Vielen Dank. Das sieht nach einem sehr guten Buch aus.
Signet's Bonhomme Richard Cross Section [COMPLETED BUILD]
Continuing on with the upper deck, like the middle gun deck, it is built in place, unlike the lowest two decks which I built up and slid into place:
Although none was shown on the plans, I elected to add cross and diagonal bracing around the mast similar to what was done on Deck 1:
I reasoned that while the bracing isn't necessary for the mast, there had to at least be support for the decking around the mast.
I've here added the knees in place. I had to shorten them by about 1/8" across the top or they would interfere with the 2mm longitudinal square stringer pieces (sorry, don't recall the correct term):
I screwed up and shortened the knees that support the platforms on either side, too, so added an additional piece to gain the width back. Good for support of the platform, anyhow. Also added scrap pieces under the cross beam on the next knee for support of the decking that will go on the platform.
Basic framing for the top deck:
Adding the longitudinal members to the upper deck:
They're fairly flimsy, only 1mm thick at their thinnest, and I broke the one on the left. I hope it won't be that noticeable later. Perhaps a construction accident?
Planking is complete on the main deck, with the hatchway formed:
I have a question. Parts 108 and the two 09 are to be shaped into mouldings, using the metal cutting template/tool provided with the kit:
I've seen others doing this kit who have excellently shaped mouldings for this area, but I'm wondering how to shape them. The pieces are 1mm thick by 5mm wide, but none of the cut openings in the cutting template/tool can fit over a 5mm strip:
So, how is this piece to be shaped? I don't understand how to use the tool to shape it.
Although none was shown on the plans, I elected to add cross and diagonal bracing around the mast similar to what was done on Deck 1:
I reasoned that while the bracing isn't necessary for the mast, there had to at least be support for the decking around the mast.
I've here added the knees in place. I had to shorten them by about 1/8" across the top or they would interfere with the 2mm longitudinal square stringer pieces (sorry, don't recall the correct term):
I screwed up and shortened the knees that support the platforms on either side, too, so added an additional piece to gain the width back. Good for support of the platform, anyhow. Also added scrap pieces under the cross beam on the next knee for support of the decking that will go on the platform.
Basic framing for the top deck:
Adding the longitudinal members to the upper deck:
They're fairly flimsy, only 1mm thick at their thinnest, and I broke the one on the left. I hope it won't be that noticeable later. Perhaps a construction accident?
Planking is complete on the main deck, with the hatchway formed:
I have a question. Parts 108 and the two 09 are to be shaped into mouldings, using the metal cutting template/tool provided with the kit:
I've seen others doing this kit who have excellently shaped mouldings for this area, but I'm wondering how to shape them. The pieces are 1mm thick by 5mm wide, but none of the cut openings in the cutting template/tool can fit over a 5mm strip:
So, how is this piece to be shaped? I don't understand how to use the tool to shape it.
I was looking around for more detail to add to the model, and looking more closely at Boudriot's Bonhomme Richard 1779 I noticed that the deck openings behind the main mast appear to be covered by grating, rather than hatches as appear elsewhere (and on most models):
The hatches I refer too are outlined in red.
Turns out I had almost exactly the right amount of grating pieces left from my HMS Victory cross section:
In place, it looks pretty good:
After finishing it looks like it belongs:
I also noticed on the BR drawing that they showed the bracing around the main mast (outlined in blue above). It's similar to what I conjectured and added, but not the same. I think I'm too far along to rip that out, though, so it will stay.
An interesting detail, again on the above drawing, outlined in green, are two small hatch covers. Based on their location, I'm sure they are intended for installation, disassembly and repair of the main pumps, as they are right above them. This would allow easy access and removal of the parts through the deck. I figured I would add on these details, but noticed that their location interferes with my bracing around the mast, so it wouldn't work quite right. Then I noticed that Boudriot's plans have this same contradiction! Turns out, the openings under those hatches would also be partially or mostly blocked by the bracing as well. So, don't know what I'll do about them, add the hatches or not. We'll see. There may be enough detail that I won't need them. If I'd do it over again, though, I'd include them and make sure bracing would allow their use.
The hatches I refer too are outlined in red.
Turns out I had almost exactly the right amount of grating pieces left from my HMS Victory cross section:
In place, it looks pretty good:
After finishing it looks like it belongs:
I also noticed on the BR drawing that they showed the bracing around the main mast (outlined in blue above). It's similar to what I conjectured and added, but not the same. I think I'm too far along to rip that out, though, so it will stay.
An interesting detail, again on the above drawing, outlined in green, are two small hatch covers. Based on their location, I'm sure they are intended for installation, disassembly and repair of the main pumps, as they are right above them. This would allow easy access and removal of the parts through the deck. I figured I would add on these details, but noticed that their location interferes with my bracing around the mast, so it wouldn't work quite right. Then I noticed that Boudriot's plans have this same contradiction! Turns out, the openings under those hatches would also be partially or mostly blocked by the bracing as well. So, don't know what I'll do about them, add the hatches or not. We'll see. There may be enough detail that I won't need them. If I'd do it over again, though, I'd include them and make sure bracing would allow their use.
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- Aug 30, 2020
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Wow looks fantastic, so much detail to gaze in wonder.
Thanks very much for that. I'm really enjoying the kit.
I decided to try my hand at the mast coat, as posted by Uwe and as shown by Boudriot in his book on the USS Bonhomme Richard.
Since I lost one of the mast coat rings included with the kit, I made another by gluing two 1mm pieces together. I then put a piece of masking tape over the ring (masking tape is to represent the canvas used to cover this area), and cut the inside of it in pie shaped cuts to allow it to slip over the mast. Also cut a piece of masking tape to ring around the mast:
The flared the cut center area to allow it to slip over the mast.
Pushed the cut tabs up to allow them to be covered by the surrounding piece. Glued the mast coat ring in place with super glue.
Very hard to see, but made pin holes along the ring and at the top of the tape and the seam to simulate nails or tacks. Began coating the tape with a brown wash.
Continued with a darker wash to simulate a tar coating on the canvas (tape).
I looks okay, but I was hoping the "nail" holes would show up better, and they don't. Of course, from a scale 50 feet (1 foot in the model), you'd never see them anyhow. I may touch it up a bit more to get it more depth, but I'm fairly okay with the representation of it.
Since I lost one of the mast coat rings included with the kit, I made another by gluing two 1mm pieces together. I then put a piece of masking tape over the ring (masking tape is to represent the canvas used to cover this area), and cut the inside of it in pie shaped cuts to allow it to slip over the mast. Also cut a piece of masking tape to ring around the mast:
The flared the cut center area to allow it to slip over the mast.
Pushed the cut tabs up to allow them to be covered by the surrounding piece. Glued the mast coat ring in place with super glue.
Very hard to see, but made pin holes along the ring and at the top of the tape and the seam to simulate nails or tacks. Began coating the tape with a brown wash.
Continued with a darker wash to simulate a tar coating on the canvas (tape).
I looks okay, but I was hoping the "nail" holes would show up better, and they don't. Of course, from a scale 50 feet (1 foot in the model), you'd never see them anyhow. I may touch it up a bit more to get it more depth, but I'm fairly okay with the representation of it.
I wrote above concerning the shaped or carved moldings that act as trim pieces to the edge of the upper deck and the side walks, asking how I could use the included shaping tool to create these. I searched all the build logs for this model on SoS, and found that builders either haven't gotten to that point yet (Uwe), or do not appear to have carved or shaped this molding piece. With that information, as well as my confidence in my inability to create such a carved or shaped molding, using the included tool or not, I decided to instead make this into a built-up molding.
I added a piece of 2x2mm pear centered on the trim pieces, then rounded the edges of the 2x2 as well as the back edge piece. Here are photos of the result:
Notice in the area of the two stairways, I left the 2x2 off, as it would intrude on the step area of the stairs. I'm fairly pleased with the result, certainly more so than I would have been had I tried shaping or carving them instead. Hopefully, I won't have a need for any more 2x2s, as that was my last one. ;-)
I added a piece of 2x2mm pear centered on the trim pieces, then rounded the edges of the 2x2 as well as the back edge piece. Here are photos of the result:
Notice in the area of the two stairways, I left the 2x2 off, as it would intrude on the step area of the stairs. I'm fairly pleased with the result, certainly more so than I would have been had I tried shaping or carving them instead. Hopefully, I won't have a need for any more 2x2s, as that was my last one. ;-)
It's lurking alright, but not for me. I'll be very lucky to ever finish the MarisStella Ragusian Carrack I got for my birthday. But ZHL makes a model of the full ship in the same 1/48 scale, with at least the same level of detail from what I can see. Its 58" length is well beyond my space availability, not to mention my modeling capabilities, but it would be one heck of a ship. Here's some information:
ZHL Model USS Bonhomme Richard Pear Version
I won't debate the question of space. But I will say that you have the capability to build most any kit you choose. You're a thinker and that's 90% of what needs to happen.
Thank you for that, but I've never built a plank on frame ship. All my previous models (from many years ago) were carved hulls. The closest to planking I have done is this cross section. Thus, the Ragusian Carrack, with its single-planked walnut hull, has me really worried, as most feel it requires the experience of previous similarly constructed ships to build. We'll see. Yes, as an experienced (read OLD) engineer, I can work out a lot of problems, and have had to, to make workarounds for my errors. But that planking.....
Continuing work on the top deck details, the railing with pre-carved details and belaying pin holders (two side ones not shown):
I know the brass belaying pins included with the kit are the wrong material as well as (I'm sure) oversize. I bought smaller ones of wood I thought were closer to scale, but after installing them, just didn't like the look. This cross section model, although realistic in many ways, is by definition not a true representation of the ship. And using almost all natural wood makes it look less realistic. It is, after all, a decoration and (hopefully) a display of a certain amount of skill. I therefore decided that I really like the brass pins, so they will stay.
The lower gun deck was looking a bit sparse to me, with only two guns and a bread oven. So I scratch built a matching kneading-trough and dough-table, generally in accord with those shown in Boudriot's The Seventy Four Gun Gun Ship, and will place them to the side of the bread oven later.
The loaves of bread and pile of dough looked much more realistic before I took this picture. :-( They seem in keeping with the rest, at least.
I know the brass belaying pins included with the kit are the wrong material as well as (I'm sure) oversize. I bought smaller ones of wood I thought were closer to scale, but after installing them, just didn't like the look. This cross section model, although realistic in many ways, is by definition not a true representation of the ship. And using almost all natural wood makes it look less realistic. It is, after all, a decoration and (hopefully) a display of a certain amount of skill. I therefore decided that I really like the brass pins, so they will stay.
The lower gun deck was looking a bit sparse to me, with only two guns and a bread oven. So I scratch built a matching kneading-trough and dough-table, generally in accord with those shown in Boudriot's The Seventy Four Gun Gun Ship, and will place them to the side of the bread oven later.
The loaves of bread and pile of dough looked much more realistic before I took this picture. :-( They seem in keeping with the rest, at least.
I think also, that these small covers are for necessary repair with lifting the ducts of the pumps.
In the drawing the bracing and the covers are not fitting, so it seems to be an error in Boudriots drawing.
But I guess you could make the small covers and move them slightly to fit to the open area where your bracing is visible
and BTW: very good work
Thank you, Uwe, for those words. Yes, I was thinking of moving the covers as well. I think I'll wait until the rest of the deck detail is in, and see if that will enhance it.I think also, that these small covers are for necessary repair with lifting the ducts of the pumps.
In the drawing the bracing and the covers are not fitting, so it seems to be an error in Boudriots drawing.
But I guess you could make the small covers and move them slightly to fit to the open area where your bracing is visible
View attachment 315093
and BTW: very good work
I want to get the wood ordered for the base for this model, as well as the plexiglass cover. I began looking at similar models and bases in builds here, including:
USS Bonhomme Richard POF Cross-Section in Cherry1-48 by neptune
USS Bonhomme Richard POF Cross-Section in Cherry 1-48 by carlosys Completed Build
and plans for the base in PDF by Carlos
I wanted to change the spacing and sizes somewhat, and eliminate both the gravel and additional thin pieces at the bottom, so this resulted in changing everything except its general appearance. After a page of dimensions and sketches, I decided instead to make a 3D drawing of it, as I was/am concerned about the proportions being appropriate with the model.
I intend to use a base of walnut, with a matte varnish finish, with the construction members being in a light colored wood, unfinished, something like this:
This is quite close to those done and posted previously, with just small changes in spacing, sizes and making room for the kit included nameplate (or maybe I'll have a brass one made instead).
The model will generally look like this once placed on (and screwed to) the stand:
While the plexiglass case will fit like this:
and a view from the aft end:
Any comments or suggestions? To make it look better, to improve sizes or proportions? As I said, I won't be adding gravel or sand around the area; this is after all a model showing construction rather than a diorama, and I already have a problem with cannonballs coming loose on the model, let alone sand and stones. ;-)
USS Bonhomme Richard POF Cross-Section in Cherry1-48 by neptune
USS Bonhomme Richard POF Cross-Section in Cherry 1-48 by carlosys Completed Build
and plans for the base in PDF by Carlos
I wanted to change the spacing and sizes somewhat, and eliminate both the gravel and additional thin pieces at the bottom, so this resulted in changing everything except its general appearance. After a page of dimensions and sketches, I decided instead to make a 3D drawing of it, as I was/am concerned about the proportions being appropriate with the model.
I intend to use a base of walnut, with a matte varnish finish, with the construction members being in a light colored wood, unfinished, something like this:
This is quite close to those done and posted previously, with just small changes in spacing, sizes and making room for the kit included nameplate (or maybe I'll have a brass one made instead).
The model will generally look like this once placed on (and screwed to) the stand:
While the plexiglass case will fit like this:
and a view from the aft end:
Any comments or suggestions? To make it look better, to improve sizes or proportions? As I said, I won't be adding gravel or sand around the area; this is after all a model showing construction rather than a diorama, and I already have a problem with cannonballs coming loose on the model, let alone sand and stones. ;-)
Added cleats and other detail to the mast. Not completely accurate, but I like the looks of it.
I have a question concerning the attaching rings in the deck for hooking the guns' tackles. The best picture of a complete gun tackle setup is shown in Boudroit's The Seventy Four Gun Ship:
Three deck rings are located behind the gun, with only the center-most two used for tackles in this position. Presumably the 3rd ring might be used to help hold the gun in position during sailing without guns ready. This is the way I have modeled the guns thus far on my model on the lower gun deck:
and the middle gun deck:
except I didn't include the 3rd ring on this deck for some reason.
In Boudroit's Bonhomme Richard he shows this arrangement on the lower gun deck:
but on the Middle gun deck, he shows a different arrangement:
likewise on the Upper gun deck:
In Boudroit's The Seventy Four Gun Ship he shows the lower gun deck the same as above:
but the Middle deck only has two in-line rings:
as does the upper gun deck:
Compounding all that, the kit's instructions show this arrangement on each of the decks:
the lower, Deck2, being identical with the gun detail and other sources, but the Middle and Upper decks, Deck0 and Deck1, only show 2 rings closer to the gun, as shown above in the Bonhomme Richard drawings, except without the rings closer to the center. This is close to what I have modeled, but is it right??
My Question: So, while I'm confused, I've already done the lower two decks. What do you think should be on the uppermost deck? If 2 rings closer to the guns and one toward the center, as shown in 2 of the sources (and on my model), would both tackles to pull the gun back be attached to the single ring toward the center? That would seem to be the only method available. But I wonder why the difference in ring locations from deck to deck? Source-to-source can vary, but being different within a single source is confusing.
Three deck rings are located behind the gun, with only the center-most two used for tackles in this position. Presumably the 3rd ring might be used to help hold the gun in position during sailing without guns ready. This is the way I have modeled the guns thus far on my model on the lower gun deck:
and the middle gun deck:
except I didn't include the 3rd ring on this deck for some reason.
In Boudroit's Bonhomme Richard he shows this arrangement on the lower gun deck:
but on the Middle gun deck, he shows a different arrangement:
likewise on the Upper gun deck:
In Boudroit's The Seventy Four Gun Ship he shows the lower gun deck the same as above:
but the Middle deck only has two in-line rings:
as does the upper gun deck:
Compounding all that, the kit's instructions show this arrangement on each of the decks:
the lower, Deck2, being identical with the gun detail and other sources, but the Middle and Upper decks, Deck0 and Deck1, only show 2 rings closer to the gun, as shown above in the Bonhomme Richard drawings, except without the rings closer to the center. This is close to what I have modeled, but is it right??
My Question: So, while I'm confused, I've already done the lower two decks. What do you think should be on the uppermost deck? If 2 rings closer to the guns and one toward the center, as shown in 2 of the sources (and on my model), would both tackles to pull the gun back be attached to the single ring toward the center? That would seem to be the only method available. But I wonder why the difference in ring locations from deck to deck? Source-to-source can vary, but being different within a single source is confusing.