School for model ship building

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

The drawings being created here are based on the original Hahn drawings so the first change is the framing.

Here is the original framing plan which looks like Hahn used the equal room and space system.



i changed the sided dimension of the framing based on archaeological findings on two colonial era shipwrecks. Like all ships built the framing and spacing varied in size so i took an average. All the frames are still in the same location all i did was make the sided dimension larger. This way i can still use the original frame drawings.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

zooming in on another part of the master drawing



the original frames were traced, i only traced one side which will be mirrored to create a complete frame.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

after tracing the frames i created a bodyplan the one on the right is from the frame tracings the one on the left has been redone.



the reason for redoing the bodyplan is because the original had frames that are out of line, you can see where they are twisted and tangled.



the final corrected bodyplan where no two frame lines overlap or touch one another

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Way back in the early days of the hobby 1960ish you only found model ship kits that had a solid carved hull or what was then called plank on frame but were actually plank on bulkhead. Actual plank on frame ship models were only seen in museums and not yet introduced into the hobby. Drawing out all the frames was at the time esoteric knowledge know to a select few. There were articles and books on the subject but for hobbyists they were far to technical, besides that, you would need to be somewhat capable in drafting. Back in the days i would attend every NRG conference which was the pantheon of the all-time great builders. I got to spend hours with builder like Hanh, Bruckshaw. Takakjian and many others. Both Hahn and Bruckshaw were draftsmen and engineers by trade so they were experienced draftsmen. Hahn knew how to draw it was a matter of fully understanding the hull if a ship. Talking to Portia when she was working on the Essex as far as drafting, within the ballpark was close enough. The true shaping of the hull was done after it was built. The plans you get today of Harold Hahn ship have been redrawn, corrected and done over and over to work out all the errors or a close as you can get by hand. Searching the Hahn library i found only two first draft plan drawings the Half Moon and the Sir Edward Hawk. These two were never refined into a set of modeling plans.
Looking at the midship frame of the Sir Edward Hawk the outside drawing in red is how Harold drew it. The inside black line is the actual shape of the frame. In the end by building a hull from oversize rough frame drawings and shaping the hull as one piece produces satisfactory results.



At some point in time along came a group who's building philosophy was let's make it as hard as we can on ourselves. No jigs to hold things in place, no frame blanks, no drawing and cutting frames oversize and shape the hull later. Everything has to be built like a real ship and the same methods of building up each frame futtock by futtock and setting the finished frame on the keel. For me i am like electricity and take the path of least resistance. For others it is a personal challenge, in the end the results are the same.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

the inside and outside profiles are being refined and the stern is projected from the profile.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

The top 2 lines are the location of the original jig. You can see the space between the mid section and the jig is quite a bit. The second set of lines will be the location of the jig. To shorten the extensions on the frames from frame 18 forward i spit the jig in tow pieces held together by the square pieces.



to draw the jig i drew a line across the tops of the extensions, copied it and rotated it, Next i moved the line center to the end point of the jig center. doing this with each frome gives the distance from the center to the jig notch.

 

[Peter Gutterman]

Overall, a fascinating and instructive log.

 

[Kazak]

While you're awaiting unpacking your shop (I feel your pain! ), you might want to pick up a few books on wooden ship building in general and modeling in particular to read in your spare time and to save as valuable reference works. If you are interested in British Admiralty vessels of the Eighteenth Century (and American, for that matter - these being "close enough for government work"), you'll find any of the below volumes of great interest:

Building the Wooden Fighting Ship by James Moore and James W. Dodds

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https://www.amazon.com/Building-Wooden-Fighting-James-Dodds/dp/1784387525

Wooden Warship Construction - A History in Ship Models by Brian Lavery

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https://www.amazon.com/Wooden-Warship-Construction-History-Models/dp/139902485X

This volume, a quality paperback reprint of a contemporary work, addresses early 20th Century wooden shipbuilding practices:

Wooden Ship-Building by Charles Desmond

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https://www.amazon.com/Wooden-Ship-building-Charles-Desmond/dp/1019378697

If you are serious about building, particularly from scratch, anything from the broad spectrum of British Admiralty sailing warships, which for all practical purposes comes rather close to United States practices over the same time span, the "trifecta" is the below set of three volumes which, on their own, would suffice as a pretty good basic reference library on the subject. (Published separately, they were intended as a three-volume set and share the same format.) They can be a bit pricey, but these are large "coffee table" sized high quality hardback books that are chock-full of information and written by the recognized authorities on the subject today. They're widely available on the used market and if you shop around, some real bargain prices can be found. As they saying goes, "You can take these ones to the bank."

The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 by James Lees
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https://www.amazon.com/Masting-Rigging-English-Ships-1625-1860/dp/0870219480

The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery

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https://www.amazon.com/Arming-Fitting-English-Ships-1600-1815/dp/0870210092

The Construction and Fitting of English Man of War, 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin

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https://www.amazon.com/Arming-Fitting-English-Ships-1600-1815/dp/0870210092

For those who are interested in the why of shipbuilding in the age of sail, I haven't come across a better book than Seamanship in the Age of Sail. This huge compendium lays out in readily understandable terms not only how the ships were rigged but how much sail was set in each condition of wind and sea, how the various maneuvers were carried out, and the intricacies of operations like reefing sails or 'catting' an anchor. All of these details, known from firsthand experience by those familiar with the operation of full-sized square-rigged vessels but of which a "lay" modeler is uninformed, must be known if a truly accurate model is to be built. The devil is in the details that give real "life" to a model, details which the kit instructions rarely provide. Moreover, an understanding of how the ships we model actually worked makes modeling them accurately far easier. Few modelers in this day and age have had the opportunity to climb ratlines and stand on a footrope to furl a sail in a blow (not recommended if you can avoid it! ,) hang a coil of line on a belaying pin, tack or wear a square-rigged vessel, or even spend any time under sail in "blue water." This book makes up for that. It's fascinating reading with lots of good illustrations, too! I must say it isn't inexpensive, but there are many used copies available, and your heirs will probably realize a reasonable return when they sell off your copy on eBay. This one is a classic.

Seamanship in the Age of Sail: An Account of the Shiphandling of the Sailing Man-of-War 1600-1860, Based on Contemporary Sources by John Harland

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https://www.amazon.com/Seamanship-Age-Sail-Man-War/dp/0870219553

For those who want to learn more about the techniques of ship modeling, especially scratch building, I don't think there's a better book on the subject than The Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich. You could spend years building a library of books addressing the techniques of ship modeling to learn all the "tricks of the trade," but many are now out of date and of limited usefulness. (Gerald Wingrove's The Techniques of Ship Modeling is an example. A great book, but if you don't own a no longer made and now "collectable" Unimat lathe, you'll find a lot of his great advice sadly useless to you.) Forlich's book covers it all in the context of contemporary technology. As one review put it, "The Art of Shipmodeling describes the author's experience and methods in 300 pages abundantly illustrated with numerous drawings, sketches and more than 600 commentated photos. In this book, Frölich describes in detail all the crafts that a shipmodeler must master : he must be in turn a shipwright; a carpenter; a cabinetmaker; a marqueter; a blacksmith; a ropemaker and a sailmaker. He shows that any beginner, if he is industrious and persevering, can master this art." This book was originally written in French, if memory serves, but is available in several translations. Be sure you are ordering the English translation! Like all good things, this one is recommended with the caution that it ain't cheap by a long shot. It's relatively recently published and "in print," so there won't be a lot of copies on the used market, but shop around and you may get lucky. The only criticism I have of the book is that it is so large and heavy that it's best read at a desk. It's not suitable for laptop reading in bed! As for the cost, its content includes what you'd have to buy a half dozen other books to even approach equaling. This one's definitely worthy of leaving on your coffee table so when friends see your models and ask how you build them, you can show them the book and amaze them with the extent of your talents!

The Art of Ship modeling by Bernard Frolich​

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https://www.amazon.com/Art-Ship-modeling-Bernard-Frolich/dp/2903179840

Finally, for those who model British sailing warships and find themselves wondering about things like "What's the diameter of a mainmast on a 74-gun ship of the line?" or "What size block was used on a signal halyard?" or even "What's a crossed cat harpin?" I strongly recommend Scantlings of the Royal Navy 1719-1805 Comparisons of 1719, 1745 Establishments, Ship Builders Repository and Steel’s Elements and Practice by Allan Yedlinsky. While I'd have to say that although this book, which includes a readable reprint of Steel's Elements and Practice, the 1794 seminal work on the subject, is required bedtime reading for any insomniac, it contains everything we have in the historical record for the construction details used by the British Admiralty during the Age of Sail laid out in very accessible spiral bound wide "spread sheet" format and is, in my opinion, an indispensable reference work for anybody building British (and American) sailing warships of that period. It's recently published by Seawatch Books, so I doubt that there will be many copies on the used market as yet, but for what it contains, and the prodigious work required to compile and organize it, definitely worth the price and then some.

Scantlings of the Royal Navy 1719-1805 Comparisons of 1719, 1745 Establishments, Ship Builders Repository and Steel’s Elements and Practice by Allan Yedlinsky​

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Scantlings of the Royal Navy 1719-1805 Comparisons of 1719, 1745 Estab

This specially formatted book (14”x8 ½”) is divided into 2 sections. The first shows all of the scantlings from the 1719, 1745 and 1750 amended figures in an easy to use spread sheet format. The second section compares Steel and Ship Builders Repository in the same format. Additionally, the...

seawatchbooks.com

This post isn't intended to "hijack" Dale Stevens' very promising "class" on scratch ship modeling but is only offered in response to Kurt Konrath's post above as what I hope will be a helpful "required reading" list for Dale's class. Not only do these volumes cover the subject comprehensively, but all are valuable reference works worthy of being close at hand on any ship modeler's bookshelf whether they assemble kits or build from scratch. All are thoroughly and clearly illustrated, so, a picture being worth a thousand words, seemingly costly as some may be, they are all worthwhile investments. If these books had been available when I started getting serious about ship modeling, I'd have saved a lot of money buying books over the decades that I've been building my nautical research library, and I'd have a lot more room on my bookshelves! A tremendous amount of information about period ships has become far more accessible in recent times and can now be accessed expeditiously in far fewer books than was once the case.

I would like to add a very interesting reference book by David Antcherl consisting of 4 volumes for the construction of English models of the HMN Swan Class Slops 1767-1780.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

With all the frames drawn you will have to break them down, start with drawing the break lines on one side and mirror them to the other side



i am using cad go trim the pieces



you will need two of each piece



you ca take all the pieces and rubber cement them to sheet stock that is the proper thickness for 1/2 the thickness of a full frame. Below is a set up for laser cutting the frame parts.



for laser cutting the parts are very close together

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

cutting out all the frame parts as individual pieces then assembling the frame requires accurately cutting out each part and making sure the ends are exactly right. Building frames this way requires accuracy in cutting and assembly, but it also saves on material. Hahn used a frame blank method.



blanks are built up and the frame is rubber cemented to the blank. Using this method the frame is cut out as one piece.



on the larger ships with a lot of frames the blank pieces can be in the 100s. to keep the angles the same Harold made a jig for cutting the blanks.



for small ships using1 inch wide framing material mark out the blanks using a cardboard template




With a scroll saw cut apart the blank pieces



Again, using the cardboard template set the angle on a disk sander and sand the ends to the mark.



it is apparent using blanks to cut out frames will use more material than cutting out the individual frame pieces. If your a first time builder of a framed hull i highly recommend using the blank method.

 

[donfarr]

OK DAVE PEACE BE UPON YOU IN CHRIST NAME IAM BECOMING ENTHRALEED IN THISWTHREAS WOW WO WO OK I AM STILL RECUPERATING WITH MY PROBLEM AND N MY NEW DISTRIBUTION PLACE UNDER SUPER CARE OF NURSES DR ETC IT LOOKS LIKE THIS IS WHERE JUSUES WANTS ME AND I CONTINUE TO FORGET IT IS WHERE HE WANTS ME NOW I SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO SOME SMALL MODELING AND A LOT OF RESEARCH YOURS SOON I HOPE PLEASE IF YOU BE SO KIND FORGIVE ME FOR THE PAST IT IS TIME I AM STARTING TO STUDY AND ABSORB, UNDEERSTAND WHAT MIS GOING ON I AM GOING TO TRY TO HAVE SOME SORT OF PLACE TO KEEP UP. THANK YOU AND EV AND ALL REMEMBER THE ASSHOLE CP/NRG I WAS CALLED A JESUS FREAK SUCK IT UP LRT ME HERE GOD BGLESS YOU AND EV AND AL DON

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Tools

This subject has many opinions and suggestions. The simple answer depends on what your building. The best suggestion is to start simple. As a beginner building kits you do not need a room full of tools. Most all kits provide you with cut out parts, pre-milled planking and sheet stock.
A bunch of sandpaper, hobby knives and if you want to step it up a rotary tool like a Dremel is all you need to get started.



Like i said the tools depend on what you doing a plumber has his specialized tool set as does a carpenter and mechanic etc.

If you looking for that WOW! factor you do not have to build a 100 ship of war, or a room full of expensive tools. sometimes less is more. Carving and building model ship out of ivory. Even the rigging line is made of ivory.



Looking into the workroom of David Warther you see a lot of hand tools and files.



The inner sanctum your space where you build does not have to look like a machine shop

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

sometimes the tools are so specialized you make your own. How many here have made their own tools?

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

i can't even remember how many times i saw a rank beginner thinking about building his first wooden ship model kit and goes on a forum to ask what kind of tools are needed? Granted someone who has never built one of these kits would not know what he is getting into. Replies i saw to his post are you got to get this table saw or that table saw and while you are at it order the thickness sander, also you might need a mill, lathe a drill press might be a good idea. Don't forget all the hand tools like knives, sandpaper, files, a caliper ruler C-clamps and spring clamps, special planking clamps, razor saws of all sizes, Good to have a Dremel tool and all the accessories, for sure you will need a disk sander and belt and spindle sander. a scroll saw yup got to have one of those. Oh don't forget a dust collection system. Lets kick it up a notch and get yourself a laser cutter and a 3D resin printer with the needed computer and all the software.

i can just read that guys mind, not only are the kits expensive but i will be in over my head with a thousand dollars in tools. Most discouraging to read the replies.
Getting real about it if you're a first-time model ship kit builder or you are doing it as a easy past time hobby you don't need 90% of those tools.

It does not matter if it is an advanced kit or beginners kit a kit is a kit and by definition it is supplying you with all the pieces and parts with very little fabrication on your part. So with that in mind all you need are some basic hobby tools.

The kits on the market are notorious for their not so informative instructions and so may time i read post blaming the manufacture when actually it's the builder at fault. These kits are a bit more than just slapping parts together and to explain how it is done would require a book. Kit manufactures take it for granted you the builder would have some basic knowledge. This is why there are simple beginner kits so you can work your way up to more complex builds.
What this has to do with tools is you do not want to jump in and buy a bunch of tools before you build a kit or two. You may not find model ship kit building to your liking, so no need to invest in expensive tool. As you progress you add tools as you go along.

What if you want to make the jump from kit to kit bashing or scratch building. To scratch build, you will need more that the basic tools. How do you know if scratch building is right for you without first trying it? You need to make the investment in the tools, or do you? there is semi-scratch building where you do not need all the necessary tools.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

lets open up the topic to anyone who has ideas and comments on tools for ship modeling

 

[rtibbs]

lets open up the topic to anyone who has ideas and comments on tools for ship modeling

There are a couple of words that come to mind regarding tools: NEED & WANT
Also, I'm sure we'll hear from the purist and those who just want to build a model ship for whatever their individual motive may be.
Please don't condemn those who may have a different opinion.

Ron,
A tool junkie

 

[OlivierF]

lets open up the topic to anyone who has ideas and comments on tools for ship modeling

I started this hobby of making wooden ship kits about 50 years ago with minimal tools. I still have the X-acto tools that came in a little wooden box (actually it looks like you can still get that set in it’s little wooden box from Amazon) with three blade handles (#1, 2, 5) with various blades. Additionally I got micro saw and aluminum miter box, various sand paper grits and sanding sticks and white glue. I hadn’t even heard of a self healing green mat (which is a requirement these days ) so my work table surface was a piece of plywood. I didn’t grow my tools until much later, but I had fun building wooden boat kits and spent endless hours perfecting my skills. This hobby certainly kept this teenager occupied and out of trouble way before video games and other stupid pastimes!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Please don't condemn those who may have a different opinion.

never ever condemn, those opinions are a wealth of information.

one thing i find is those who write practicums, instructions and how to articles are writing it from their point of view which may work for them but not always for someone else.
case in point
my days in commercial art and graphic design there was this foreman (art director) or whatever his title was. had his methods. Now we had a number of computer programs in the shop to work with. When a project came in one person used this program and did it their way that they were used to. The director would hover over you mumbling no, no, no not that program use this one, yikes don't use a spline use a series or arcs. Oh my god you people are driving me crazy, (ya we know and we do it on purpose) In the end we all get the same results and end up in the same place regardless how we got there.
There are tips and hints to improve methods that is for sure

 

[Roger Pellett]

I’m assuming that this topic has to do with getting started, not what is needed to scratch build a framed up model.

I recommend hand tools in order to develop basic skills:

Measuring:
An architect’s scale. This is a 1ft long triangular cross section scale with common scales marked. A metric equivalent is available.
A small engineer’s square
Pencils and a convenient way to keep them sharp
A metal straight edge.

Cutting:
A Zona razor saw
Xacto knife and spare blades

Drilling:
Pin vise
Set of wire sized drills

Shaping:
Set of needle files
Sandpaper

Holding
Small Bench Vise
Camps to suit need (often can be made from common items; binder clips, etc)

I am NOT recommending a Dremel tool. These high speed tools can cause more damage than they are worth. I didn’t find a need for mine until I got into metal work on my present project.

I believe that this outfit can be bought for about $100 and will last a lifetime. Other tools are best bought as needed.

Roger

 

[Peter Gutterman]

There are a couple of words that come to mind regarding tools: NEED & WANT
Also, I'm sure we'll hear from the purist and those who just want to build a model ship for whatever their individual motive may be.
Please don't condemn those who may have a different opinion.

Ron,
A tool junkie

Well said. My supply of tools accrued over time as I worked myself into a career of Antique furniture restoration. Two things made the difference. The kindness of strangers: Antique dealers willing to give a novice the space to a) work b) learn and grow. The other thing was my love of history and the art form.