear that the houl mustn't touch the building board at all

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Due to this photography I decided to "implement" the 100mm line to level the frames all in a line by gluing littel wooden wedges/blocks onto the 100mm line on the centerboard coming from below meeting the frame's boxes coming from above.

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By this I may get a perfectly leveled construction from frames onto the centerboard - hopefully
. Am I right with this?


Or does anybody our you experienced builders does have got some better suggestions...
...ideas more close to the practical side of the work?

Thanks for your interest and support.

Edit:Sick

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And certainly the levelblock must be fittet above on the center board as the frames were pushed in from below... stupidity can be soooo simple. Sorryfor this!
 
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Hello friends I have run into serious troubles and I have to admit, that did not have developed the skills I do need for this baroque threedecker project. I am affraid to fuin all the prepairing work as my work on the bandsaw was awfull and I will kill that centerboard immediately. I did recognice this this night I am well equipped with theory but didn't own the nedded skills in the wood crafting work.

So I will pause here to archive/store the SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 with great care.
 
Dear Maarten, dear Nigel,

thanks for the motivation I think it is a huge amount of money - in the plans I invested in ink copies nearly €400. And I am affraid to kill the hole project by my doing wrong.

So I think it is the better decision to keep my hands off this model to secure what I have had invested, due to make a smaller model before.

It is not given up only on hold..
 
I started with the Bonhomme Richard in scratch in 1/48 in 2018. Without any experience in scratchbuilding and before i has only terminated my 70 Euro Gjoa from Constructo.
It was to early and every detail, every corner, was a big frustration. But as well every step is a lession learned for other things. I interupted the building because the qualitity of the parts wasn´t how i needed. After this i started with my La Belle. Everything smaller. But with a very good preparation. More research, read a lot of buildingslog from dear colleagues. The Belle was a one and only flow. Without any big problems i build this project until today. I did a lot of errors, i testetd a many many techniques to optimize my workaraound.
Now i feel very well prepared to restart the Bonhomme Richard. I know how to start, the steps, the corners, where are the difficults.
I think everything has his time (Alles zu seiner Zeit). But as well, the things dont will be better if you dont care them.
 
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Heinrich,

I think it's a good decision to stop now and restart your model later with more experience. Try La Belle of the Rochefort first. These two projects and some other small french ships are in my opinion a good starting point for you. (If others read this and interesting in English ships, you have to search for some English small ships). Do not to much in historic research if your intention is to get experience in ship modelling. I know what than happens.
 
Ahoy!

Iterum@ I agree 100% with AnobiumPunctatum. Try a simpler model at the beginning. Then you'll return to the model St. Philippe.
If you still encounter difficulties in construction of St. Philippe, we will try to help you.
 
Pardon me if I am wrong but...
As it seem that you were going to built a planked on bulkhead version of the ship, and this is your first try at it from scratch, I would suggest getting a set of plan to build a fairly simple ship: kit plans should be available for you to choose from, like some old fishing vessel or such.
Any of the planked on frame ships are going to require some experience (that is what everyone says), some fancy tools (that is also what everyone says) as well as quite a bit of patience (that one is true).
If you pick a vessel with some carvings, make sure they are few and simple.
No need to start with some fancy ship with lots of guns (if at all), many decks, etc.....
G.
 
CASE IN POINT ME, look at my log of the Le Rochefort, from the beginnin, especially when it came to FRAMES i was told that it was to difficult for me to shelve it do small no mention of scratch, just do small, ENTER NIGEL, GILLES, MAARTEN, CHRISTIAN, LOOK AT THE LATEST FRAMES PICTURES after so many years I FINALLY FOUND A WAY TO DO THE FRAMES CORRECTLY FOR ANY MODEL NOW, oh I ALSO HAVE A LOT OF $$$$ INVESTED IN THIS, BUT IN MY HEART AND BONES I KNEW I COULD DO THIS I JUST WOULD NOT GIVE UP NPERIOD THE MORE THEY TOLD I DID NOT HAVE THE SKILLS THE MORE DETERMINED I WAS, NOT SAYING THAT DOWN THE ROAD I WILL NOT HAVE PROBLEMS I SURE WILL BUT WITH HELP I CAN DO IT THIS ALSO GAVE ME SELF CONFIDENCE, AS TO THE SAINT PHILIPPE, I AGREE WITH THE COMENTS I WOULD NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS ONE RIGHT NOW, IT IS WAY ABOVE MY SKILL LEVEL, BUT I WOULD DEFINATLY STICK TO A SCRATCH BUILD FROM ANCRE, THERE ARE SOME THAT ARE JUST RIGHT FOR SOMEONE LIKE ME OR YOU,,,,,,, Le ROCHFORT, N.S.del ROSARIO FELUCCA 1759,, AND A NEAT LITTLE BUILD OF A HARBOR DREDGE, BY GERARD, i I AM SATISFIED RIGHT NOW IF I STOPPED AT THIS POINT I HAVE LEARNED MUCH MORE THEN I ANTICIPATED, ALSO I AM BURNED WITH BEING A LITTLE BIT DYSLEX, SO PEOPLE THOUGHT WHY IS HE ASKING THE SAME QUESTION OVER, AND OVER AGAIN NOW THEY KNOW,,,,, one of my big, REAL BIG PROBLEMS WAS A JIG FOR THE FRAMES THAT SOLUTION HAS BEEN FOUND WITH KRIS THE POLISH CO. DO NOT LET ANY ONE TELL YOU YOU CAN NOT DO SOMETHING THEY SAY POF IS FOR MORE ADVANCED MODELERS THAT IS (BS) i took on a POF build the CAUSTIC from THE LUMBERYARD, that was almost 8 years ago now that is alol I want to do,,,,, one other thing to keep in mind is these are FRENCH SHIPS, THE FRAMING I DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISH, OR DUTCH,, and the ANCRE plans take some getting used to, get the FROLIC BOOK, AND THEB 74 GUN SHIP VOL.1 YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY, ask some of the people i mentioned if they would lend a hand to you if THEY HAVE THE TIME, SORRY FOR THE LONG THREAD, JUST DO NOT LISTEN TO THE ONES TELLING YOU NO,, and if you do not try you will never KNOW. HOPE THIS HELPS Don
 
Thank you very very much to all of you for these advising. I am staying with the SAINT PHILIPPE and the sister as a project and do some drawing and research from time to time.

I changed my Avatar to the ultimative goal of ROYAL LOUIS 1668 with her figures ensamble by Puget.

But taking your positive criticism serious I did have bought the

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TERROR by Occre to rebuild as EREBUS to do a bit of variation instead of building her o. o. b. hoping this will work.

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The HMS FLY (swan class) by Victory models. So I do comefirst time in contact to the standard scale 1/64 so I hope to get a feeling for the scale.

And then there is a combination of an Ancre book and a CAF kit of the

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schooner JACINTHE so I can build her twice as kit and in a lightly changes version with a enclosed bulkwalk aften an Edmund Paris drawing.


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I also got HMS ENTERPRIZE 1774 by Shipyard as a cardmodel limited edition.

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I want to build the kit as the/after the Marshall paintings.

So my first scratch build will be my

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1854 whaling schooner AGATE of Provincetown to come foreward. So I have to combine the plans of two autors.

But back to SAINT PHILIPPE 1693!

THE 1/92 HELLER REBUILD

As I have been tild the best you can do to the outaged Heller kit is to rebuilt it as a SAINT PHILIPPE - I followed this advice. So there is also the TONNANT/SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 rebuild out of the Heller SOLEIL ROYAL in 1/92 in it's recent state of build. and three other Heller SR kits in a pile... he hull is enlarged in breadth and the photocopies are redurced to 1/92.

The best done pice of this project till today is the stand for the model.
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I managed to give it a wooden surface by using 60 and 60grain sandpaper.

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Cutting grooves in the plastic by a knife to imitate rough dry wood.

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I am still struggeling with the forge hammered washers and the hand made foursided nuts - the are to camoflage the modern spax screws keeping the stand on its board.

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The hole construction will fit into my Ikea self system by being less than 800×300mm in base measurements.
So there is the stand already upgrated from the late 60th modern style orange plastic to a kind of wood.

So I may go with her as TONNANT 1693 being quite free in the decoration as there are very little information left and I try to be a bit more creative in the layout of the teansoms story. The figure head is come to us in a scetch added by Edmund Paris onto the drawn plan by hand. And the later TONNANT is there as a model in Rochefort... so as usually the poplar carvings and figures were recycled on the following ship there may be a bit of evidence to the idea using the smaller and later TONNANT as a "artic blueprint" for the sister of SAINT PHILIPPE both baptisted in 1693.

This is the planing for after the removal.
I tbe removal I do work on

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the LEUDO VINACCIERE so I stay with modelling during this starting of a new live.

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As the scary scale is 1/72 I do come onto near the end of my eyesight.


From time to time I will step in here and add some new experiences and findings.

THE 1/64 PROJECT


Today I got the fact that the LF/CWL is 1,8° or 1,9° falling the stem.

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So I do think about finding the point of pivoting and change the CWL completly as the carvings after are massivly under CWL. Or I take the stem point of the CWL/stem crossing and do draw this line as CWL in a slight wedge to the original plan on frostpaper.

What isthe right wayto do do? Lifting the hull by sinking the CWL or pivoting it?
 
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Hello friends so let's start with a model of trail the EREBUS from the OcCre TERROR kit
to improove my woodworking skills so the here the link for the build:

HMS EREBUS 1826 from OcCre TERROR kit

Hello guys, due to the fascinating Franklin Expedition story I reached the icey shore of all these books about the strangly collapsed Franklin expedition from a german manga towards deep scientific books during the last few month. It all started in summer with this NMM booklet. I don't...
shipsofscale.com

So as we are a quartett of SAINT PHILIPPE builders in all scales 1/36 1/48 1/64 and 1/72... we should found a Group build. :)
What do you think about it?

Best wishes from Berlin,
Christian Heinrich
 
Hello, I so Look in Here Reading from time to time and do get das. And as CRI-CRI is so very successfull with

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his SAINT PHILIPPE building her in 1/72 in wood and is able to photograph her in such a
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beautyfull way in the bright afternoon sun...

I really got jealous and angy in myself.

So I do have decided to try out a mock-upbuild in card board to tryout my 1/64 copies and skill for not too much money in a first step.

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What I have to figure out is to go back to the lines plan to get figured out what is to be done here. And how to get this big cardboard pices stabilisized to a working hull...
I do think about my hundreds of removal card board boxes... Every one does have got one pair of big side pices and smaller pices to be reused as bulkheads... Standing rectangular on a CenterLine plywooden long CL or middel board with sawn notches for the bulkheads.
What do you think about this idea??? Sounds much too crazy?
 
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If I am going to building the inner hull from cardboard I will have to remember the thickness of the woodenplanks to be added to the hull. Now I do think about several layers of paper stripes to get this thickness. I recognized it looking at the stem:

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And as all the gunports onnthe hullmodel are in the easy svenary closed there is no need for openings without the

anchor cable holes
staircases
mastholes
gratings

If I do went to a more complex solution with open gun port lids (with or without guns)


IMG_20210820_124220.jpgit is something completly different as I need to imitate the hull's thickness and a bit of inner space.
Here also is the proof for only two gunports under the transom: Imagine two eight to ten men crews crowded arround AND between these guns...
You do agreed with me?
 
Hello Friends!

I found my wing folder with all these DIN A3 sheets of the bulkheads - and my mastercopy, too. It sneakingly slipped down beside the planshelf... (Otherwise I would have payed some €50 for reducing the DIN A2 sheet in the same copy shop in the very same ink plotter to get a most close result to the lost original.)

Really happy I am as even the higher stern side "Ar" plans do fit to the boxed side's measurements...

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This means I can get good use of the money invested into these hundreds of boxes from moving my libary.

So from now on I do have to deal again with the waterline problematic and copy them so I get a new stash of correct drawings. An I do need finding some ways to get the hole construction stabilisized so it can be cladded with a surface and been sandingable, too.

I forgot that the grating has got an opening to lift the main yard, too. So I have to figure out also how to work arround with this new "troublemakler".
 
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