Hey John, seems strange to be sorting out the stern at this late stage. Care to share your strategy??? Or maybe I misunderstand the proper workflow being new to this... Is this a product of revisiting something previously completed?
Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal 1:78 (with hopefully many added details)
Good morning John. Incredibly high modeling standards being set here. Your redo of beautiful gratings is a confirmation of this- respect. Cheers Grant
Daniel, Heinrich: thanks for your votes of confidence mates. – I’m actually enjoying the challenge that this has created (but the frustrations not as well).
Grant: as always thanks for your kind remarks…
Paul; No this area is not a revisit. I “trashed” for-all-intent-and-purposes Sergal’s instructions – Totally inappropriate. First image says it all IMO – Per their instructions booklet – the entire upper section including the stern, transom, and metal decorative bits should be installed – THEN the builder is expected to flip the ship over and continue with first hull planking - Yikes!!
Followed by a few more of their order of instructions
It was always my intention to bash this kit as much as possible. Stern and transom detailing were a new area of thought that was not going to follow kit’s instructions. They were going to be all scratch built in any case – kit’s instructions became moot. Here are some preliminary ideas on how I want this to look.
Work so far - windows obviously just for the images..
on the "to fix" list - these will be much easier lol
Grant: as always thanks for your kind remarks…
Paul; No this area is not a revisit. I “trashed” for-all-intent-and-purposes Sergal’s instructions – Totally inappropriate. First image says it all IMO – Per their instructions booklet – the entire upper section including the stern, transom, and metal decorative bits should be installed – THEN the builder is expected to flip the ship over and continue with first hull planking - Yikes!!
Followed by a few more of their order of instructions
It was always my intention to bash this kit as much as possible. Stern and transom detailing were a new area of thought that was not going to follow kit’s instructions. They were going to be all scratch built in any case – kit’s instructions became moot. Here are some preliminary ideas on how I want this to look.
Work so far - windows obviously just for the images..
on the "to fix" list - these will be much easier lol
Thanks for the explanation, John. An ambitious project but being familiar with your other builds I'm not surprised. It is really fun to watch you guys tear into these kits.
Hi John. Just saw the image you posted on Paul's build. Another great build. Looking forward to going back to the start and working through it. The image you posted on Paul's build has so many loose lines. Why is this?
Hi lakedaisy, Thanks for the nice thoughts.
To your specific question. For me it seemed much easier to completely rig ALL needed lines to yards (leech, clew, bunt, sheet) with sails/blocks pre-installed before attaching any of the yards to their corresponding masts. Hence the mess that you asked about. The Vasa was my first attempt at fully rigging a ship including sails. So, all guesswork on my part. Then starting with the bowsprit, I would go through and loop ropes through appropriate pin rail holes.
Followed to the foremast (starting with its lower sail - and so on. In this way since all lines and all needed blocks had been pre-installed. No need to add lines or blocks to attached yards – Then going through the mess, I went through line by line and ran them to their pin locations.
My second build with sails (complete build log here as SoS) was the Santisima cross section. For that one I also pre-attached all needed lines to easily locate the correct pins for later. Obviously a much easier build to rig, but added the pin location numbers to the lines. Here are a few images of both...
Thanks for your interest. Much appreciated.
To your specific question. For me it seemed much easier to completely rig ALL needed lines to yards (leech, clew, bunt, sheet) with sails/blocks pre-installed before attaching any of the yards to their corresponding masts. Hence the mess that you asked about. The Vasa was my first attempt at fully rigging a ship including sails. So, all guesswork on my part. Then starting with the bowsprit, I would go through and loop ropes through appropriate pin rail holes.
Followed to the foremast (starting with its lower sail - and so on. In this way since all lines and all needed blocks had been pre-installed. No need to add lines or blocks to attached yards – Then going through the mess, I went through line by line and ran them to their pin locations.
My second build with sails (complete build log here as SoS) was the Santisima cross section. For that one I also pre-attached all needed lines to easily locate the correct pins for later. Obviously a much easier build to rig, but added the pin location numbers to the lines. Here are a few images of both...
Thanks for your interest. Much appreciated.
Absolutely beautiful work John.
Good morning. You build quality ships/cross section John.
With a little bit of jiggling with the ornaments,I wonder if it is possible to increase the height of the lower row of arches John? It is the one thing that looks a little off on this kit.If the small openings were at the top and the larger on the row below, it would make more sense aesthetically
BTW,very early untouched version of this kit currently on Ebay with super crisp castings.Shame it would cost me over £2K by the time I got it to the UK as it is in Japan
Kind Regards
Nigel
Nigel thanks for looking in and adding your always sage advice, Though I'm not quite sure what you're suggesting in this case?
Regards,
Regards,
Taller windows in the outer skin of the lower gallery
NIgel, Think that I understand. Here are the conunbroms however. I thought to add some 2mm framing around the kit provided windows.
But, that created problems that I did not foresee, as I will use the new kit provided bits that wrap around the galleries.
SO now removing these added frames fitting proportions become disabled -- and will also need to revisit the gold foil that has become damaged.
But now all will should "properly" fit together.
Also, these windows will be all but almost invisible after attaching the bits that cover almost all window details - Will also build four doors which
will further hide windows even more.
But, that created problems that I did not foresee, as I will use the new kit provided bits that wrap around the galleries.
SO now removing these added frames fitting proportions become disabled -- and will also need to revisit the gold foil that has become damaged.
But now all will should "properly" fit together.
Also, these windows will be all but almost invisible after attaching the bits that cover almost all window details - Will also build four doors which
will further hide windows even more.
Regarding outer skin I did have on my mind enlarging the six openings per side - It would indeed make a nice difference. Thanks for pointing it out.
Very easy alteration
Regards,
Very easy alteration
Regards,
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Hi all,
Very minor work in progress all thanks to Nigel; Yes, window openings (I plan to add "mika") will look much nicer larger framed for lower balcony/galleries – Thanks!!
Also, thanks to Nigel who sent me a very nice PM – I’m replacing all the previous out-of-scale gratings. I sort of new they were but ignored it lol
That said, I’ve looked through the reference books that I have, but can’t determine if there is a proper way to install gratings. Should the full-length looking timbers run longitudinally with the deck, or does it matter either way? Thanks for any advice.
Very minor work in progress all thanks to Nigel; Yes, window openings (I plan to add "mika") will look much nicer larger framed for lower balcony/galleries – Thanks!!
Also, thanks to Nigel who sent me a very nice PM – I’m replacing all the previous out-of-scale gratings. I sort of new they were but ignored it lol
That said, I’ve looked through the reference books that I have, but can’t determine if there is a proper way to install gratings. Should the full-length looking timbers run longitudinally with the deck, or does it matter either way? Thanks for any advice.
John
The "full length" battens run along the length of the ship, the ledges run perpendicular to the ship's centreline
The larger windows are a massive aesthetic improvement over stock IMHO
The "full length" battens run along the length of the ship, the ledges run perpendicular to the ship's centreline
The larger windows are a massive aesthetic improvement over stock IMHO
Morning,
Nigel as always - thanks again..
Just sort of “thinking to myself” here. Very tempted to add window "glass" to the outer gallery openings (both sides (upper and lower) as well as to the stern backside. That noted, just adding mica without any window frames would make each single window pane out of scale. So plans A-D in progress...
Plan “B” add house window screen material Hmmm?? Got a few samples from local hardware store.
Plan “C” – but glimpsing through the openings would reveal unfinished work on the inside – So now also attempting to fabricate an inner sleeve covering that will cover the cut mica and screens. Need to also think about small inner planking details?….
Plan “D” may just not add windows at all – will see how that first one I’m working on comes out. If I break the first very thin veneer – may give up on this bit…hahaha Here are a few images of my "thinking"
Cheers,
Nigel as always - thanks again..
Just sort of “thinking to myself” here. Very tempted to add window "glass" to the outer gallery openings (both sides (upper and lower) as well as to the stern backside. That noted, just adding mica without any window frames would make each single window pane out of scale. So plans A-D in progress...
Plan “B” add house window screen material Hmmm?? Got a few samples from local hardware store.
Plan “C” – but glimpsing through the openings would reveal unfinished work on the inside – So now also attempting to fabricate an inner sleeve covering that will cover the cut mica and screens. Need to also think about small inner planking details?….
Plan “D” may just not add windows at all – will see how that first one I’m working on comes out. If I break the first very thin veneer – may give up on this bit…hahaha Here are a few images of my "thinking"
Cheers,
My plan for these windows back in the day was to create a large glazing "sheet" to cut the windows from.Somewhere kicking about at home is an etched brass sheet of diamond mesh I planed to lay on a flat level surface covered with greaseproof paper.I then planned on covering the mesh in a thin layer of "clear as glass" casting epoxy.This will give crystal clear windows with a flat surface so you would not loose optical clarity through refraction.
The finished result was the mesh would be embedded in resin with a total thickness of around 1mm.As I stopped work on my build,I never got around to trying it but in theory it should work.I did plan on blackening the mesh first rather than painting it black as it is superfine and I would loose that with a layer of paint.
Just giving you another option
The finished result was the mesh would be embedded in resin with a total thickness of around 1mm.As I stopped work on my build,I never got around to trying it but in theory it should work.I did plan on blackening the mesh first rather than painting it black as it is superfine and I would loose that with a layer of paint.
Just giving you another option
Nigel,
Your solution is certainly more accurate - allowing for the window panes to seem properly attached to their metal framings. Given that the
fiberglass window screen material (I plan on using) is so thin, as to be almost flat - I will try that first - I also purchased a bottler of Tamiya X-22 clear coat -
I will try to thinly brush some over the screen and mica mineral glass - maybe then the glass and frames will "appear" properly attached to the small window panes.
All to be determined - right now continuing work on the upper gallery deck framing, and planking (had to scratch build that frame as well)
Thanks for your interest as well as your always sage advice -
Regards,
Your solution is certainly more accurate - allowing for the window panes to seem properly attached to their metal framings. Given that the
fiberglass window screen material (I plan on using) is so thin, as to be almost flat - I will try that first - I also purchased a bottler of Tamiya X-22 clear coat -
I will try to thinly brush some over the screen and mica mineral glass - maybe then the glass and frames will "appear" properly attached to the small window panes.
All to be determined - right now continuing work on the upper gallery deck framing, and planking (had to scratch build that frame as well)
Thanks for your interest as well as your always sage advice -
Regards,
Sort of back-to back postings. This is a fix that was so needed. All deck gratings were so out of scale. grrr...So replaced them.
Thanks to the so kind member that suggested that I fix this lol...that would be Nigel (NMBROOK)
May leave this one as is - still thinking
After spending north of $60 USD back and forth with Cornwall in the UK - had to settle for slight size variations. yikes.
I wanted to have them all of the size that is superimposed below (1.5)mm - but after several attempts to get the same 1.5 mm size gratings that would fit the existing openings from different vendors - turns out that 1.5mm from Amati and Caldercraft are actually not both the same 1.5mm that one would expect. had to give up, redundant orders and just settle for these 1mm bits that would cut to proper size for these four gratings. Oh well!!
Nonetheless certainly an improvement - Nigel thanks for your advice lol
Thanks to the so kind member that suggested that I fix this lol...that would be Nigel (NMBROOK)
May leave this one as is - still thinking
After spending north of $60 USD back and forth with Cornwall in the UK - had to settle for slight size variations. yikes.
I wanted to have them all of the size that is superimposed below (1.5)mm - but after several attempts to get the same 1.5 mm size gratings that would fit the existing openings from different vendors - turns out that 1.5mm from Amati and Caldercraft are actually not both the same 1.5mm that one would expect. had to give up, redundant orders and just settle for these 1mm bits that would cut to proper size for these four gratings. Oh well!!
Nonetheless certainly an improvement - Nigel thanks for your advice lol
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OOPS needed to revisit post - images had not properly uploaded
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