Reading his post, the glue is probably PVA as he cleans the glue brushes in water.
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Thanks Allan. That's exactly what I was looking for!Hi Paul,
For the anchor the following are from Lees Masting and Rigging page 188.
Sheet, best bower and bower anchor cable circumference is 0.62 X the diameter of the main mast.
Kedge anchor cable is 0.6 the size of the sheet anchor cable.
The spare cables were an inch or so smaller in circumference.
Other anchor rigging
cable messenger 0.75X main stay
Cat falls and cat head stopper 0.33X the main stay
Shank painter tail 0.4 X the main stay
fish pendant 0.5 X the main stay
fish pendant tackle 0.25 X the main stay
There are several other ropes concerning anchor handling related items as well.
Hope this is helpful.
Allan
I use a similar method of making wooden rings for mast hoops and the like. I'd encourage you to give it a try the next time you need some and see if you like my method better. It's primary advantage is the strength of the resulting hoops and the ease of making them.
I take a mandrel of doweling, tubing, or whatever of the desired hoop diameter and wrap some waxed paper, plastic wrap, or aluminum foil around it, securing the ends with rubber bands. I then set a plane to take a thin shaving and I plane long, continuous shavings from the edge of a clear plank edge with no grain runout. (The thicker the plank, the wider the shaving. The wider the shaving, the better.) I then wrap the shavings around the mandrel with each turn evenly laid upon one the previous turn as it's wrapped around the mandrel while applying a coating of thinned PVA adhesive to the face of the shaving as it's wrapped. When the thickness of the shaving laminations reaches the desired thickness, the shaving wrapping is secured with a rubber band or masking tape. When the PVA is cured, the mandrel is chucked in the lathe and sections of the laminated shavings are marked at the desired widths and parted with a razor knife. The resulting rings are slid off the mandrel and any adhesive adhering to the inside scraped off with a razor knife. (Which shouldn't be much if you are careful applying the adhesive.) The end of the lap on the face of the hoop is sanded fair to the rest of the hoop and the corners of the hoops rounded off, if desired. The hoops are then stained and they're good to go. These laminated hoops, made in the same manner as the full-scale hoops without any joint, are surprisingly strong, as well.
Miscellaneous Bodges
In what I take to be the spirit of this thread have summarised some minor tips that I have posted in more detail in other posts. In Picture Order:
1) Using thin plywood strips to hold planking until glue sets. Fixed at one end; clipped or pinned at the other
2) Making small blocks by bashing a strip of wood through a draw plate. Drill from end or side then cut off.
3) Forming deck coils by winding glued thread between two sheets of perspex
4) Assembling shrouds and deadeyes with a dummy, break-off upper "chain plate"
5) Tying ratlines top down so that loops of thread hang down out of the way. shroud access progressively improves.
6) Fixing staysails after stays fitted using looped length of wire subsequently closed and trimmed. Easier then fiddly small rings.
7) Using old vape bottles for dispensing liquids (glue, varnish, paint) extracted from larger tins.
8) Sliding a clove hitch (or other loop) down a drinking straw placed over an installed belaying pin. (off ship demo picture)
9) (no picture) It is often easier to fit a length of running rigging by starting at the belaying pin.
In what I take to be the spirit of this thread have summarised some minor tips that I have posted in more detail in other posts. In Picture Order:
1) Using thin plywood strips to hold planking until glue sets. Fixed at one end; clipped or pinned at the other
2) Making small blocks by bashing a strip of wood through a draw plate. Drill from end or side then cut off.
3) Forming deck coils by winding glued thread between two sheets of perspex
4) Assembling shrouds and deadeyes with a dummy, break-off upper "chain plate"
5) Tying ratlines top down so that loops of thread hang down out of the way. shroud access progressively improves.
6) Fixing staysails after stays fitted using looped length of wire subsequently closed and trimmed. Easier then fiddly small rings.
7) Using old vape bottles for dispensing liquids (glue, varnish, paint) extracted from larger tins.
8) Sliding a clove hitch (or other loop) down a drinking straw placed over an installed belaying pin. (off ship demo picture)
9) (no picture) It is often easier to fit a length of running rigging by starting at the belaying pin.
Hi, where du tout Found the drawplate? Is IT à regular ovale drawplate for jewellery?
Thanks, so I assume IT is a regular wire drawplate not necessary for wood and IT work.
Most jewelry draw plates for wire are for sizing/forming not cutting. There are a lot of cutting types from China but the holes are not always accurate to say the least. The one from Byrnes is excellent. While they are still not fully back in operation, they may still have some available. If you are in the market
Byrnes Model Machines - Drawplate
Byrnes Model Machines produces precision-engineered miniature Table Saws and Thickness Sanders for Ship Modelers, Dollhouse Makers and Model Railroad Builders; every machine has an accuracy measured in thousandths of an inch.
www.byrnesmodelmachines.com
Thanks Allan, Il am Aware, but I am juste surprises that the ovale drawplate works.
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I bought these and now I can't find them.
I bet that ga never happened to anybody else on this site.
That has never happened to me, not even once,,,,,,,,,, in the past 11 days. Cleaned up the shop area a week and a half ago and put things in order which was a big mistake. Now that it is a bit of a mess again, I found what was missing and all is well.
I envy (hate) seeing those posted photos of an immaculate shop. I take solace in a comment from one of my old work partners that was responsible for the machining part of our own factory. He used to say that other than in an operating room if you go into a work area and there are no little bits and pieces and such laying around, they don't have many customers.
Allan
That's true in a data center too.
A place for everything and everything in its place
I wish!
I wish!
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Being in the business end of model building and repair I have found that an organized shop is more efficient when “time is money”.
Most every tool lives in a certain area and gets put away pretty much every evening.
I always know where my best tweezers are,
I always know where my files are.
And I always know where my pliers and cutters are.
Most every tool lives in a certain area and gets put away pretty much every evening.
I always know where my best tweezers are,
I always know where my files are.
And I always know where my pliers and cutters are.
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How correct. I'm working off a small dining table in my bedroom. The amount of tools and supplies has grown past my storage area and I don't have room for another cabinet. Just constantly rearranging nearly but really need to dispose of some of the excess.
Happy modeling