USS BONHOMME RICHARD - POF - Cross Section in Pear - 1:48 - by Uwe

Today I tried the method with a adhesive foil on top of the planks like discussed in post #218 and #220, but unfortunately it was not working with this tape / foil.
With drilling through the tape I was not able to produce a round hole in the tape - maybe I have to try a different product
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So I made it this time similar like before - drilling holes with a hand drill
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filling with the woode-paste
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after sanding the surface
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It's a new way to simulate the nail head, and it's a good idea. Thank you
 
Many Thanks for the comments and likes - it is highly appreciated

In the meantime was able to install the hanging knees of the second side and oiled the timber of the next deck

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- also the wall-elements of the storeroom are prepared for installation

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The installed second store room

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A little bit closer look on each side

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and the view from the other side
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some nice closer views - a little bit like from seamen eyes
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Unfortunately with these close-up photos you can see every grain of dust ;)

afterwards I dry-fitted the next elements of the deck with some fine-tuning that everything fits well for the next gluing session
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Many Thanks for the interest ..... to be continued ......
 
Yesterday I prepare the mast foot - and I am angry about myself, that I did it not before, when this area was better accessible..... But it is like it is.

The mast foot construction of the kit is much more simplified in comparison to the Boudriot drawings, nevertheless this detail of the footage was a common construction method and used in a lot of ships......

The kit
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Boudriot
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I have to prepare later on the mast form more in detail, but for now it will be ok, due to the fact that the mast by itself will be much later permanently installed
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The view from the top into the pump room, visible are the two clamps to fix the mast foot
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and a higher top view
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It was time to start with the deck planking, but ...... the supervisor made an unexpected and unannounced inspection, so we had to stop the work for some hours until he checked the stability of all beams

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after some discussions we were allowed to go further with the planking

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Tree-nailed in the usual way - just some smaller sanding of the surface is necessary I a can put the first gun on it :cool:

Sorry for the less photo quality - they were made this time with the mobile
 
Just one point to watch Uwe,that is if you haven't thought of it already.Do not glue the collar of wedges to the deck.The mast has iron rings around it's lower section.If you glue the collar in place,the mast will not go through the hole with the iron bands fitted.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Just one point to watch Uwe,that is if you haven't thought of it already.Do not glue the collar of wedges to the deck.The mast has iron rings around it's lower section.If you glue the collar in place,the mast will not go through the hole with the iron bands fitted.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Many Thanks for the reminder - it is still only dry fitted and not permanently fixed
 
In addition to the "normal" progress posts I decided to add also more often some descriptions with a comparison of some details between the kit design and the Bonhomme Richard drawings drawn by Jean Boudriot and published by ancre. Sometimes these differences are anomalies, simplifications or simply mistakes.

Today I want to show the cross section detail with the hanging knees etc.

Knees:
In the kit only wooden knees are foreseen, although the Bonhomme Richard had wooden knees only in the hold, on the other decks she had iron knees.
During her use by the french (Originally a French East-Indiaman Duc de Duras), the ship was a gunned merchantman and she had only one deck gunned, the other decks were reserved for transport and stowing.
Armed for protection against pirates in far eastern waters She carried her guns on one deck, twenty-eight 12-pounders, with six lighter pieces, six-pounders, on the poop-deck and forecastle.
Ports were cut in the gun room on the deck below where [John Paul Jones] mounted six 18-pounder guns.

Joints of frame elements:
The Z-formed joints of the frames were already discussed in older posts (post #10 and following) - this type of joint (Z) was never used by the french shipbuilders and is according my information a nice idea, but technically not realistic and correct.

Depth of frames:
Also the depth of the frames is changing much more from the keel to the top-timber.

Waterways:
Here the kit plan shows only a triangular stripe in addition to the deck-plank and one inside planking - usually the waterway is a part of the planking and made out of one piece.

Hull-planking:
The thickness of the planking of the real ship was slightly changing, due to the fact that she had no real wales, this was necessary to stiffen the ship structure longitudinal - the kit, but this is also done by most scratch modelers is using only using one thickness of planks (definitely for the inside planking)

On the left the kit drawing - on the right side Boudriot
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Many Thanks for your comment @carlosys - hope to see soon your progress on your section (so I can see how to make it ;) )
and all the likes received - much appreciated

I started to prepare the bitts, which will be based on and against the main beams, so I know the areas to be cut from the deck planking
Also here I am still testing which areas I want to plank and which I want to keep open to see the structure
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The bitts are not fixed - only to get an impression
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I started also the next level of beams and "carling"-beams - The bitts are fitting very well to the height of the new beams"
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Many Thanks for your interest
 
Many Thanks for the comments and likes...... Thanks

Next step was the opening of the next level of gunports - before I started the saw, I thought to control once more the pencil marks I made some months ago - I had some doubts, especially comparing with the level of the beams and the height of the deck
And indeed - they were wrong - so I remeasured twice and three times and corrected them before I started to cut the frames

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Off course the supervisors found very fast the responsible person - The guilty person / the culprit is only UWE
If you need some advice from them, they are not available and sitting in the Pub and drinking beer
and if there is an error they only discuss who is guilty - Typical behaviour
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In addition I made some smaller fine-tuning of the bitts, also comparing with the Boudriot drawings (which are helping a lot!!!)

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Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued ....
 
I was able to finalize the framing of the gunports on one side

Also here we can find a difference between the kit design and the original (and correct) technique.
Both have the upper and lower cills which form the horizontal framing. The cills are based / founded in some small notches of the frames futtocks.
The gunports are usually located directly at one double frame, so that the vertical sides are the futtocks (green arrows), only sometimes, when the gunport would end in the space between two frames, additional vertical timbers were necessary (red arrows)

Here the Boudriot drawing:
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This is the kit solution, I guess they developer of the kit took the imperfection of the modeler into account - f.e. G14, G23, G24, G16 and G04 would be usually not necessary
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I mentioned it - the imperfection of the modeler - so I installed the vertical sides also
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final sanding only when I am at the stage of the planking work
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Many Thanks for the interest
 
Many Thanks for the comment and the Likes .... much appreciated .....

Yesterday I made the wooden blocks around the mast (sorry I do not know the english term) which are fixing the mast towards the first level of beams.

First of all a small comparison of the kit solution and the Boudriot drawings - one the left the kit and on the right Boudriot - Boudriot shows the logical and technical necessity, that the blocks have under the deck a smaller thickness, otherwise it was not possible to hit them down, when fixing the mast.
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also in this area I want to show the structure of the beams, so I opened the planking, but the blocks around the mast should be complete
so I prepared the total number of blocks and fixed them on a sticky tape - in the background you can see the mast with one block
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in the gaps I filled the wooden glue and formed the tape with blocks around the mast, in order to get the correct diameter
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fixed
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with dry glue I was able to remove the tape
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now I was able to start to give the ring the correct final form
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comparing with the Boudriot drawing
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it is still on the wrong height, but you can imagine how it is looking like
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I forgot also to make the small end of the beam and added this one cutting one small dovetail groove
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Many Thanks for your interest .....
 
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