YQ Bluenose Ted R

AllanKP69 said:
Not 100% sure but they look to be 7" X11" so not round. Maybe someone has a contemporary drawing that will show this for sure. American fishing schooners appear to have had round deadeyes and sizes varied from about 5" to 7" as explained by Howard Chappelle in The American Fishing Schooners, Perhaps Gloucester fishing schooners were different, at least for Bluenose.
Allan
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Yup, looks heart shaped.
Peter replied on my build log with photos
Check them out
Best regards
Ted
 
That's is good as I can get it for the staining.
When it dries I'll put on a coat of satin clear
I would prefer flat but my wife likes shiny. (Don't all women)
Who would have ever thought I would get to this point w
ith my lack of experience.
Thank all you gentlemen for your support and guidance.

Happy modeling
TedIMG20240819111751.jpg
 
I'm a hack.
Installed the bow scroll work and pinstripes.
I'm so inept I'm happy with it.
Should I clear coat over the vinyl pinstriping tape?
My game plan is to build wood ship models until I become a skilled modeler.
Best regards,
Ted IMG20240819180046.jpgIMG20240819180025.jpgIMG20240819180029.jpgIMG20240819180049.jpg
 
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The AL Harvey kit I ordered from eBay arrived this evening.
It is nothing more than the scraps left over after building a ship model.
Thank goodness for eBay garuntee
 
Peter Voogt said:
Hi Ted.
The 6 of D245 are for the Main / Captains Cabin. See plan 8-3, fig. P.18
The 2 of D246 are for the Hawse Holes. See plan 8-2, fig. 27.
The 2 of the 3 of D247 are for Stearing Case. See plan 8-3, fig. P.19. The 3rd is for the Main Cabin door. See P.18.

For example, when you use the Google Translate app, the parts list for the Chinese characters shows this translation text as indication:
View attachment 465221
Regards, Peter
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In my kit they are all the same size within .002". Indistinguishable if you consider out of round.
 
Good morning Daniel
How did you finish the nameplate on the stern.
I can't find any photos anywhere.
Sorry if I'm a pest
Ted
 
Hi Ted, I used the same technique as the bow plate but this time the letters are raised so the paint stays in the lower flat background. Note that the brass name plate is of the same type used on the Bluenose II. The original Bluenose which you are building should look like this picture below. In your kit there should be a small plastic bag with this decal in it which is period correct.



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Should look like this from Deans model.
 
Daniel20 said:
Hi Ted, I used the same technique as the bow plate but this time the letters are raised so the paint stays in the lower flat background. Note that the brass name plate is of the same type used on the Bluenose II. The original Bluenose which you are building should look like this picture below. In your kit there should be a small plastic bag with this decal in it which is period correct.



View attachment 465898View attachment 465899
Should look like this from Deans model.
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Please help!
IMG20240820122400.jpgI'm baffled. Both of these gears were manufactured with a slot at the center of the gear.
The shaft he is too small and needs to be enlarged. The drill bit catches on the slot. Why would they do this?
What do you suggest
Do you think the gear would break if I drove a wedge into the slot?
Please help.
Ted
 
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I don't recall having any problem with this Ted. Not sure what to say, I did buy some extra plastic gears so I could make the bull gear coming out of the engine box. I think I just ignored the gap, having said that the only reason I can think of for it is to serve as an expansion opening.

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Daniel20 said:
I don't recall having any problem with this Ted. Not sure what to say, I did buy some extra plastic gears so I could make the bull gear coming out of the engine box. I think I just ignored the gap, having said that the only reason I can think of for it is to serve as an expansion opening.

View attachment 466051
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Panic is over. I figured it was.
Chucked it up in my drill and hit it with a file
Thank you
Ted
 
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