Saint-Philippe 1693-POF to the Monograph by Jean-Claude Lemineur by NMBrook-1/36

Many Thanks for the last discussion about the different band saws -
I am also planning to buy my first bandsaw, so these opinions and your experiences are highly interesting and helpful for me.
 
Thankyou Marc.

With such a big commitment to so many hours with limited amount of spare time to do this and other things,I feel I have the capacity to do just one model as in depth as this and do it justice.
The amount of time to produce just one frame due to all the milling work is preposterous compared to normal sistered framing.However once the framing is complete and final fairing carried out,I think the build will gain momentum.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Hi Nigel,
Is the lack of perpendicularity between the frames and the keel a problem? How have you managed?
Thanks in advance.
 
Esta lleva hojas de 2240mm, hay sierras de cinta más pequeñas, pero también os comento que los motores son muy pobres, todo depende de lo que vayáis a cortar, y otra cosa más puedes tener la mejor sierra de cinta del mercado pero si no tienes una buena hoja no tienes nada que hacer y la máquina sufrirá mucho,, hay una casa en Inglaterra que vende las mejores hojas del mercado a día de hoy, tengo experiencia con el tema de las hojas, y hojas buenas hay pocas el problema de esta casa es que solo vende en el Reino Unido, yo por suerte pude hacer un pedido hace años, 2-2x-305x100.png
 
Si entras en su página, explica todo referente a cortes de hojas, tpi, grosor de las maderas, ect...... Son unos fueras de serie, para mi la mejor hoja que tienen para maderas como el peral y el boj es la súper tuff premium 3/4 tpi, es increíble como corta todas las maderas duras esta hoja, porque tiene los dientes intercalados de 3 tpi y la 4 tpi en la misma hoja, nada que envidiar a las hojas americanas, es como comprar un coche Mercedes, cuando lo pruebas ya no quieres otro, yo he cortado tablones en la sierra de cinta makita de 14cm y como si nada, y no tiene casi desperdicio de madera espero que os sirva de ayuda, si podéis comprar estas hojas, deja la madera casi Lisa 16557938344544874220679233474472.jpg16557939498824625264452548806522.jpg
 
Cuanto más ancha es la hoja más sufre la máquina, para una sierra de cinta como la maquita la hoja de 1/2pulgada 12,7mm es más que suficiente, corta sola y sin ningún esfuerzo, bueno encantado de ayudaros, que paséis un buen día todos
 
Summary of Mecanizados Translation:

If you enter its page, it explains everything related to cuts of leaves, tpi, thickness of the woods, ect...... To me they are the best for woods such as pear and boxwood. It is incredible how well the super premium tuff 3/4 tpi cuts all the hardwoods, because it has the teeth interspersed with 3 tpi and the 4 tpi in the same sheet. I am not detracting from the American blades, but it's like buying a Mercedes car. Once you have tried it, you will no longer want another. I have cut planks with the Makita band saw of 14cm as if nothing, and there is almost no waste of wood. I hope it helps you,.

The wider the blade the more the machine will struggle. For a band saw the 12.7mm blade is more than enough, it cuts without any effort. I am happy to help you, that you have a good day all.

Here you have the link, I imagine that some of you already know this brand.

@Mecanizados
 
José_B said:
Hi Nigel,
Is the lack of perpendicularity between the frames and the keel a problem? How have you managed?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Hi Jose

Not a problem as such just something else to factor in.Working from an imaginary set out line I drew on the framing plan above the top of the frames that IS perpendicular to them is working well

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks Mecanizados for your advice.I will try these blades when I buy some replacements.I have to say the genuine Record Power blades are miles ahead of what I have been using.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Catching up! Great work on this big model, Nigel. I love the hull framing!

I’m curious as to why you chose 1:36 scale? That works out to 1/3” = 1’. At 1:32 scale, 3/8” = 1’. Is it a metric conversion thing? 1:32 is easier working with imperial measurements.
 
Thanks Dave.Simple answer, that is what scale the drawings were available in off the shelf.I work in Metric but that really didn't have any influence as I am simply transposing measurements I take from the drawings.
Things may be different had I been developing framing and working to scantlings, then again though, that would have been French Feet,different to the English so things would have been just as confusing:rolleyes:

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
DocBlake said:
Catching up! Great work on this big model, Nigel. I love the hull framing!

I’m curious as to why you chose 1:36 scale? That works out to 1/3” = 1’. At 1:32 scale, 3/8” = 1’. Is it a metric conversion thing? 1:32 is easier working with imperial measurements.
Click to expand...
The scale 1:36 is in Europe a standard scale
Here and excerpt of the three different scales for the Saint Phillippe directly available from ancre - In the table shown are the dimensions of the model in the different scales

- > fully rigged she will be 2,1 meter long, 1,80 meter heigh and the yards would be 84cm long !!!!!!!

Unbenannt.JPG
 
NMBROOK said:
The positions of these mortices is drawn in the side elevation.Note the ends of these are perpendicular to the outer face of the frame not horizontal.Each one will have to be measured vertically from the body framing plan in relation to the keel and transferred onto the cross section of each individual frame.These will then be drawn across perpendicular on the frame cross section.The measured height is only true with respect to the mortices position on the outer face of the frame.
Because the framing plan cannot be used to establish the mortices on the bottom of the hull(it is a side elevation) the flooring plan will have to be used.This time measurements will be taken from the centreline bow to stern on the plan.The difference is that these will be the position of the mortices on the inside face of the frames as this is a view looking down on the vessels structure.Again the ends of these mortices will have to be drawn in perpendicular to the outer profile of the floor timbers.
I plan to transfer these positions once I have had copies made as I wish to use possibly red to illustrate them.If everything was a black line,there would just be too many black lines possibly resulting in error due to confusion.Some pics of areas of both framing and flooring plan showing the many mortice and tenon joints present on this vessels framing

Kind Regards

Nigel

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