Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

Framing the Cabin Lights.
Not for the first time, I found this confusing. Reading ahead, I realized it was also complicated. After several hours of brain strain, I checked out Dan Vardas.( I don’t do this often enough, but his work is so good, I get depressed at my own poor efforts.)
At least I understand, more easily, the steps required.
SILLS.
Short pieces, between the Counter Timbers, sitting just behind the top edge of the Upper Counter Plank, so that it is proud by 1.6mm. These pieces, although straight, are parallel to the Quarter Deck Transom. Used Blanks of 4mm sq.
When fixed, the top surface is made horizontal by file and blade.

Innerside Planking-
This needs to be cut back to form a rebate for fitting the Frame of the lights. Should really know this depth, but haven’t decided how I will make the Lights yet, but guessed at 2mm, and can modify later.
I braced the hull sides before using a chisel and hammer.
Also some alcohol applied to make chiseling and separation easier.

Counter Timber Linings.
The vertical part of the Framing. Thin2422.jpg2a422.jpg strips of 0.5.
Decided to delay until after Frames are made and trial fitted.
 
Rudder Head Trunk
A group of 6 temporary structures that form a wall around the Stern Post and Rudder as they pass through the Great Cabin.
The fore panel fits under the #15 Beam.
The first side panel is angled slightly outward to sit on the Helm Port.They extend upwards to the Quarterdeck above (with the top of the Stern post)-exact height to be adjusted after that deck is made.
The aft panel is made and fitted. This will sit under the Rudder Head Framing or Partner which is 2.6mm thick and flush with the Quarter Deck Transom.
Card Patterns, but I found dry fitting impossible. So I made and glued the fore panel in placefirst. Similarly the first side panel, then the aft and filled the gap.
Decided to forego the black panel effect of the Bulwarks, and used 1mm cherry blanks and 0.5mm beech for contrasting edges.3522.jpg3a522.jpg
 
Internal Counter Planking and Lockers.
Either side of the Rudder Trunk.
A beam, triangular in profile,forms the straight edge for the lids and their hinges. I used a 4.5mm sq. blank, and sanded and scraped to shape. (Should have used a plane as it would have been easier.)
Ensuring it is horizontal, at right angles to an imagined central line, top surface horizontal and lining up with its counterpart,while balancing on the curve of the counter timber, was not easy, but essential
Perhaps fitting a plank first, would have made this easier.
Anyway, “holding” with the PVA glue half dried and sticky, I managed after much frustrating fiddling.
The locker front panel sits (athwartship) atop the deck planking. Its height is such that the lid, flush to the beam, sits on its top edge.
Between the lids, in front of the Rudder Trunk, is a filler panel.
There are also filler panels between the lids and hull. I made these next, but now realise it would be easier to make them after the lids are fitted.
Hinges adapted from leftover port lid hinges from an old kit.
(interesting that the wood of the lids look different although cut from the same piece with the grain in the same direction but fitted upside down.Without lacquer and photo, they looked the same.)4522.jpg4a522.jpg
 
Upper Counter Plank
The uppermost inner counter planking-upon which the Stern Light Sill Cover sits.
Forgot to reread the next page of TFFM which suggests these and other inner planks should be made BEFORE the Rudder Head Trunk. I think this may have caused me more difficulties, fitting10522.jpg the Trunk sides, and there is still access from behind via the still open Counter.

Stern Light Sill Covers
Made in 2 parts.
Aft, between the counter timbers, where it forms a rebate for the Light Frames. Because the depth to be determined after Light Frames are made will be fitted later.
Inner continuous strip, with lip overlapping the upper plank edge with chamfered edge.
Thickness given as 0.8, but scale pattern and ?logic suggests 1.3mm more suitable.
The shape of the curve can be taken from the Quarter Deck Transom pattern.
Because the Rudder Trunk was already fitted, it was made in 2 halves (either side) and a central part, together with the aft section, fitted later.
 
Stern Lights.
Some time ago I mistook the meaning of lights, but was glad to see C.Napeaon Longridge refers to them as “windows”. I checked out his book as I found TFFM confusing. After starting with TFFM, I moved to adapt Dan Vardas’s method and only after I finished, all became clear when re-reading TFFM.
As I (think) I understand, the forepart of the surrounding of the frame, also forms the fore aspect of the frame itself. I.e. the inner sill and side stops hold the glass (or substitute) itself. The aft part of the window frame is made separately, and the window pane “sandwiched '' between this and the aforementioned fore aspect (sill and stops).
The position of these stops, which form a rebate, depends on the frame thickness as these sit flush with the Stern Counter Timbers.
Here I became confused, not realising that the TFFM method avoided inserting the window pain within the window frame.
Anyway, I made the window frame as shown by Dan Vardas.
This is an example where the tools and type of wood really do make all the difference.
I used some Boxwood that I saved for the last 10years.
The frames called for 1x1.8mm strips. I thinned a sheet to 1mm (cried over wasted dust from the Thinesser)
Took a 0.5mm blade from the “baby” table saw (50mm diam) and fitted to the bigger Proxon table saw.(smallest 80x1mm).
Able to set depth to 0.5mm and 0.65 in from fence , cut on full bank, an only after, at 1.8mm from fence, separate the grooved strip.
The resulting cut in the boxwood is so clean, I used it for framing, despite the TFFM making this unnecessary.
10a522.jpg10c522.jpg
 
Stern Lights cont.
As the rebate of the side stops and inner sill depend on the frame thickness, I will fit them after the frame is made.
The frames are not squares. Patterns in card are made individually. A card tab is attached to ease the constant handling to cut and fit.
The final pattern is placed on a flat piece of wood and snuggly surrounded on 3 sides by strips, which are glued to the wood.
. Check pattern is still a snug fit.The pattern is removed and glue allowed to dry.
The jig is oiled to prevent the frame sticking.
My grooved wood is fitted into the jig on the same three sides. The joint is made by removing the “walls” of the groove for 1mm, of one side, so its partner fits.
I used a different glue, because the area of the joint is too small to rely on the usual PVA, and epoxy too viscous and messy.
Glass hates me, so I use some acetate sheet that I have left from a kit, and using the previous patterns, cut to size and insert in grooves. The 4th side of the frame can now be fitted.
The cross pieces that divide the pain are made from the boxwood at 1x0.65mm, and the same Loctite glue is used.
Despite care and the tiniest amount, some will spread to the pain. I was happy to see that this doesn’t stick and can be scraped away.
The lights can be trial fitted. They are surprisingly rigid.
The depth of sill rebate can be confirmed, and the (inner) sill made accordingly.
The lights fitted, the side stops (0.5mm thick) are then fitted from within the hull, and after glue dried, trimmed to Counter Timbers. A covering board is fitted - a counterpart to the Munions that are on their aft aspect and tidy-up the stern framing.
This Loctite glue is one to remember for such small, delicate situations 9522.jpg9c522.jpg9a522.jpg10d522.jpg10e522.jpg9b522.jpg11522.jpg11a522.jpg11b522.jpg
 
Short Break from Model Building.
Difficult, but worthwhile.
2 weeks touring Egypt.
Cairo/Luxor/Nile cruise/Aswan and Abu Simbel
Magical places, not only for history buffs. Wonderful people.
(View at breakfast on the first day, Felucca on the Nile, Abu Simbel and yours truly.)

DSC05583.JPG

DSC05982.JPG

IMG_20220529_102614.jpg
 
stuglo said:
Short Break from Model Building.
Difficult, but worthwhile.
2 weeks touring Egypt.
Cairo/Luxor/Nile cruise/Aswan and Abu Simbel
Magical places, not only for history buffs. Wonderful people.
(View at breakfast on the first day, Felucca on the Nile, Abu Simbel and yours truly.)

View attachment 312779

View attachment 312780

View attachment 312781
Click to expand...

Gorgeous Stuglo, that brings back memories, it's been 7 years for me since we made this trip. I can only recommend everyone to do a Nile cruise.
 
Companion Ladder.
Aft hatch left open to allow fitting and viewing of ladder
Formed as previously. But angle must allow the feet to clear the opening below.
A reminder that the treads are parallel to the deck NOT horizontal.

Range Cleats.
Between and at the level of the Fixed Blocks, fore and aft, and angled fore-up.
They are shaped as modern cleats, 17.5mmlong and 1.6mm wide. Fixed to the Quickwork at the waist of the Hull.

IMG_20220608_135444.jpg
 
Knees to Gangboards.
Support the walkways between the Forecastle and Quarter deck.
A set of 6 either side. These Hanging Knees are 2.12mm thick.
The first 5 have an arm 9mm and leg 17.5 mm- the sixth has a short leg but arm of 17.5mm
The arms are set to allow for the thickness of the gangboard, so the upper surface is level with the top of the Bulwark. Reading ahead, the forecastle planks are 1.33mm - I allowed this for the gangboards.
Also the arms are angled as are the quarter deck beams. Estimating this is not so easy, and I expect some adjustment when the Gangboards are fitted later in the build.

**When fitting the aftmost (6th) Knee, I realised that the Forecastle Bulkhead and Beam was about 4 mm too aft. This was therefore unglued (alcohol) and re-sited in the correct position**

IMG_20220608_130307.jpg
 
Upgrade for Workplace.
My dentist retired. As an old friend he gave me his work table. Dispensed with the air pressure and electrical system (which I now regret) and managed to break the porcelain top (I’m a clumsy bugger ). As the higher instrument table interfered with access from both sides, I removed it and attached it to my work table with a clamp.
The main table can be unlocked, rotated and raised by at least 50cms.
The top is replaced by an MDF board to which my Building Slip is attached by clamps.

IMG_20220613_144209.jpg
 
Stopper Bolts and Top Tackle Eyebolts and Eyebolts around the main mast.
Already fitted -before the cistern hoods- after which is difficult

Gun Tackle and Breeching ringbolts-
These are omitted as I do not intend to fit cannons on this build

Preparing for the Chain and Preventer Bolts.
In order to accurately find their position and angle, temporary (dummy) masts are made to set their angle and mark the height of the hounds.
TFFM gives these heights, and the angles are taken from the profile plans.
Also there are extensions to be made to allow for the Backstays.

****At this point I remembered that I do not intend to mast the ship. Using the Atalanta Sheer Plan, I think the position and angles are adequately shown. Therefore the mast fitting ( the word “dummy” is now significant), was unnecessary.

Note: mizzen mast has no Preventer Plates

IMG_20220609_144834.jpg
 
I worked as Medical Supply in the Air Force, and it seemed we were always tossing out good stuff when newer nice and shiny replacements were purchased.

I did save a few drawer sets from our dental clinic when they got rid of old wood style and went with nicer plastic units.

Maybe he save a few picks or other good dental tools to help you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top