Thanks Jeff. I've used sanding sealer but I still had the grain problem. I'll try Model Expos products next time.
USS Constitution Cross Section - Model Shipways MS20245 - 1:76 - by JeffT [COMPLETED BUILD]
Just a quick post. The futtock shroud ratlines are completed and the rail on the top platform was attached. I built the rail some time ago, but I did not install it until now. I am currently working on attaching the yards and their associated rigging.
I installed the royal yard. This yard is easy to fix in place with a pin into the mast to hold it in place while the lift and halyard lines are rigged and secured.
Looks great Jeff
The topgallant yard and rigging are installed. Similar to the royal yard with the addition of the studding sail boom rigging. I will straighten/align the yards after all rigging is in place. None of the lines have been permanently glued in place yet.
Good morning. Looking good Jeff. Those are really nice hooks. Did they come with the kit? For my next model I need to buy some as my hook making ability is beyond poor. Cheers Grant
Hi, Grant. The hooks are supplied with the kit. ModelExpo is quite generous with the number of hooks that they supply. This is good since the small ones are easy to drop and loose. The hooks have to be cleaned up a bit after cutting from the group, but that is easily done with a rotary tool or file. I soak the hooks in IPA (helps get rid of handling grease), dry and drop into Brass Black to darken them before use.
The installed topsail yard and its rigging. I ended up adding another eyebolt to the port channel and moved the topsail port halyard to the new attachment point.
There seems to be a discrepancy between the plans and the instructions. Go with the plans when you add the eyebolts to the channel.
There seems to be a discrepancy between the plans and the instructions. Go with the plans when you add the eyebolts to the channel.
WOW - very good work on the masting and rigging - Bravo
Thank you for the high praise.
Installation of the main yard.
Like the construction of the yard itself, the installation of the main yard can take some time. Getting the triple blocks on the halyards lined up seemed to be beyond my capabilities. HINT to persons doing this step in the future: Add the upper triple blocks and the upper sling ring to the lower mast before you permanently add the upper masts. It will be much easier to do then. (Probably good advice for any model!)
Once I had the fixed parts of the sling and halyards attached, I threaded the running portion of the halyards through the blocks and raised the main yard. A fiddle and a sea shanty may have been heard while hauling up the yard.
When I got the yard raised to the correct height, I threaded the line through the sling rings to hold it in place but did not fix the end in case some further adjustment was needed. I added the yard lifts and the lift tackle (similar to the other yards).
When I looked for the attachment points for the preventer sling tackle, I noticed I had a problem. Both cleats where these rope attach were broken off. The picture shows after I removed the base of the cleat that were still attached. (Red circles in picture show the missing cleats; green circles show what should have been there).
I had two reasonably sized brass cleats in my unused parts from another build, so I pressed them into service by pushing them into the platform structure and painting them grey. Since the cleats will have ropes tied off to them, the difference between the brass and wooden cleats will not really show in the final presentation.
Like the construction of the yard itself, the installation of the main yard can take some time. Getting the triple blocks on the halyards lined up seemed to be beyond my capabilities. HINT to persons doing this step in the future: Add the upper triple blocks and the upper sling ring to the lower mast before you permanently add the upper masts. It will be much easier to do then. (Probably good advice for any model!)
Once I had the fixed parts of the sling and halyards attached, I threaded the running portion of the halyards through the blocks and raised the main yard. A fiddle and a sea shanty may have been heard while hauling up the yard.
When I got the yard raised to the correct height, I threaded the line through the sling rings to hold it in place but did not fix the end in case some further adjustment was needed. I added the yard lifts and the lift tackle (similar to the other yards).
When I looked for the attachment points for the preventer sling tackle, I noticed I had a problem. Both cleats where these rope attach were broken off. The picture shows after I removed the base of the cleat that were still attached. (Red circles in picture show the missing cleats; green circles show what should have been there).
I had two reasonably sized brass cleats in my unused parts from another build, so I pressed them into service by pushing them into the platform structure and painting them grey. Since the cleats will have ropes tied off to them, the difference between the brass and wooden cleats will not really show in the final presentation.
While working on lines around the platform my hand slipped and that was the end of the rail at the back of the platform. I took inspiration from @HMSFly in his post (https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...y-model-shipways-1-76-scale.12050/post-362390) and crafted a replacement. First, I made 4 overlength wood strips and glued them together just at the ends. 
I used some piano wire of a reasonable thickness for the uprights. I drilled through the wood strips so that I fully penetrated one set and only halfway through the other set (these will become the upper part of the rail.
I then glued netting between the upper pieces of the rail and the painted posts and glued and clamped the 2 strips while sandwiching the netting in place. I added the lower strip to keep the post in alignment while the glue set.
Once the glue was completely dry, I sandwiched the netting between lower strips, pulled it tight and glued these 2 strips.
Here's the final result along with the broken original. The original doesn't look so bad here because it is lying flat. You can see multiple breaks in the piece. I went with four posts since the full-sized model and the actual ship use 4 and not 5.
The replacement in place. I recommend that future builders not place the rail until after completing the rigging.
I used some piano wire of a reasonable thickness for the uprights. I drilled through the wood strips so that I fully penetrated one set and only halfway through the other set (these will become the upper part of the rail.
I then glued netting between the upper pieces of the rail and the painted posts and glued and clamped the 2 strips while sandwiching the netting in place. I added the lower strip to keep the post in alignment while the glue set.
Once the glue was completely dry, I sandwiched the netting between lower strips, pulled it tight and glued these 2 strips.
Here's the final result along with the broken original. The original doesn't look so bad here because it is lying flat. You can see multiple breaks in the piece. I went with four posts since the full-sized model and the actual ship use 4 and not 5.
The replacement in place. I recommend that future builders not place the rail until after completing the rigging.
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Great recovery. Looks amazing. While doing the Syren the suggest the same thing but the railing on after rigging.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
As Clint Eastwood's character "Sgt. Tom 'Gunny' Highway" said in the movie Heartbreak Ridge, You have to improvise, adapt and overcome!
Good morning Jeff. True story. I did the same thing with my Victory. Very good advice. Lovely work on the rail. Cheers Grant
Recon!
The preventer slings and tackle associated with main yard have been completed. They are tied off at the cleats added in a previous post.
Lot's and lot's of rigging detail. I am sure you are glad you only have one mast to do.
The metal canopy frame is installed. The construction of the frame may have been one of the more challenging parts of the build. The metal was easily bent, but difficult to get smooth curves and keep the feet of the post aligned with the pre-drilled holes in the frame. I am not completely happy with the construction and I probably should have found some paint that was closer to brass, although the instructions call for using gold.
