The "Chinese" Harvey

"The bars are only inserted into the capstan barrel when the capstan is being used." That is HUGE info. Much appreciated.

I guess I should at least consider drilling the holes where the bars insert though. I mean, I've got this cool new pin drill (thanks again, Jimsky) that I've never used...

M.
 
mondrasek said:
"The bars are only inserted into the capstan barrel when the capstan is being used." That is HUGE info. Much appreciated.

I guess I should at least consider drilling the holes where the bars insert though. I mean, I've got this cool new drill (thanks again, Jimsky) that I've never used...

M.
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I have more fun discussing model ships on this forum than building model ships. That's why it takes me so long to finish a model. :D
 
mondrasek said:
Do you mean this stuff? View attachment 428598 'Cuase I did not know it even existed (brown, I mean).

M.
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Nope. That is a browning solution meant for use on iron and steel, such as browning the barrel on your Winchester lever action rifle or flintlock to age it.

Here is what you want: BRASS browning solution. <--link
1708205570313.png

Now, if you want to turn brass BLACK, such as for simulating iron cannon barrels when the model barrels are brass, this is used: Brass Black on Amazon

1708205700908.png
 
I have the black. And it took a few tries and a lot of input from SOS to learn how to use it correctly. The brown is now also on the way. Please let me know if it needs a different application method.
 
mondrasek said:
I have the black. And it took a few tries and a lot of input from SOS to learn how to use it correctly. The brown is now also on the way. Please let me know if it needs a different application method.
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As long as the brass part is proper cleaned with denatured alcohol to remove any surface oils, the browning works about the same. If you want a darker brown, leave it in the solution a bit longer. I also had issues with the blackening solution when it was used full strength, because some of the black flaked off. It works better now with a little water dilution and experimentation.
 
Thanks. I think the black gets "crusty" if you leave the brass in the solution too long. At least that is what I learned from someone on SOS (in Sweden) I think. Now I do brass in black oxide after a thorough cleaning and then time it out for exactly 60 seconds in the dip (1:5 solution with water). Sometimes the pieces requires a second dip. But it is DEFFINETELY better to do them slowly IMHO.

M,
 
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mondrasek said:
Thanks. I think the black gets "crusty" if you leave the brass in the solution too long. At least that is what I learned from someone on SOS (in Sweden) I think. Now I do brass in black oxide after a thorough cleaning and then time it out for exactly 60 seconds in the dip (1:5 solution with water). Sometimes the pieces requires a second dip. But it is DEFFINETELY better to do them slowly IMHO.

M,
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I'll give your method a try. Thanks!
 
WOW! That Musicbox took WAY longer than I would have thought! Cool diversion, though! Made by ROKR.

And so back to more serious boating sh**....

Back off the shelf and looking for love is:

IMG_0391.jpeg

FYI I think I'll have some laser printed nameplates made to cover up the rather unimpressive (imo) etched wood on the stand. I just have to CAD it up first. And then Gean will burn it for me. I think. I mean, we go back about 20+ years. And I've never asked him to do anything not work related before. So...?
 
A side rant... MicroMark. Such cool stuff! And I would not know about all of it except that anytime I order anything they always include a physical copy of their paper catalogue. Which I must look at. Because, well, I'm one of us.

And so I was thinking, shouldn't they sponsor (if they are not already and I don't know about it)? I'm thinking about when I used to ride jet ski's and some friends up in Sandusky were in the race circuit. And since they were all sponsored, I could get huge discounts on really nice wetsuits etc. using their names. I wore the meanest gear for someone riding on an inland lake in Ohio!

M.
 
The glue did not hold well enough. Definitely a problem with me and not the glue! And then I started the second try and the needle threader broke! And so we have a dozen needle threaders on order. But REALLY?

In retrospect, that needle threader was from a sowing kit that has been in my travel bag for over 30 years. I guess it and I can agree to break.

M.
 
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I've seen before the little tool you use for making the stays...
Can you (or someone else) explain how these work?
I mean how to fix the rope so it doesn't slide out again? Glue seems logical...

One can make these tools fairly easy...
 
Ponytail said:
I've seen before the little tool you use for making the stays...
Can you (or someone else) explain how these work?
I mean how to fix the rope so it doesn't slide out again? Glue seems logical...

One can make these tools fairly easy...
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The more I have learned about the proper way to run the lines for deadeyes the more I think these jigs cannot be used. Your comment that gluing the ropes seems logical might work. But since glue does not work well with any finish (before or after), I have since been preparing to follow the methods I have seen here on SOS: secure the chain side deadeye first, and then build upwards. Using the jig is likely a fine idea for less than accurate stay/deadeye modeling. But I think I will pass unless more accurate modeling at this scale is beyond me.

M.
 
mondrasek said:
The more I have learned about the proper way to run the lines for deadeyes the more I think these jigs cannot be used. Your comment that gluing the ropes seems logical might work. But since glue does not work well with any finish (before or after), I have since been preparing to follow the methods I have seen here on SOS: secure the chain side deadeye first, and then build upwards. Using the jig is likely a fine idea for less than accurate stay/deadeye modeling. But I think I will pass unless more accurate modeling at this scale is beyond me.

M.
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The new use of the jig is for holding deadeyes for painting. Working great like that!

IMG_0397.jpeg
 
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