Silent Mary by Mellpapa

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The silicone hardened and was removed from the clay.

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Cut off excess silicone.

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Check the shape and cut off more excess silicone.

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The cannon, carriage, and other parts are covered with clay and surrounded by LEGO.

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Apply wax to the clay portion and Apply wax to the silicone portion of the carriage.

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Pour in 100g of silicone and leave it until it hardens.
It takes about 8 hours to harden.

Until it hardens, the ring pin is made.
 
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Now that the silicone has hardened, plaster was poured for backing. Plaster may be a bit exaggerated for something this big, but I'm going for a strong style!
I can't wait to get the silicon mold for the back side, but I'll wait until the plaster hardens.

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I used this plaster.

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As the plaster hardens, remove the Lego frame.

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The clay is being peeled off.
Wax is applied so it peels off cleanly.

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It peeled off nicely.
Wax is great.

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Assemble the Lego frame again.

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Apply wax again to the silicone.
Without wax, the silicone will stick to the wax when it hardens.
Waxing is very important.

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The silicone has been poured. Now all we have to do is wait for it to harden.
Let's make ring pins again.
 
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The silicone hardened, the Lego frame was raised one level higher and the plaster for backing was poured.

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After the plaster hardened, I took off the Lego frame and scratched the silicon mold.
The mold is beautifully made.

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The silicone molds for the hugging are also nicely done.

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We have moaned about the silicon molds of the cuddles.

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We dig a groove for air ventilation.
Then, widen the hot-water outlet portion, and the silicon mold is complete.
 
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I immediately poured the resin.

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This is a close-up image. Resin is about to harden.

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I broke the silicon mold. The resin is flowing well.

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I took out the replicated resin. The carriage comes with a silicone mold.
I will remove it later and put it back into the silicone mold.

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I duplicated about 11 pieces and removed burrs from one of them.
Below the silicon mold is the original on the right and the duplicate on the left.

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In the four images, the right one is the original and the left one is the duplicated resin.
It is hard to tell because of the similar color, but it looks like this.
I need 24 cannons with carriages, so I'll duplicate 13 more.
I need about 100 barrels.
 
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I duplicated about 15 of them. It's a time consuming process.

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All the burrs have been cleaned off.
There are only 4 in the picture, but I cleaned them all up.

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When the cannon and carriage are cleaned up, you want to put them on deck.
I immediately put them there. It looks good.
I'm excited.
The center of the hull will have a gangway, so the cannon will only be seen in the back.
He said he needed 24, but it was 22.
I'll spare 4.

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In setting up the cannon, what about the color of the carriage and the breeching rope? I'm wondering, if you look closely at the set of the Silent Mary ghost ship shoot...
The carriage is blackish. It looks good, the same color as the hull hull plating. I'll paint it German grey and drybrush it with a lighter grey.
The cannon gun is matte black and I'll drybrush it with silver.

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Here is an enlargement of part of the cannon.
The Silent Mary is a Spanish battleship, so I would have thought it would have a breaching rope on the carriage. ......

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I've surrounded it with white lines. In the movie, there is apparently a ring that the rope goes through on the projection at the back of the cannon. How shall I make this?
I'll use brass wire to reproduce it.
 
Mellpapa,
It looks beautiful. May I suggest graphite instead of silver for the barrels? You can rub a pencil over the barrels and it will produce a very realistic metallic finish that is not too bright.
 
Mellpapa,
It looks beautiful. May I suggest graphite instead of silver for the barrels? You can rub a pencil over the barrels and it will produce a very realistic metallic finish that is not too bright.
Hello Namabiiru.
You found a way to use a pencil.
The barrel is painted matte black and rubbed with a pencil after drying to get a real feel. I am painting the carriage now. The barrel will be painted after this.
Thanks for the advice.
 
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By the way, I don't know what's going on with the breaching rope in this scene in the movie.

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I made a ring pin with 0.5mm brass wire.

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I used to make them with these pliers but they are hard to use.

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So I bought some cheap pliers from Daiso and modified the tips to be thinner.

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ote the red circle!
I made a ring pin after shaving the tip like this. Apparently, this is easier to use.

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The cannon muzzle of the cannon was drilled with a pin vise.
It's hard to drill a hole in the center. I marked the center of the cannon mouth with a needle and drilled holes with the pin vise blade in sequence from 0.3mm to 0.5mm to 0.8mm to 1mm.
I think I was able to drill the holes roughly in the center.
I put a ring of 0.5mm brass wire on the projection behind the cannon. It was a little big, but I was satisfied with it! I was satisfied with the result.

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Apply double-sided tape to the cigarette box and stick the carriage part of the cannon.
Preparation for painting with German gray.
After this, German Gray was sprayed with a hand piece.

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Painted in German gray, then dry brushed in neutral gray.

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Here is an enlarged image of the carriage.
That's all for today.
 
Hello Namabiiru.
You found a way to use a pencil.
The barrel is painted matte black and rubbed with a pencil after drying to get a real feel. I am painting the carriage now. The barrel will be painted after this.
Thanks for the advice.
Sorry, I was not very clear. The barrel should be painted black or dark grey first (I prefer dark grey), then rubbed with a pencil so give it metallic highlights.
 
Sorry, I was not very clear. The barrel should be painted black or dark grey first (I prefer dark grey), then rubbed with a pencil so give it metallic highlights.
Hello Namabiiru,
No problem.
The barrel is painted matte black and then rubbed with a pencil.
 
Hello Namabiiru,
No problem.
The barrel is painted matte black and then rubbed with a pencil.
Or maybe I'm just bad at reading English. ROTF I just read your post again, and saw that you clearly said you had painted the barrels first.o_O
 
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Barrel painted in matte black.

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I put the barrel on the carriage.

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The metal fittings that hold the gun ears are made from 0.1mm thick copper sheet.

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Once we have some metal fittings to hold the gun ears...

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Black dye treatment.

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Barrel A is as it is painted matte black.
Barrel B is with pencil rubbed on it. This is better.

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I quickly assembled one and attached the breaching rope.
Maybe the rope was a little too thick? I haven't made the gun-tacle yet.
I'll have to make the pulleys for the gun-tacle first.

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This is a comparison of the cannon with a 10 yen coin.
It's about this big.

I knew the rope is too thick. I'll change it later.
 
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The breaching rope I made last time was too thick, so I attached a thinner rope than that.
I think it matches better.

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You seem to be comfortable with it. I'll make the other 25 to match this one.

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Rub the barrel with a pencil, set it on the carriage, and glue the metal fittings that restrain the gun ears in the red arrow area.
Do this 25 times.

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This is the result of 25 times done.
The next step is to attach the breaching rope.

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To attach the white arrow ring pin, I drilled 25 holes in the carriage and stuck the ring pin in the holes while applying superglue.
This process took up my whole morning.

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Attach a ring pin to the end of the breaching rope and tie it with a thin string.

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Thread the breeching rope through the ring pin on the left side of the carriage.

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Wrap the breaching rope around the protrusion behind the barrel,
Wrap it around the underside through the top ring,
rope to the right side.

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The breaching rope is passed through the ring on the right side of the carriage and a ring pin is attached to the end.

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Tie the end of the rope with a thin string with a ring pin attached.

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The thin threads are cut and the bleaching rope is ready to be attached.
This process is done 25 times.
I had to do this tedious work from noon.

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The required number of cannon guns, 22, finally have breaching ropes.
The 4 cannons behind are spares.
 
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Gun Tacle.
Now that the breeching rope is attached, the next step is to make the gun-take-coil, but to do this, first the pulleys have to be made.
We need 44 first pulleys and 44 second pulleys.
I'll make the pulleys for this.

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This image shows the gun-tails from the construction of the 1/72 Black Pearl.
Compared to the illustration above, it's quite deformed, but the pulleys can't be made any smaller. Deformation can't be helped.
You need 44 pieces of the same thing as this.
ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー

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■Making the first and second pulleys ■
Using a 2mm x 2mm square bar of cypress wood, a groove was dug with a Proxxon super circular saw and a 0.5mm hole was drilled before cutting them together.

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After cutting them out, separate each piece.
It seems to be faster to make them this way.
But each person is different, so use the method that suits you best.

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A made about 50 second pulleys.
B made about 45 first pulleys.
The required number of pulleys has been completed.
Next, we need to make 88 hooks.

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I used a Proxxon drill stand for pulley drilling.
I bought this drill stand about 14-15 years ago when it was on sale at a discount, but it is not in the current catalog.
I guess they discontinued it.
I made the stand out of wood for ease of use.
I put a drawer in the front and put several drills and accessories inside.
 
It's not your English that's poor--seems more like it is mine. ROTF

Your gun assemblies look amazing!
Hello Namabiiru!
You are a very humble person.
Thank you very much.
I posted this time, but I'm sure it's in funny English, although I'm explaining how to make it or something.
 
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