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Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal 1:78 (with hopefully many added details)

Noted - will follow up with what I have found to be the PERFECT adhesive that is ALSO totally forgiving it the metal part attached to wood needs to be
removed for any reason. It leaves absolutely on evidence behind.
I will remove one of the metal parts in order to demonstrate a good example of the glue..
PS: I have used this glue for all three of my model; Vasa, Santisima and current project.
 
oldflyer said:
Hi,
So base has been made. Looks just perfectly sized. It came sanded - as expected, I added a nice coat of Watco Natural - really warmed up the wood. But, MY Mistake, I was not totally clear with instructions to the woodshop. I wanted thinner looking caulking, and double, not single plank treenails. Still I'm altogether very happy with the results.

Now, need to determine how to secure ship to the base along with those Pegasus horses (I had them "antiqued" looking a long time ago). Then will have the plexiglass cover sized and made to fit.

Stern flag is still a work in progress. I prefer the blue flag, but think that the white kit provided example is more correct??. The blue double sided blue flag is from Amati - --- Always thank for dropping by :)

Regards

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A base made like deck planking... now that is a novel approach to making a model base! Looks great too!
oldflyer said:
Hi all,

Thanks so much for your likes ---

Stern flag is done. I chose the Segal kit included example. Some images.
Next up is designing a framing on which to set the ship onto its base platform.

Regards,

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Wow.. the flag really looks great!

As for Mike Dowling's question on bonding metal decorations to wood, I have used medium viscosity CA glue, but if you are patient, you can use 5 minute epoxy, which bonds better and the glue joint is flexible compared to CA.
 
Mike Dowling said:
So my friend, are you going to tell me what this wonder substance is or am I supposed to guess?
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OK - Noted was working on a proper "sales pitch" :)

Goop -- best adhesive that I have found to be Perfect for so many applications in this hobby.

CAUTIONS

1) if you use too much Good Luck trying to later remove the part that was attached. This adhesive is super serious it holds forever…..only very little is needed. Think - if you use too much - permanent!! - and will adhere vertically in a few seconds as well - perfect - So using just a little will allow for, if needed, later part removal.

2) also works perfectly for wood to wood - NOT for planks, but for adding bits to a deck or for attaching hull cannon door hinges to deck - Perfect adhesive. So many useful options. CA does NOT allow for any mistakes!!! and leaves scars....

3) I you later need to remove a part - just slowly pull part away Goop will also remove itself as you pull part way - and as shown in images - again little needs to be used in the first place.

4) if you used too much and its visible - only after complete drying (think overnight) - just use Exacto knife to cut away, or just slowly pull excess away
leaves absolutely no visible residue on wood or metal.

5) super messy to use - needs a small “something” for applications. See image

6) excellent for so many applications --- mostly GOODBY to CA Gel or otherwise. PS not for ropes!! PS: YES CA, and wood glue are also always my "to use" adhesives....perfect when needed.

7) Goop is the most perfect and forgiving adhesive that I have ever used -- Oh and I have used this for other purposes as well around the home.

All 600+ Sovereign decorations - All hull gun door hinges to hull, + many wood to wood bits on deck were all Goop attached.


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Good luck !!
 
At last !! and, thank you, I might well give that a try. Next question. How did you bend the cast parts to fit the curves of the body? The makers show a picture of the part to be fitted in a vice about to be hit with a hammer. Is this really the only way?
 
Mike Dowling said:
At last !! and, thank you, I might well give that a try. Next question. How did you bend the cast parts to fit the curves of the body? The makers show a picture of the part to be fitted in a vice about to be hit with a hammer. Is this really the only way?
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MIke be VERY careful if you are asking about the Sergal Sov. Metal bits. All of my solid bronze bits were from the vintage kit - that I bought from a seller at MSW. easily bendable and, as I have bored too many with my comments SO MUCH better castings in the vintage kit than what IMO Sergal has the nerve to sell today....

Those solid bronze vintage bits are (were) very pliable so bent easily with plyers, or fingers depending on the part. The current Sergal kit has terribly downgraded its metal bits by also including white metal as a part of its castings. Hence needing a hammer - I guess?.
PS: I tried bending a current kit's bit sometime back using two pliers - part broke in half.
 
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