Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

[stuglo]

Armaments- to be omitted
I think these are optional for this kind of “open” or admiralty model.
I’ve no experience in turning brass for guns, and not much interest at present in purchasing cannons.
It would probably add several months to the build and I want to press on.

Gun Port Lids
According to TFFM and models used for illustration,lids were only fitted in some of the ports- 1st,for the manger, 8th and 9th, for the captain-the naval priority is noted.
THe 1st is a narrow port so the lid is hung vertically with the hinges on the fore edge.
This and the other Lids are constructed in 2 layers - the outer with (and matching) the run of the hull planks. The inner at right angles.
The total thickness of the lid is the same as the outer hull planking so that, when closed, it is flush with the hull, including any curve.
Our model therefore requires plank 0.53 thick,the width to match the hull planking at each port hole.
Added a bevel on the lower edge to enable closing.
The Inner surface is traditionally painted red.
I thought to delay fitting until after other hull structures so as to avoid damaging them. Thats why the pictures are out of sequence. MISTAKE.
Access is restricted.
Anyway, the hinges came with the other etchings.
A pair of holes above the port hole for hinge insertion, and another pair for the lanyards.
The lanyards are missing from the 1st port Lid (3D rendering) and are ?hidden by the bow structures in the illustration model. I’ve omitted them.

 

[stuglo]

Moldings.
As Monty Python would say “and now for something completely different”
Ornamental strips whose outer surfaces are shaped.

Truck Molding
It covers the seam of the lowest plank of the Lower Counter.
The inner surface needs some shaping to follow the curve- its outer end is rounded where it meets the side of the hull.
Taking a profile of 2.12mm sq.,my first proper opportunity to use the Artesina Latina Scrapers.
I used boxwood and it really is fantastic for this purpose.

Waist Rail
Position on the Sheer Plan
Profile 3x1.2mm. The line or run can be helped by using a temporary thin batten whose upper surface can place and support the Rail. This rail has some interruptions for the Chesstree and Fenders, but I chose to fit the rail continuously, and remove these areas later.

Sheer Rail
Parallel to the waist rail, but larger interruptions for the Channel - I will make them after the Channels are fitted.

 

[stuglo]

The Fore Channel
Wedge-shaped in section-inboard 2.39 tapering to 1.46mm at outboard edge.
Upper surface is horizontal.
Width about 9.54mm. Inner surface curved to fit the hull.
The AFT end is narrower to accommodate the anchor.( Picture shows this was mistakenly first attached at fore end. No prize if you spotted this,just the satisfaction of doing so.)
The fore(leading) edge is S-shaped. Most of the outboard edge is recessed and there are notches cut for the Holding Chains. The position of these I took from my sheer Atalanta plan, as they are not exactly as shown in the scale illustration.
The “recess” will later be filled by a molding.
3 short, reinforcing pins are set into the inboard surface, and matching holes drilled into the hull.
The Channel is attached by PVA on the wood, and CA glue on the pins.The long bolts mentioned were not used and would not be seen.
2 ring bolts are fitted where shown.

The Stool.
A short narrower Channel fitted aft of the Fore Channel, but of similar design.

Main Channel.
Same dimensions of the Fore Channel.
An alternative aft section is suggested which is narrower (smaller dead-eyed ) rather like an attached Stool.
It follows the horizontal curve of the hull, but the wood is flexible and the reinforcing pins are enough to do the job.
Also has 2 ring bolts

Mizzen Channel
Smaller (2.12x1.33mm) and narrower.

Standards
Wooden supports above the larger Channels. Shaped like a hanging knee.
1 mm thick and concave hypotenuse side is chamfered.
Ensure their position doesn't interfere with line of holding chains.

 

[Tobias]

Great coloring, great job

 

[stuglo]

Chesstree.
Vertical molding aft of the Forward Fixed Block.
Upper part has a sheave for the main tackle leading to the fixed block.
(TFFM says “ Sided “ but I;m not sure if this means depth or width or both, so used a square profile 3.18mm)
The part is tapered to about half the depth, and slightly tapered to the lower end.
Idon;t see how to easily taper the molding using the scrapper, so I ignored this latter slight taper.
The upper end is level with the upper surface of (the yet to be fitted ) planksheer.This additional 1.6 is temporarily added.
The lower end reaches the Wale.
The Sheave is 2.65x1.0mm- centered on the center of the FFBlock.
A closed loop of copper wire inserted to mimic the sheave.
Molding shaped with my Artesena Scrapers

Fenders.
A pair of vertical similar to the Chesstree (without a sheave), that protect the side of the ahull and facilitate the raising of barrels. It is therefore situated opposite the Main Hatch.

 

[stuglo]

The Entry Steps.
6 in number, aft of the fenders. Size 17.5x3.71mm.
The inner surface is shaped to allow the upper surface to be horizontal.
The outer and side surfaces are molded.
I took a long strip 3.71x3.18mm, uses the Artesenia scraper for outer shape, and use milling sphere and round file to match the ends to the molding. The lower 2 steps match the colour of the Wales.
I lowered the 2nd step as the Atalanta plan shows it crossing the sweep port- surely not!!!!

 

[stuglo]

Main Studding Sail Boom Irons
These are specialized iron supports fitted to the Main Channels for stowing a spar towed on its outer edge.
Eyestrap- foreward and Gooseneck , aft.
1.6 mm wide, 0.53 tapering to 0.2 thick.
The hole is just 0.75 mm diam. I found making these too difficult and adapted some old port lid hinges. A bit thin but seems OK at this scale.

 

[shota70]

Main Studding Sail Boom Irons
These are specialized iron supports fitted to the Main Channels for stowing a spar towed on its outer edge.
Eyestrap- foreward and Gooseneck , aft.
1.6 mm wide, 0.53 tapering to 0.2 thick.
The hole is just 0.75 mm diam. I found making these too difficult and adapted some old port lid hinges. A bit thin but seems OK at this scale.View attachment 316310View attachment 316311

my dearest friend
I will come to visit you soon,to see your
‏excellent work
shabat shalom

 

[JoeF]

Great work, Well Done.

 

[stuglo]

The Drift Rail.
So-called because where it changes level it drifts.
At the waist, where it is interrupted, it finishes in a scroll expansion called a Hance.
The profile is 2.12x1.3mm, the width of the scroll is 3 times the latter number.
These Hances seem to vary slightly from drawings to models. They need a steady hand and patience . I lack both. I found that anything electric was difficult to control and made a mess. I used a sharp metal point, 2mm files and sandpaper. I was later inspired by seeing my jeweler friend using an old small hacksaw .
I’ve uploaded pictures of several tries and am not sure if I won't revisit again.

 

[stuglo]

Lower Counter Rail
At the junction of the Lower and Upper Counters.
2.39x1.6mm molding, profile similar to the Truck Molding (but thinner).
The boxwood took the compound curves easily without special shaping to allow it to lie.
It is noted that the lower surface sits 0.53mm below the knuckle.

Upper Counter Rail
The upper edge is level with the knuckle of the upper counter
It is slightly less deep at 2.12mm but with a similar profile as the Lower C.R.

 

[stuglo]

Forecastle Deck Beams
Already made so as to build and fix the Bulkhead/
To re cap- 3.5x2.65 mm rounding up 3.18 over 14 cm length.
They are lighter as they carry less load and similarly have less reinforcement with Carlings and Ledges.
MISTAKES:
I forgot to pre-score the Beams for these, but managed with chisel after fitting. More importantly, I should have noted the requirements of the Cathead (underscoring Beam #2, the seating of the Partners and the Half Hook.
I realised this only after the Knees and Ledges were fitted. I didn’t want to undo everything, so the required work was less clean and accurate than if I did it off-model with the mill.
The #7 Beam is special to form a rabbet for the planking. Instead of an overlarge section, for the model, it is constructed in 3 parts: the normal beam, a protruding lip and a molding at the join between them.
I made the “lip” with a strip 3.3 mm wide, and cut a groove with the lowered blade of the table saw to allow the planks,1.33mm thick, to lie flush. The aft of the lip is chamfered.
Between the overhang of the lip , and the beam, a molding of approx. 1.8x1.0mm

Lodging and Hanging Knees.
Thickness 2.4mm. The arm of the former is 19, the leg of the latter is 17.5 (approx)
The 3D- rendering shows an S shaped Hanging Knee where there is a port, but I couldn't remember doing this before, nor could I see reference in this vol. or in Book 1. The leg, if left straight, was only shortened by a1/4- should have been strong enough in practice.
Can anyone provide information? (Please)

 

[Don Case]

I'm at the same spot on the Discovery1789 so I've been looking at Dan Vada's build a lot. He left out the hanging knees on beam 5 because of the port. Don't know if that solves the problem. On other builds I've noticed that they have canted knees at the ports. Maybe it depends on where the knee is? Like if it's in the middle of the port they leave it out but if it's closer to the edge of the port they cant it.

 

[stuglo]

Forecastle Deck Carlings
They run fore/aft and define the various openings of the deck.
2.12x2.65mm except for the Bowsprit Partner 2.12x3.29mm, to give support to Half Hook and planking as suggested by TFFM.
Noted that no Carlings to support Foremast Partner.This is relatively thin but surely the forces on it are not much less than the lower decks even if the weight on the deck is less.

Forecastle Deck Ledges
Similarly, few in number, frame the steam gratings and galley chimney cowl.
1.86x1.6mm

 

[stuglo]

Bowsprit and Foremast Partners.
Planks, 1.06mm thick, sit flush on rabbets of respective Beams.(these rabbets would have been made on the mill before fixing the beams, but to unglue everything was a bit too much)
Holes for mast, both less than the 9.4mm suggested- final sizing and position I think better left until after planking.
The Bowsprit hole, angled according to plan.

Half Hook
Basis for planking and waterways, between the Bowsprit Partner and 1st Beam.
2.12mm thick and rabbeted on adjoining structures.

 

[stuglo]

The Cathead.
This requires cutting through the hull-I hate “destroying” what I’ve built. Mistakes not always amenable to invisible repair and I haven’t found a way to turn the clock back.
The inboard section is angled upwards and curves outwards relative to the straight outboard section. This ”Tail” section is slightly tapered.
It passes beneath the 2# Beam and 3# Beam, where it rests against the Foretopsail Bitt Pin.
Where it passes beneath the beams, the beam and cathead are notched.
( something else I forgot to prepare before fixing the beams. This was remedied but again, better to do “off” model.)
The outboard part seems rectangular rather than square in section according to the pattern given in TFFM, but the decorative cap is square.
When fitted, the upper surface of the sub-deck section should be horizontal, which gives the angle of the outer section - this appears about 15 deg.
I took a blank of 95x15x10 mm, stuck the cutout patterns, and shaped the piece.
The notching or scoring of the Cathead and beams marked by laying the former on top of the beams. The direction of cut for a window through the hull can be made and the lower level and adjoining Lodging Knee, filed down to allow for the angle of the Cathead at this point.
Having milled the scoring in the Cathead, and underscored the beams with chisel and a thin sandpaper strip, I tried to insert the cathead through the hole in the hull.
This was impossible.
***As my wife was in another room, I had no one to blame but myself***
The simplest solution seemed to remove the small section above the opening .
I later checked out Dan Vardas blog/ He had the same problem. His solution was to remove and remake #2 beam. (I don’t check out this blog every time because the quality of the work and ingenuity of his solutions, make me feel most inadequate)
Also I wonder if there should not be a space above the Cathead, to allow for its various ropes.
The pair of Sheave holes toward the outer end of the Cathead.
The Sheave diameter is 4.77mm, 0.73 wide (My holes became oversize during finishing)
The end of the Catshead is finished with a decorative cap- mine didn’t work out as planned. More of that next time

 

[shota70]

The Cathead.
This requires cutting through the hull-I hate “destroying” what I’ve built. Mistakes not always amenable to invisible repair and I haven’t found a way to turn the clock back.
The inboard section is angled upwards and curves outwards relative to the straight outboard section. This ”Tail” section is slightly tapered.
It passes beneath the 2# Beam and 3# Beam, View attachment 318691View attachment 318692View attachment 318693where it rests against the Foretopsail Bitt Pin.
Where it passes beneath the beams, the beam and cathead are notched.
( something else I forgot to prepare before fixing the beams. This was remedied but again, better to do “off” model.)
The outboard part seems rectangular rather than square in section according to the pattern given in TFFM, but the decorative cap is square.
When fitted, the upper surface of the sub-deck section should be horizontal, which gives the angle of the outer section - this appears about 15 deg.
I took a blank of 95x15x10 mm, stuck the cutout patterns, and shaped the piece.
The notching or scoring of the Cathead and beams marked by laying the former on top of the beams. The direction of cut for a window through the hull can be made and the lower level and adjoining Lodging Knee, filed down to allow for the angle of the Cathead at this point.
Having milled the scoring in the Cathead, and underscored the beams with chisel and a thin sandpaper strip, I tried to insert the cathead through the hole in the hull.
This was impossible.
***As my wife was in another room, I had no one to blame but myself***
The simplest solution seemed to remove the small section above the opening .
I later checked out Dan Vardas blog/ He had the same problem. His solution was to remove and remake #2 beam. (I don’t check out this blog every time because the quality of the work and ingenuity of his solutions, make me feel most inadequate)
Also I wonder if there should not be a space above the Cathead, to allow for its various ropes.
The pair of Sheave holes toward the outer end of the Cathead.
The Sheave diameter is 4.77mm, 0.73 wide (My holes became oversize during finishing)
The end of the Catshead is finished with a decorative cap- mine didn’t work out as planned. More of that next time

Dear Stuglo, my Dearst friend
Today I had the privilege of meeting you in person and the amazing model you are creating. I must say that in reality your model and quality work look more beautiful than in the picture. Your meticulousness in the accuracy and quality of the product creates a very fine model. I salute you my dear friend and mentor

 

[stuglo]

Coamings to the Steam Gratings
TFFM refers to how previously made, which like the idiot I am, used the same size strips.
These however are only about ⅔ as wide. This became obvious after seeing again the small size of the gratings.
I used a similar depth however, to allow for the pronounced roundup of the Head Lodges.
The Gratings themselves are also much narrower- too narrow for my thinnest table saw blade.
I used some precut gratings from an old kit that are more to scale.
The overall size and positioning seem to vary amongst patterns, plans and other builds I have seen.
The middle coaming is for the Cowl base. It was a metal plate, but both 3D rendering and D. Vardas show it rounded up similarly to the Gratinga. Therefore, the solid block I used.
This Coaming is shown aligned with those fore and aft, but the diameter of my Cowl, necessitates this to be wider

 

[stuglo]

Forecastle Waterway
Size - max thickness 2.12 with the "flattened “ section 1.33mm to be flush with the planks.
I tried a different method for shaping- scalpels and the Proxxon sanding wand.
This seemed more efficient in time and result.
(not obvious yet, but a contrasting wood used- walnut I think, because it gives me the sneezes!!)

 

[stuglo]

Return to the Bowsprit Step:
I decided to make the uprights separately- the lower part already made and fixed before the upper deck.
These Uprights,are 4.24mm square and height 22mm above the Beam (plans)
They are scored onto the beam so to sit on the top of the Step frame.
The top of the Pins are shaped using a rounded milling piece to form a slight concavity, and the top corners are chamfered.
These uprights are also scored to depth 0.66m to accept a crosspiece-at 13mm above the deck

The Crosspiece
3.45x2.39mm with length 37mm. Chamfered at the edges and slightly scalloped near the ends.

Slits for the Sheaves
Below the crosspiece, a slit is made for a 3.7x1mm sheave
This will be the same be at the level of a sheave 3.71x0.53mm, within a Cheek attached to the side of the Upright.

The Cheek sits on the deck planks, is 1.6mm wide and 8mm high. Rather than make these separately I decided to take a strip, form the pattern along its length, and then cut to the required width (slightly narrower than the uprights).
It is mortised to a depth of 0.6 mm x 4.2mm to take the sheave.(milled)
The top forms a molding (I made with a 1mm milling bit “stepped” across and down.

BRILLIANT !!! except that I made the mortise on the wrong side. The molding should slope outwards !!! Start again.(But the method was good).

I made the sheaves from wood and temporarily glued the assembly in place, I must learn to cut slices from copper rods I recently bought.