It's amazing how one's perception of the thing changes with it flipped right-side-up; to be clear - for the better!
Soleil Royal- Re-engineering Artesania Latina's New Kit by NMBROOK
if you go with the amount of rope that the kit provides, would that be a good estimate of how much custom rope you will need?OJ Simpson trial... now that really did drag on
I will get a better idea so I can estimate phases of rigging when I have yards and masts made up. I haven't even got as far as working out the heights yet, just the base diameters of the masts, 15mm,12mm and 10mm respectively. Mainmast is fat at 1200mm diameter on the original !
Hopefully the kit designer gives you extra...
It would if the kit's masting was correct, the masts are wrong and the spars are way too narrow, I have to start from scratch with these and follow rules of the Period.Obviously the model is now quite a bit longer than the kit plus also the mast positions have been changed as well to reflect these rules.
sounds like it is not a very good kit.
are you making your own ropes?
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Kit is as good as you make it. There're very few good kits out of the box(and pricey). When some people modify them final result can be compared to best scratch builds. Nigel's and Hubac's Soleil Royal are best examples
thank you.
I bought the kit for the castings, etch and bulkheads all the rest is scratch. I knew what I was doing when I bought the kit and exactly what I was using. OOTB this kit is OK and makes a nice model with care although the kit rigging thread is complete garbage.
The castings though are fabulous, look at how much a casting only set is for Sergal's Soleil Royal and they are from well worn patterns.
All Rope will be from Ropes of Scale
The castings though are fabulous, look at how much a casting only set is for Sergal's Soleil Royal and they are from well worn patterns.
All Rope will be from Ropes of Scale
I understand. I have yet to see a kit that has good rigging thread. I don't know why they just don't provide polyester. maybe it's a cost thing
It's DEFINITELY a cost thing. Kit designs are simplified for manufacturing ease and cost cutting. That's precise why we builders need to research and add details, even simple ones.
i can reduce the fusiness somewhat by using beeswax on the cotton thread, but you still don't get a nice rope showing the Z or S pattern.
Bees wax is the traditional treatment for cotton line, but yes, it does reduce the visibility of the strand pattern. I'm starting to use poly exclusively because it retains the strand texture, has elasticity so line which are rigged with tension, like stays and shrouds, do not go slack with changes in temperature and humidity. It's hard to lock knots down with glue, however, and is stiffer than natural fiber lines, so loose lines cannot have their catenary curves formed using PVA glue. Applying heat using hot air to take the stresses which cause curling and stiffness from poly line is risky, because it can melt suddenly and part if too much heat is applied. No rigging line material is optimal under all conditions.
I am using poly thread for the rigging in my current model, the Bismarck, and I see what you mean about locking the knots, however CA glue seems to work the best for me. I am somewhat reluctant to use heat because of the toxic fumes and ruining the line so I will stick to the glue method, I think
I also find a tiny dab of thin CA glue on knots in poly rope works well.Because the material does not full absorb the glue like cotton does, these areas should not become brittle and break like what can happen when you use CA on cotton rope
I have now made a start on the remaining gunports which when complete will allow me to determine the top profile of the hull.
Middle gun deck is carried out as before using a former and linings packed where required to fit the former.
The circular upper ports were lined by setting boxwood blocks into the hull that were predrilled with a 10mm end mill in my large mill.The blocks were overthick so that they could be plumb and parallel to the keel. When the glue has dried, these are profiled inside and out flat with the hull.
Pictures show one area ongoing, this is going to take a while.....
Middle gun deck is carried out as before using a former and linings packed where required to fit the former.
The circular upper ports were lined by setting boxwood blocks into the hull that were predrilled with a 10mm end mill in my large mill.The blocks were overthick so that they could be plumb and parallel to the keel. When the glue has dried, these are profiled inside and out flat with the hull.
Pictures show one area ongoing, this is going to take a while.....
Excellent point, re: CA and cotton.
A small progress update.
All gunport holes cut for now (more to come later higher up in the hull). Several small drills were harmed in the cutting of these
All circular port boxwood inserts installed and faired to the hull inside and out.
Middle row of ports lining ongoing.
All gunport holes cut for now (more to come later higher up in the hull). Several small drills were harmed in the cutting of these
All circular port boxwood inserts installed and faired to the hull inside and out.
Middle row of ports lining ongoing.
Amazing precision. I appreciate the care you take...
Spectacular progress, Nigel!
fabulous. I like your idea about the circular hole inserts.
I also have a question? What is the purpose of the little square openings? Are these skuppers?
I also have a question? What is the purpose of the little square openings? Are these skuppers?