Signet's Bonhomme Richard Cross Section [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Signet]

understood and I can fully follow.
Only one correction:
Merchant ships had at this time often a lot of guns permanently on board - They had to defend themselfs as much as possible against pirates and the french against english warships.
So the gunports of the french merchant were armed with guns, not all, but a bigger number of the ports.

Here are the data given in the web-page three-decks which are usually very accurate and collected by first and second sources - and the contemporary sources are giving here a very good information

Luc de Duras had a Boradside weight (as merchant) of 258 french LIvre with together 42 guns

View attachment 293113

the later Bonhomme Richard even slightly less with 240 french livres with 44 guns

View attachment 293112

French Fourth Rate ship 'Le Duc de Duras' (1778)

French Fourth Rate ship 'Le Duc de Duras' (1778). Dates of service, name changes, previous and next incarnations, dimensions, armament, commanders, officers and crewmen, actions, battles, sources

threedecks.org

Very interesting again. Thank you. Another interesting site I just found concerning this ship is History and Construction of the Duc de Duras/Bonhomme Richard. It concludes that the ship had only 12# cannon, with the 6 18# ports probably just left open for ventilation, and the drawing there, and above, show no gun ports for 8/9 pound cannon. Also, three-decks indicates 6# cannon in use on upper decks, not 8# as noted by Boudriot.

It seems that we as "construction historians" either have insufficient information, or too much (conflicting) information, though much of it is due to the change in time frame.

 

[Signet]

Continuing on, after adding some detail and such, I installed the lower gun deck, with the orlop deck cabins and carpenter's in place:

Unlike most, I think, I built up the entire deck, then slid it into place, but of course the cabins and carpenter's walk prevent doing the deck separately (since the are built higher between the cross beams). I slid the deck into place while holding the structures loosely in place, then glued and clamped the gun deck in place. Afterwards, I went back and added a few drops of CA here and there to keep the structures from moving. I also added the oven before putting the gun deck in place, because it would be more difficult for me to to install the eye bolts and rings that hold the oven in place.

I also added the inside planking on the gun deck after it was glued in place:


This photo shows how I want to continue with the build: One side with completed planking everywhere, the other with little or no planking to show the ship structure better, some being added in this case only to support an 18-pound gun.

Up until the gun deck, I made both sides of the model the same: Partial planking is used in a logical manner, but sufficient planking left off to show the structure. This still ends up hiding some structure, and still doesn't show the lines of the ship very well. I wish I'd have started this with the hull and hold. But I didn't, so this will be kind of a mix of the two methods.

More photos of the build to this time:






Previously, I had mentioned about the accuracy of the gun carriages and barrels, and here is what I've ended up doing to improve it somewhat:

The above/left photo shows the accuracy of the carriage bracket online is actually very, very good, and the larger barrels included for the two 18-pounder guns is also quite close, so I am using them without change. (BTW, the drawing in the background of these photos is from Boudriot's book, scaled to 1/48 scale.)

Next, I compared the 12-pounder guns, which were available in an Old (long) and New (short) pattern:

Comparing to the Old pattern above, the included smaller barrels are about a scale half foot too short, while they are about a scale half foot too long for the New pattern. As the ship had both, the included barrel is a happy medium, so I will use them for the 12-pounders.

Looking above at the same photos, the carriage brackets included with the kit are about a scale half foot too long for these guns. Both Old and New patterns used the same carriages. I decided to cut the brackets shorter, then modify the steps, to better match the actual guns on the ship. This is shown by the red cuts on the above/right photo.

Finally, the 9-pounders (called by Boudroit as both 8- and 9-pounders in his book):


The barrel included with the kit is at the bottom (the same size as those included for the 12-pounder). I bought two new barrels, 45mm in length, for use for the 9 -pounders, which as you can see are much closer to scale. I couldn't find 50mm length barrels, and the actual size would be about 48mm, so 45 is closer.

The carriages with the kit are also the same size as the 12-pounders, and as the above diagram shows, they are too big. Once again, I cut them shorter, cut the notches so as to include only 3 as on the original (not 4), and extended the cutout for the rear axtree to shorten the wheelbase.

I don't have all the guns assembled yet, as I'm waiting for some small hardware, then having to drill the brackets, before assembly. I'll post them when they're done, but think they will look much closer to scale than those included with the kit, and will show a good progression in size.

As I've mentioned previously, while I've read the instructions and looked at the pictures, I've down things differently and in a different order than that described with the kit. So I've gone ahead and looked at all the parts, wanting to make sure I don't forget anything. In doing so, I don't find a use for the part numbers 01 and 02 (two each) as shown on the 2mm thick laser-cut sheet:


Can anyone tell me where these two parts are used? I'm probably blind, but (think) I've looked everywhere.

That's it for now.

 

[Uwek]

Continuing on, after adding some detail and such, I installed the lower gun deck, with the orlop deck cabins and carpenter's in place:
View attachment 295324
Unlike most, I think, I built up the entire deck, then slid it into place, but of course the cabins and carpenter's walk prevent doing the deck separately (since the are built higher between the cross beams). I slid the deck into place while holding the structures loosely in place, then glued and clamped the gun deck in place. Afterwards, I went back and added a few drops of CA here and there to keep the structures from moving. I also added the oven before putting the gun deck in place, because it would be more difficult for me to to install the eye bolts and rings that hold the oven in place.

I also added the inside planking on the gun deck after it was glued in place:
View attachment 295326

This photo shows how I want to continue with the build: One side with completed planking everywhere, the other with little or no planking to show the ship structure better, some being added in this case only to support an 18-pound gun.
View attachment 295325
Up until the gun deck, I made both sides of the model the same: Partial planking is used in a logical manner, but sufficient planking left off to show the structure. This still ends up hiding some structure, and still doesn't show the lines of the ship very well. I wish I'd have started this with the hull and hold. But I didn't, so this will be kind of a mix of the two methods.

More photos of the build to this time:
View attachment 295327

View attachment 295333

View attachment 295334

Previously, I had mentioned about the accuracy of the gun carriages and barrels, and here is what I've ended up doing to improve it somewhat:
View attachment 295335 View attachment 295336
The above/left photo shows the accuracy of the carriage bracket online is actually very, very good, and the larger barrels included for the two 18-pounder guns is also quite close, so I am using them without change. (BTW, the drawing in the background of these photos is from Boudriot's book, scaled to 1/48 scale.)

Next, I compared the 12-pounder guns, which were available in an Old (long) and New (short) pattern:
View attachment 295359 View attachment 295361
Comparing to the Old pattern above, the included smaller barrels are about a scale half foot too short, while they are about a scale half foot too long for the New pattern. As the ship had both, the included barrel is a happy medium, so I will use them for the 12-pounders.

Looking above at the same photos, the carriage brackets included with the kit are about a scale half foot too long for these guns. Both Old and New patterns used the same carriages. I decided to cut the brackets shorter, then modify the steps, to better match the actual guns on the ship. This is shown by the red cuts on the above/right photo.

Finally, the 9-pounders (called by Boudroit as both 8- and 9-pounders in his book):

View attachment 295367
The barrel included with the kit is at the bottom (the same size as those included for the 12-pounder). I bought two new barrels, 45mm in length, for use for the 9 -pounders, which as you can see are much closer to scale. I couldn't find 50mm length barrels, and the actual size would be about 48mm, so 45 is closer.

The carriages with the kit are also the same size as the 12-pounders, and as the above diagram shows, they are too big. Once again, I cut them shorter, cut the notches so as to include only 3 as on the original (not 4), and extended the cutout for the rear axtree to shorten the wheelbase.

I don't have all the guns assembled yet, as I'm waiting for some small hardware, then having to drill the brackets, before assembly. I'll post them when they're done, but think they will look much closer to scale than those included with the kit, and will show a good progression in size.

As I've mentioned previously, while I've read the instructions and looked at the pictures, I've down things differently and in a different order than that described with the kit. So I've gone ahead and looked at all the parts, wanting to make sure I don't forget anything. In doing so, I don't find a use for the part numbers 01 and 02 (two each) as shown on the 2mm thick laser-cut sheet:
View attachment 295377

Can anyone tell me where these two parts are used? I'm probably blind, but (think) I've looked everywhere.

That's it for now.

These are the top of the rails

 

[Signet]

These are the top of the rails
View attachment 295456

Ah, I missed that. Obviously. I used 2x7mm when it would have been wider, which would have been better, and I don't want to rip it apart.

That is one complaint I have with this kit: some times stripwood is used for a part, but the part is given a number, meaning to me that it should be a cut part (mostly in the details kit). IMHO ALL cut stripwood should be identified as the size of stripwood, and not given a part number. I'm ending up with not nearly enough 3x6 strips, so maybe I missed something else.

Anyhow, thanks for that.

 

[Signet]

I've been working on the guns for the cross section. There are two 18-pounders, four 12-pounders and two 8-9-pounders (I've read they were both). I posted previously that I got some different barrels for the 8-pounders, and reworked the carriages some, as noted above. I decided to blacken the barrels (and pretty much all brass rings, nails, etc.) using Birchwood Casey Brass Black. It did a perfect job first time on nails and rings; the barrels were a mixed bag:


I had expected the bright area around the larger barrel's trunnion, as I had superglued it in place, and could get it all off. I guess just by "playing" with them and all, I'd gotten some areas marked up more than I thought, with something that the alcohol wouldn't remove.

So I cleaned them up some more, using steel wool and a file, and they turned out better the next time:


Some notes concerning the use of the Brass Black:

1. Small parts cannot be "buffed" afterwards, and I find that the black coating rubs off on fingers especially well, and other things. Doesn't really hurt the part, just can make a mess.
2. Definitely buff the larger parts like the gun barrels with a soft cloth. It brings out a nice sheen.
3. I only used one coat (soaking) of the Brass Black for most parts. Those that didn't take weren't clean enough so were redone as above.
4. While the Brass Black liquid is a semi-transparent light blue color, it DOES stain the woods I've checked it on. One one of the other threads, someone asked if it would. It does. Putting a wood finish on afterwards did not remove it or make it less noticeable (like can be done with superglue on wood).
5. Likewise, if you apply the Brass Black to a pin or other brass part already inserted in the wood, it WILL blacken the brass, but then in turn makes a black stain around the part in the wood. Ugly!
6. At first I took small storage containers and partly filled them with Brass Black, then placed the brass parts in them to darken. Then rinsed them while in the container, etc. I found that using small food baggies with a small amount of Brass Black in the bottom worked better: I would add one barrel at a time, seal the bag, squish it around to mix the liquid and cover the part, until it was the color I wanted (usually only about a minute), then take the part out to rinse and continue the process. Then add the next barrel or part. I'm sure you shouldn't dip parts in the Brass Black bottle, contaminating the liquid, but using the baggie, I could seal it and add parts later.
7. The black coating DOES scratch off. Since I think it's designed for guns, possibly multiple coats would prevent that, but I just tried to be careful and touched up any scratched areas I didn't like.

Here are my three sizes of guns atop the 1/48 scale sized Boudriot's drawing:

As stated previously, the gun barrels and carriages are close to scale for the 18- and 12-pounders (the barrel averaging the length of the Old and New patterns). I replaced the 8-9-pounder barrels with shorter ones, which are pretty close, and modified the carriages to be closer in size and shape.

A fellow forum member here helped me out with some extremely nice breeching ropes:

The larger rope included with the kit was only about half the required size. I think these will look good once attached in position.

On to making the rest of the gun tackles and mounting the larger cannon on the lower gun deck, then starting on the next deck...

 

[Signet]

Continuing on with the guns, after a hiatus caused by a number of things. I've mounted the two 18-pounders on the lower gun deck:


Since I'm showing, starting on this gun deck, half the model with mostly only structure, and the other side fully planked, I had no place for the port side shot triangle. Rather than not use it, I placed it in the additional area to the left of the starboard gun.

As you can see, I'm not a proponent of precisely spiraled rope from the gun tackles. I don't believe they would ever have been used, and in general wouldn't expect the ropes to be left on a wet deck, but rather piled on the gun or other mounts. Sure, I'm lazy, and not really skilled enough to do them properly, but I did what I felt might actually be done with the ropes, during times when they might be moved around. Yeah, I know that's especially silly with an area not even showing planking, which would never have guns on it, but the idea is still illustrated, IMHO.

Another view of the lower gun deck:


The admiralty finally sent an inspector/supervisor:

What took them so long, I'll never know. Lord knows his expertise was necessary long before now. He's also a bit tall for this ship, but insists he is average height and will be able to fulfill his duties of keeping me and the model on track (or is it on course, in the case of ship rather than railway models?).

 

[Signet]

Now working on the next gun deck. As shown in this thread previously the two decks I've done prior to this (orlop and lower gun decks) I've completely assembled separately, out of the hull, which made construction much easier for me. I didn't think that would be possible, or practical, for me on this deck due to the bits and other items that continue from the lower gun deck to this one. I was also very concerned about the main mast fitting through the deck properly. So this and probably the upper deck, I will build in place.

I wanted to make sure all parts fit together well, as it will be much more difficult to fit the pieces together in place than when done separately, so I prepared the main cross member while held together by short pieces of the 2x2 square, making sure the grooves for other structures matched:

I know this is pretty obvious to everyone, but any variation can cause a problem. You might also notice in the above photo how I had to extend the length of these cross members. My hull has continued to open up toward the top during construction. It seemed it would be easy to pull into the right location, but all these little sticks have gotten surprisingly strong, and resist deformation. So while doing the previous deck, I already accepted that my decks would be a bit wider toward the top, and I would just have to modify as necessary to accommodate that. I said from the beginning that this build log would not be so much a way to DO things, but rather what to do when you've not done previous steps correctly, or as precisely as required. Well, here's an example. There are many. But my limited capabilities, and admittedly patience, have created these problems, and as an engineer, I have a mind set to make things work, as I'm in no position to start over and do things right.

I started by gluing the middle two cross members in place as along with the supports around the mast. This was done with the mast securely in place, being securely located by a brass pin and the cradle at the keel, and the shims surrounding it on the lower gun deck.

I obtained a cheap set of 25.4 x 50.8 x 76.2 blocks (some may call them 1-2-3 blocks, but I'm trying to convert to metric) to use as weights as well as right angle and flat surfaces. You can tell they're cheap because the threaded holes are almost worthless, as the drilled-through holes are not large enough to allow the insertion of bolts that thread into the threaded holes. But I didn't know that when I ordered them.


This will form the basis and center for this deck and looks like this:

 

[Signet]

At this point, the other two cross members have been added, and the longitudinal beams are being placed.



The decking around the main mast is loosely in place, and must be fitted to the space available.

Again, here, I had to deviate a bit from the plans due to the wider width. Rather than a piece of 3x3 for the triangular deck edges (sorry, don't know the terminology, and too lazy to look it all up), I used cut down 3x7 pieces, closer to the original and making up for the increased width of the cross beams over the side longitudinal members.

I've notched this 3x7 piece for the drain holes, into which rectangular brass tubing will be added for the drains. Thanks to Uwe for noting these in his excellent build, I've used somewhat smaller square tubing, and have previously made the holes in the outer hull for them.

I've added pulleys for both sheet and jeer bitts. Unfortunately, I couldn't find both wood and brass pulleys in the sizes for both, so used different ones. I'm leaving these pulleys shiney brass, rather than blackening them, as this is an unfinished, construction style of model, and I like some parts better that way (not guns, of course, which are to represent black iron).


Here the bitts are shown in place, and some central planking started. This is all supposed to be 3x6 planks, but I didn't receive nearly enough of this, so am using some extra 1x5 strips with 2x6 on top. Likewise, the laser cut mast surround with pump holes is only 2mm thick, where it should be 3, so the 1x5 strips go under it to bring it to the correct height.

The above photo also shows the 1x5 strip cross pieces which mount under the longitudinal beams in notches. They're harder to get into place when assembled to the hull, rather than when the deck is done separately. I then inserted the 2x2 stringers in place, which helps support the 1x5 strips.

Here I'm doing 1x5 strips around the stairway and hatch openings:


The plans and other builds show a very narrow piece between the top of the two sets of stairs, but I thought a more substantial piece would logically separate the two stairs a bit. I think this would help their use in actual fact, and also I could not find this type of stairs area on Bourdroit's drawings of the ship. Certainly not where they're located on this model, so I felt a bit of additional artistic license could be used. I used a short piece of 3x7 with 2 small brackets left over from the inside structure kit:


At this point, I've begun to appreciate the built-in handle for the model. Very useful in handling it and working on the bottom:

For the longest time, cannon balls would fall out of the shot locker, but this seems to have eased now. If, when I'm done, they look empty, I'll top them up.

 

[Signet]

Here I have added the 3mm square tubing "drains" from this deck, to both the inside and outside. I say both, because try as I might to determine the exact location of them from outside the hull, they ended up too high on the inside and didn't come out right at deck height as desired. I couldn't change their location, so simply installed two sets of brass drains: 1 set from the outside, and one from the inside, which is below the outer ones. Once fully planked, this won't be visible unless you tilt the model to look through the drains (by picking the model up with the handle, of course), and don't see light on the other side. Again, the price I pay for lack of precision, but definitely not noticeable in the complete model, I think.


I think they look better on the model than in the photos, but I'm sure that's my rationalizing mind.

Decking on one side came next:

This photo also shows the planking between where the stairs will mount and the cargo opening.

Finished to this point, the planking is in place.

As you see, the inspector/supervisor has made an appearance. Apparently, his inspection skills are superior to his supervisory skills, because he did not notice I'd reversed all the deck planking, so that my carefully measured cut lines did not line up with the deck cross braces. After carefully gluing each one to 7 cross members as well as neighboring planks, I now have to remove these and re-do the planking. I wasn't going to bother, but it bothers me too much. And the inspector said I had to as well.

 

[Signet]

Off topic, but causing an interruption, I ordered MarisStella's Ragusian Carrack because of Olha's excellent build log and videos of it. It arrived yesterday, but the post person decided to place it on my driveway by the garage door, instead of on my covered porch (closer to the road), and an hour later it rained. My wife just happened to open the garage door to check on something. This is the result:

The outer cardboard wasn't even like cardboard, having separated and fallen apart:

The kit box was damaged, of course. I still have to go though everything and see if the wood dries out okay. It was too heartbreaking at the time, so I just set it on a table to dry and will go back when I recover.

During my recovery, I corrected the deck joints to actually be over the beams, standard 1324 spacing:

The inspector/supervisor has approved it, but my builder's license is in jeopardy.

 

[Signet]

I have a question concerning the Mast Coat (I think it's called) on the Bonhomme Richard. The model includes two wooden rings for this use, on the upper and middle decks. I lost one, somehow, but that may not be a problem. Bourdroit's book on the 74 shows a similar mast coat on the middle deck (in red below), but what I believe is a canvas cover for the top mast coat (no doubt over some kind of ring), shown in blue:


Since I only have one wood ring, I will use that for the middle deck, as shown in red. I was going to make a duplicate for the upper deck, but as it was probably closer to what is shown for the 74, I think I will model that instead.

My questions are: Do you agree with this? And how would I go about modeling this? On a fully-modeled and painted version, painted cloth would probably be most accurate. But on this "unfinished" (mostly natural oiled pear wood), I'm not sure painted fabric would be best. Although I'd have no way of turning a similarly shaped piece of wood. Any ideas?

 

[Frank48]

I have a question concerning the Mast Coat (I think it's called) on the Bonhomme Richard. The model includes two wooden rings for this use, on the upper and middle decks. I lost one, somehow, but that may not be a problem. Bourdroit's book on the 74 shows a similar mast coat on the middle deck (in red below), but what I believe is a canvas cover for the top mast coat (no doubt over some kind of ring), shown in blue:
View attachment 309998

Since I only have one wood ring, I will use that for the middle deck, as shown in red. I was going to make a duplicate for the upper deck, but as it was probably closer to what is shown for the 74, I think I will model that instead.

My questions are: Do you agree with this? And how would I go about modeling this? On a fully-modeled and painted version, painted cloth would probably be most accurate. But on this "unfinished" (mostly natural oiled pear wood), I'm not sure painted fabric would be best. Although I'd have no way of turning a similarly shaped piece of wood. Any ideas?

Good evening, Si is a leather cover that is attached to both the tree and the deck

 

[Frank48]

ask for is reasonable answer is courtesy

 

[Signet]

ask for is reasonable answer is courtesy

Thank you for your response. I didn't know leather was used in addition to canvas.

 

[Uwek]

Leather or watertight treated canvas.....
Your red ring was deifinitively made out of wood and no canvas
also at the top deck level there was a wooden ring against which such sometimes a canvas was nailed to secure the water is going in bigger quantities down to the lower decks or running down to mast foot.

But the canvas had not the tent form like you marked blue, I guess it was more like Boudriot was drawing it - on mine in red shown on one half of the mast.
The small dotts would be the nailing to fix the canvas against wood (see red marks close the the number "8"

 

[Signet]

Thanks for that, Uwe. The drawing you posted is from Boudroit's Bonhomme Richard while mine is from his The 74, to which we have gone for many details for this model as well. The drawing I posted makes this piece much more visible, of course; I hadn't noticed the thin line in addition to the wooden ring on the BH drawing. Possibly either would be appropriate, although to model the BH I should probably use his BH drawing where they differ. In which case I have to make another wooden ring. But the canvas part would be easier to do.

 

[Uwek]

OK - Definitely also Jean Boudriot did not know exactly how the canvas was exactly at the BH ship.
So both solutions and I guess also others are possible - it is a "best guess" from us and also Boudriot......
Very good work and research in my opinion

 

[Hoss6262]

Continuing on, after adding some detail and such, I installed the lower gun deck, with the orlop deck cabins and carpenter's in place:
View attachment 295324
Unlike most, I think, I built up the entire deck, then slid it into place, but of course the cabins and carpenter's walk prevent doing the deck separately (since the are built higher between the cross beams). I slid the deck into place while holding the structures loosely in place, then glued and clamped the gun deck in place. Afterwards, I went back and added a few drops of CA here and there to keep the structures from moving. I also added the oven before putting the gun deck in place, because it would be more difficult for me to to install the eye bolts and rings that hold the oven in place.

I also added the inside planking on the gun deck after it was glued in place:
View attachment 295326

This photo shows how I want to continue with the build: One side with completed planking everywhere, the other with little or no planking to show the ship structure better, some being added in this case only to support an 18-pound gun.
View attachment 295325
Up until the gun deck, I made both sides of the model the same: Partial planking is used in a logical manner, but sufficient planking left off to show the structure. This still ends up hiding some structure, and still doesn't show the lines of the ship very well. I wish I'd have started this with the hull and hold. But I didn't, so this will be kind of a mix of the two methods.

More photos of the build to this time:
View attachment 295327

View attachment 295333

View attachment 295334

Previously, I had mentioned about the accuracy of the gun carriages and barrels, and here is what I've ended up doing to improve it somewhat:
View attachment 295335 View attachment 295336
The above/left photo shows the accuracy of the carriage bracket online is actually very, very good, and the larger barrels included for the two 18-pounder guns is also quite close, so I am using them without change. (BTW, the drawing in the background of these photos is from Boudriot's book, scaled to 1/48 scale.)

Next, I compared the 12-pounder guns, which were available in an Old (long) and New (short) pattern:
View attachment 295359 View attachment 295361
Comparing to the Old pattern above, the included smaller barrels are about a scale half foot too short, while they are about a scale half foot too long for the New pattern. As the ship had both, the included barrel is a happy medium, so I will use them for the 12-pounders.

Looking above at the same photos, the carriage brackets included with the kit are about a scale half foot too long for these guns. Both Old and New patterns used the same carriages. I decided to cut the brackets shorter, then modify the steps, to better match the actual guns on the ship. This is shown by the red cuts on the above/right photo.

Finally, the 9-pounders (called by Boudroit as both 8- and 9-pounders in his book):

View attachment 295367
The barrel included with the kit is at the bottom (the same size as those included for the 12-pounder). I bought two new barrels, 45mm in length, for use for the 9 -pounders, which as you can see are much closer to scale. I couldn't find 50mm length barrels, and the actual size would be about 48mm, so 45 is closer.

The carriages with the kit are also the same size as the 12-pounders, and as the above diagram shows, they are too big. Once again, I cut them shorter, cut the notches so as to include only 3 as on the original (not 4), and extended the cutout for the rear axtree to shorten the wheelbase.

I don't have all the guns assembled yet, as I'm waiting for some small hardware, then having to drill the brackets, before assembly. I'll post them when they're done, but think they will look much closer to scale than those included with the kit, and will show a good progression in size.

As I've mentioned previously, while I've read the instructions and looked at the pictures, I've down things differently and in a different order than that described with the kit. So I've gone ahead and looked at all the parts, wanting to make sure I don't forget anything. In doing so, I don't find a use for the part numbers 01 and 02 (two each) as shown on the 2mm thick laser-cut sheet:
View attachment 295377

Can anyone tell me where these two parts are used? I'm probably blind, but (think) I've looked everywhere.

That's it for now.

Really clean work! I love the tones of the wood. Very warm.

 

[Signet]

Really clean work! I love the tones of the wood. Very warm.

Thank you, Hoss. Yes, the pear wood is beautiful. My first project using it, and I'm in love. Oh, I really liked Bonanza, too. ;-)

 

[Signet]

Wrapping up the middle gun deck, I've added the stairways to the lower gun deck, the mast coat and planking on one outer wall. I'm staying with including all planking on one side of the model, with mostly just framing on the other.



The supervisor/inspector didn't make it in today. Hope there wasn't a problem.