The Schooner Bluenose 1921, POF Yuanqing Models 1:72 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Good afternoon, everyone. I have been obsessing somewhat with the color scheme of the fittings on the crosstrees. All the brass I was using started to look like some kind of jewelry, so I first switched everything below the crosstrees to my steel silver gray which was some improvement.

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There was still a disconnect between the brass and silver as well as the twisted wire hooks which never really set well with me. After several experiments with the stropping and hooks I went a 24 ga silver wire which I think you all can see which one looks the best.

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So, after choosing the block on the upper right the following is the results. See what you think.



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I would actually prefer internally stropped blocks with black iron hooks, but I could not find them in the small size needed. I think this look is the best and now I can move on.
I do welcome all opinions as its always serves to expand my ideas.
First of all, a re-do is good for your own peace of mind. And we as viewers have our own opinions.
The silver/gray version looks much better in my opinion. The BN was not a bling-bling yacht, she was a hard worker.
Regards, Peter
 
Good morning Daniel. I’ve been away so played some catch up with your progress. There has been a load of work done and looking good. Your block strips are way better redone. Brass is always an issue and while we can get away with it on many ships not on the BN. Your silver/aluminium/grey colour is way better. The mast bands are so good and definitely looks way better in the silver/grey.
Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Daniel. I’ve been away so played some catch up with your progress. There has been a load of work done and looking good. Your block strips are way better redone. Brass is always an issue and while we can get away with it on many ships not on the BN. Your silver/aluminium/grey colour is way better. The mast bands are so good and definitely looks way better in the silver/grey.
Cheers Grant
Thank you, Grant. Your opinion is much appreciated.
 
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Well @GrantTyler, Grants darn rabbit has me jumping up and down on my deck. I have begun preparing my shroud lines. You can see the served and painted ends that will wrap around the upper dead eyes. I've made a small jig to set the dead eyes at the same distance above the lower dead eyes. I cannot seem to find any close-up shots of real-life Bluenose shroud attachments at the crosstrees. I'm curious about the need for serving on their steel cables around the upper mast. I can only imagine there is a need for protection of the upper mast from steel rubbing on wood. At any rate I have served the wrap around portion. Here's a few shots from the shipyard.

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I've purchased my sail and stitching material and am looking forward to trying out my ideas for this part of the build.
I am quite satisfied with the gray/silver hardware theme with handmade stropping on the blocks. Before long I'll be making some test runs on the sails, so I will certainly need to brush up on the sewing machine.

Hope you enjoy.
 
Well @GrantTyler, Grants darn rabbit has me jumping up and down on my deck. I have begun preparing my shroud lines. You can see the served and painted ends that will wrap around the upper dead eyes. I've made a small jig to set the dead eyes at the same distance above the lower dead eyes. I cannot seem to find any close-up shots of real-life Bluenose shroud attachments at the crosstrees. I'm curious about the need for serving on their steel cables around the upper mast. I can only imagine there is a need for protection of the upper mast from steel rubbing on wood. At any rate I have served the wrap around portion. Here's a few shots from the shipyard.

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I've purchased my sail and stitching material and am looking forward to trying out my ideas for this part of the build.
I am quite satisfied with the gray/silver hardware theme with handmade stropping on the blocks. Before long I'll be making some test runs on the sails, so I will certainly need to brush up on the sewing machine.

Hope you enjoy.
Good morning Daniel
Grants darn rabbit has me jumping up and down on my deck.
ROTF
Wow your serving is perfect. What size thread are you using for the shroud and serving? On my Victory I always thought my serving line was too thin? I love the painted part of the shroud - I have never seen this before. I’m not sure if this will be overpowering (visually) once all the shrouds are done but looks so good at present.
Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Daniel

ROTF
Wow your serving is perfect. What size thread are you using for the shroud and serving? On my Victory I always thought my serving line was too thin? I love the painted part of the shroud - I have never seen this before. I’m not sure if this will be overpowering (visually) once all the shrouds are done but looks so good at present.
Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant. I made the shroud lines out of a Amann Group 'Tex 70' which is a rather heavy-duty thread and spun it using a 2x3 configuration. That amounts to twisting 6 strands of thread into one right lay rope. The result is a 1.1mm diameter rope which is about 3 times larger than the ships scale calls for, but I like the visual so far. The serving thread is a Gutermann 'Tera 80' much thinner than the 'Tex 70'. I have never really tried to measure the diameter of the individual threads; they are all sub millimeter though. Over time you learn the different diameters of rope you can get by using various thread sizes and configurations. As far as the white paint on the served ends go here is what I'm trying to emulate.

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The real shrouds are 26mm dia. steel cable, and the rat lines are 10mm dia. poly rope. So, my ratlines will be 1.1/2.6=0.42mm dia. which I can make by using a Tera 80 thread in a 1x3 configuration. Probably more than you ever wanted to know :D but there you have it.
 
The real shrouds are 26mm dia. steel cable, and the rat lines are 10mm dia. poly rope. So, my ratlines will be 1.1/2.6=0.42mm dia. which I can make by using a Tera 80 thread in a 1x3 configuration.
Here you lost me:
Shrouds 26mm, in 1:72 that equals to 0,36mm.
Ratlines 10mm, again in 1:72 that equals to 0,13mm.
Where you start dividing 1.1 by 2.6, I don't understand where the number 1.1 is coming from, nor do I understand the rest of your explanation. Maybe self explanatory for the well educated, but I'm lost.
 
Here you lost me:
Hi Johan,
1.1 is the millimeter size in diameter of my shroud lines. This will put me approximately 3 times bigger than the correct scale of 0,36mm.
The ratio of real-life size 26mm shrouds and 10mm rats is 26/10=2.6 to 1 or the shrouds are 2.6 times bigger than the rats in real life.
So, at my particular scale I want to keep the same relationship. My shrouds being 1.1mm/2.6mm=0.42mm or my shrouds are 2.6 times bigger than my rats.

Since I am completely busting the scale of the shrouds, the least I could do would be trying to maintain the size relationship of the two.
 
Hi Johan,
1.1 is the millimeter size in diameter of my shroud lines. This will put me approximately 3 times bigger than the correct scale of 0,36mm.
The ratio of real-life size 26mm shrouds and 10mm rats is 26/10=2.6 to 1 or the shrouds are 2.6 times bigger than the rats in real life.
So, at my particular scale I want to keep the same relationship. My shrouds being 1.1mm/2.6mm=0.42mm or my shrouds are 2.6 times bigger than my rats.

Since I am completely busting the scale of the shrouds, the least I could do would be trying to maintain the size relationship of the two.
Got it, thanks so much, Dan!
I went for smaller sized shrouds and ratlines, so I didn't consider another option, like you do.
 
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Probably more than you ever wanted to know :D but there you have it.
Good morning Daniel.True story ROTF .Rope making is not on my agenda….Thanks anyway tho. I enjoy the reference pictures as you mentioned the BN2 (admiralty) approach before and I see the difference in approach to other guys BN….e.g. I now get where you got the white around the deadeyes. Your work and detail is brilliant Daniel. Cheers Grant
 
Good afternoon once again.
I have worked on the lower shrouds and finally have achieved the look I'm after. The first couple shots are temporary fit up where I could determine the amount of trim and painting needed. I had to over serve the lower ends knowing I would need to trim them out.

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Next was the finishing trim and paint work. I still need to final tension and tie off the ends. This look is patterned after (as close as I could get) of the BN2.

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At this point I can hear some of you saying where in the world did you get the idea of using brown lanyard lines. Well, that's what the BN 2 uses. All photos of BN1 are black and white and most likely they were black lanyards. Look at my post #792 to see for yourself. I will be changing the anchors to the club design when my order gets here. Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
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