Steam powered wooden Drifter trawler, Formidable LT100, 1/20 scale by neptune

Hello John,
I wait for the book too and will have to think a bit about the scale
At 1/33 is on the small size for steam engine
I am inspired of your build and the hull is awesome .
Just waiting for your progress.
Kind regards,Daniel
 
neptune said:
G'day Rich, as I was saying to Jim, the original drifters usually had two or three coats of hot tar applied to the hulls, so you wouldn't see much of the planking anyway, it would be different if I was building it as a Presentation model with parts of the hull left open, then maybe I would leave it as bare wood, but seeing as it will probably end up on the pond, I will be glassing and painting her,

best regards John,
Click to expand...
If you stay with the original type of hull finish it will give the life-like dimension to the working boat making its way about the pond/harbor. Best of luck in how you proceed. Rich (PT-2)
 
badras-khan said:
Finally my book arrived today! There are a lot of ilustrations and info to read and understand.
Kind regards,Daniel
Click to expand...
Now you can stay up late reading. Hopefully the late night light will not keep others awake who want to sleep. I am sure that your findings will find their way into your model. Rich (PT-2)
 
Hello Rich,
It is very good to have a source of details when you work a model ,I found it on my way to build Janet.I started with only some distant photos and very little other sources: a tv documentary from the time was refitted ,and some interesting things had not been found in this film.
If I reach the Portsmouth museum again I will be bolder and ask the curators permission to photo the interior of the ship and the middle where is the engine and controls.Maybe bring a ruler with me too!
Pity on the last visit I dedicated more time to victory -and observed Janet on the way out .
The book is awesome and light a lot of details what plans are not covering .
Kind regards,Daniel
 
badras-khan said:
Hello Rich,
It is very good to have a source of details when you work a model ,I found it on my way to build Janet.I started with only some distant photos and very little other sources: a tv documentary from the time was refitted ,and some interesting things had not been found in this film.
If I reach the Portsmouth museum again I will be bolder and ask the curators permission to photo the interior of the ship and the middle where is the engine and controls.Maybe bring a ruler with me too!
Pity on the last visit I dedicated more time to victory -and observed Janet on the way out .
The book is awesome and light a lot of details what plans are not covering .
Kind regards,Daniel
Click to expand...
I recall seeing a documentary about a steam tug boat a year ago. Maybe it was the same that you refer to above. Took some time and work to get the pressure up to turn the shaft and slowly get to work. Have fun with your boat. Rich (PT-2)
 
Hello John I have to ask for your oppinion
I reach a crossroad at the building of Janet and have some doubts.
If you have time to see my last photos in build log.
I have 3 plans
Plan A will be steam and clamp and try to make the keel straight
Plan B will be to sand on a part and put some wood on the other part
Plan C is to cut the part and glue a new bit of wood and put some planks over
Kind regards
Daniel
 
badras-khan said:
Hello John I have to ask for your oppinion
I reach a crossroad at the building of Janet and have some doubts.
If you have time to see my last photos in build log.
I have 3 plans
Plan A will be steam and clamp and try to make the keel straight
Plan B will be to sand on a part and put some wood on the other part
Plan C is to cut the part and glue a new bit of wood and put some planks over
Kind regards
Daniel
Click to expand...
Plan C sounds like what was a likely keel repair in old historic times with a replacement keel section being scarfed in. Best of luck with your work. Rich (PT-2)
 
Here we are again, it doesn't seem like a month since I last posted, my Admiral has been poorly so I had to put the ship aside for awhile, I managed to get a couple of hours in today, just after my last post I have managed to give her two coats of fibre glass and resin and i have also started adding thiner strips to the top planks because in reality they were a bit thicker than the lower planks, see pics below,

256.jpg
View from the bow,
Before fibre glassing I covered each side of the hull with body filler and gave
the hull a good sanding to make sure everything was fair,


257.jpg
and from the stern,

258.jpg
First two of the top three planks attached, the top three planks should be 4" thick the next plank should be 3" thick
and the ones below that should be 2 1/4", and then there should be three planks at the turn of the bilges 3" thick,


259.jpg
This shows the three top planks attached, they have to be sanded down and tapered into the bow a little bit, I'm still debating with myself whether to attach the fourth plank and the
ones at the turn of the bilges, all these planks should have been attached during the hull planking process, but I
missed it at the time, ah well we will se how it goes,
thank you for looking,

best regards John,

.
 
Last edited:
neptune said:
Here we are again, it doesn't seem like a month since I last posted, my Admiral has been poorly so I had to put the ship aside for awhile, I managed to get a couple of hours in today, just after my last post I have managed to give her two coats of fibre glass and resin and i have also started adding thiner strips to the top planks because in reality they were a bit thicker than the lower planks, see pics below,

View attachment 258196
View from the bow,
Before fibre glassing I covered each side of the hull with body filler and gave
the hull a good sanding to make sure everything was fair,


View attachment 258197
and from the stern,

View attachment 258198
First two of the top three planks attached, the top three planks should be 4" thick the next plank should be 3" thick
and the ones below that should be 2 1/4", and then there should be three planks at the turn of the bilges 3" thick,


View attachment 258199
This shows the three top planks attached, they have to be sanded down and tapered into the bow a little bit, I'm still debating with myself whether to attach the fourth plank and the
ones at the turn of the bilges, all these planks should have been attached during the hull planking process, but I
missed it at the time, ah well we will se how it goes,
thank you for looking,

best regards John,

.
Click to expand...
That is a very nice smooth fiberglass coating. Rich (PT-2)
 
QUOTE="PT-2, post: 194071, member: 9428"]
That is a very nice smooth fiberglass coating. Rich (PT-2)
[/QUOTE]

Thank you Rich, I picked a couple of nice cool damp days for each coating, the resin takes longer to set when it's cooler and you have more time to work with it, so I know the hull is completely waterproof, I won't say more we all know what happened to a certain unsinkable ship,
Best regards John,
 
I had a little bit of trouble a couple of weeks ago, I was preparing to start cutting wood for the Cover boards and my Proxxon Fkse decided that it had had enough and gave up the ghost, I got in touch with a Proxxon supplier but still have not heard anything about how much it would cost for a motor and a variable speed control board, so after waiting for a week I went on ebay to see what they had to offer and I came across this Hyuda mini table saw, it is virtually the same as the Variable Speed Proxxon, see following pics,

3.jpg


5.jpg

Two front views, I bought one of these approx ten years ago, the switch packed in just before the Proxxon gave up the ghost and i am waiting for a new switch to arrive,

6.jpg
This is the fence that comes with the saw,

7.jpg
and on the saw,


8.jpg
close up,


9.jpg
The mitre, fences push stick and the blade guard,

10.jpg
the saw comes with three blades, a 36 tooth carbide, a 24 tooth carbide and a super sharp steel blade see next pic,

11.jpg
the super sharp blade, I've had no trouble with the previous Hyuda apart from the switch problem, and this saw takes the same size blades as the proxxon, ie 10mm shaft, it also uses the same toothed drive belt,

I paid AUD $300 for it with free postage and it arrived within four days, so hopefully I will be back to cutting wood soon,

best regards John,

.
 
While I was on ebay I also came across these little saw blades, I used to buy them from Mitre 10 hardware store but they stopped selling them, they are slightly smaller than the proxxon blades, the proxxon are 85mm x 1.7 mm, these are 76 mm x 1.2mm, they cut beautifully,

20211007_212842 (2).jpg
The Worx 76mm x 1.2mm blade.

20211007_212957 (3).jpg
and the worx blade laid over the top of the 85mm blade,

20211007_212618 (2).jpg
I bought four of them for AUD $40 including postage,

20211007_213537.jpg
and my other Hyuda saw waiting for a new switch,

thanks for looking, hope this helps someone out,

best regards john,
 
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