Steam powered wooden Drifter trawler, Formidable LT100, 1/20 scale by neptune

I think, that a lot of us have pet(s) and can understand your feelings about the loss very well.
We lost three years ago our mix Shila - after some time whithout a dog we decided two years ago for a new family member, our Lagotto Vanda and since 3 weeks a new puppy, our Chihuahua Nuka.
You will see, when the time is ready ..... and if it is time for .....
Keep care my friend - my thoughts are with you
 
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The steering compartment hatch glued in place, on the original boat this was flush with the deck, but with me having to access the steering servo and linkages I decided to raise it to make sure it is water tight, this will probably be reduced in height once the deck has been planked,

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another view,

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and with the hatch cover in place, as I said earlier once the deck planking is installed then I could reduce the height some more, I need to get all the hatches in place for when I start the planking,

best regards john,
 
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I wanted to do something else as a bit of a change so I decided to have a go at transforming the double ended boat into the transom sterned boat, I don't know how it will turn out, here I am cutting the stern off, I had already done this once, you can see the cut line in front of the saw but I reglued it and am now recutting at a slightly different angle, actually the angle didn't change all that much,

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after gluing on a new transom, I will discard the resin thwarts and make new wooden ones,

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another view,

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and a couple of views of where she will sit,

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she is a little bit shorter than she should be, any comments or idea's welcome,

thanks for looking in,

best regards john,
 
neptune said:
View attachment 288589
I wanted to do something else as a bit of a change so I decided to have a go at transforming the double ended boat into the transom sterned boat, I don't know how it will turn out, here I am cutting the stern off, I had already done this once, you can see the cut line in front of the saw but I reglued it and am now recutting at a slightly different angle, actually the angle didn't change all that much,

View attachment 288590
after gluing on a new transom, I will discard the resin thwarts and make new wooden ones,

View attachment 288591
another view,

View attachment 288595
and a couple of views of where she will sit,

View attachment 288596
she is a little bit shorter than she should be, any comments or idea's welcome,

thanks for looking in,

best regards john,
Click to expand...
Hi John,

Great to see you back on deck, wonderful progress.
Certainly a lot easier making a work boat the way you have, overall I would say the work boat looks great. Although in the last photo it looks like the aft section of the capping rail lifts up, it might only be an optical illusion.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Stevedownunder said:
Hi John,

Great to see you back on deck, wonderful progress.
Certainly a lot easier making a work boat the way you have, overall I would say the work boat looks great. Although in the last photo it looks like the aft section of the capping rail lifts up, it might only be an optical illusion.

Cheers,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Thank you Stephen, its good to be back at the building again, I made a start on the deck planking, nothing grand just straight forward planking,

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i made a start with a slightly wider plank that sits astride the middle of the deck so as to be able to sit the centre bollards on it,

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Bow view,

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its just about time to start nibbing the planks, dont know if I will or not at the moment,

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closer view,

best regards John.
 
Great to see the deck planking John commencing John. I was just wondering if a fishing vessel like that would have had nibbed planks. What do the plans/drawings/photographs show?
 
I never realised how big this ship is. But looking to these pictures and seeing the pencil laying on the deck. Yes this is not something to show on the chimney top. Or you must have a big one.
 
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I started plating the superstructure today, I attached a plate to each side,

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then i cut two more plates that go from the center of the wheel house front, one each for port and starboard they come around the front and overlap the plates on the side by a small amount,

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a view of the plate attached to the rear of the wheel house,


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a closer look, I glued a small strip of copper down the middle of where the two front plates meet,


best regards John,
 
Stevedownunder said:
Wow that's a lot of progress John,

Looks like you did some caulking on the stern, what did you use?

The riveting looks great.

She is coming along in leaps and bounds. Thumbsup

Cheers,
Stephen.
Click to expand...

G'day Steve, thanks for the comments, are you meaning the planks when you say about the caulking, if so I used a permanent black marker pen, I just ran the pen along one side of the planks,

Best regards John,
 
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The sides of the galley after plating,

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Plating the engine room casing,

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another view after attaching the top plates to the casing,

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General view of the plating,

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I'm not too happy with the plating on the back of the galley, I got the lines of rivets out of line, but there are two doors that go on here so I might see what it will look like with the doors in place before changing anything,

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and how she is looking at the present time, just a little bit more plating and some trims to attach,

thank you for looking in,

best regards John,
 
badras-khan said:
Hello John,
What tool you use for the rivets?
And the copper foil is at what thickness?
looking very good
Kind regards,Daniel
Click to expand...

G'day Daniel, here are some pics of what i use for the rivets,

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They are called ponce wheels, dress makers use them for transferring patterns onto material, you can get them in different sizes, or you can make your own which is what I have done on the bottom one, I used a cog out of an old clock,

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For these rivets I used this one with the larger spokes,

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You just decide where you want the rivets and lay a rule on the copper then run the tool along the line,

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and on the opposite side you have your rivets,

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I choose to use large panels at a time, but if you want you can just make smaller panels like this one, the thickness of the copper is .125mm

hope this helps you,
 
While we are talking about making copper plates I will hijack my own thread and post some more pics of making copper plating for under the waterline on the old sailing ships,


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copper plating, I started off with a roll of thin copper shim,


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I then used a dress makers ponce wheel to mark the nails, I opted to only show the nails
around the edges,

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another view, I cut a piece of copper 40 inches long and pinned it to a board, I decided the depth
that I wanted the plates to be and I put a pin at each end to hold the ruler, then ran the ponce
wheel across. then I lowered the pins by the depth I needed and ran the ponce wheel across,
then just kept doing the same till I reached the end of the copper.
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after doing the horizontal lines I then used a square to mark the vertical nail lines at the width I
wanted them to be,

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this shows a complete section,

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I then sliced off the the horizontal strips, I used the ruler again to do this, pinning it in place just
below the nail impressions, to make sure there were no slips. this photo shows how when the strips
are joggled into position they show the brick style of pattern,

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this was a separate strip for going over the keel I used contact adhesive for attaching the copper,


to be continued on the next post,

best regards John.
 
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