ZHL Black Pearl 2020 Golden Edition [COMPLETED BUILD]

Tony H said:
Just a quick update, now the masts are in place I wanted to see how the sails would look. The precut sails provided looked to deep (hung over the deck and yards). Before sewing the sails adjustment are needed.

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Paper templates where made and fitted, between 10-15mm was removed from the bottom of the sails.

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This is a little gadget I made up to draw/cut ovals worked well for the sails.

Now a question what is the correct height of a sail?, Should it reach the previous yard or be longer/shorter.
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Tony, make sure you supply lots of pics! Great job!
 
Tony H said:
Just a quick update, now the masts are in place I wanted to see how the sails would look. The precut sails provided looked to deep (hung over the deck and yards). Before sewing the sails adjustment are needed.

View attachment 236521View attachment 236522

Paper templates where made and fitted, between 10-15mm was removed from the bottom of the sails.

View attachment 236526
This is a little gadget I made up to draw/cut ovals worked well for the sails.

Now a question what is the correct height of a sail?, Should it reach the previous yard or be longer/shorter.
Click to expand...
Tony, I just love your innovative gadgets! You should patent the designs and sell the idea to some manufacturer who can develop the molds and prototypes for mass production! Then sell to hobby shops....the price for hobby tools and supplies is ridiculously profitable! Ha!
 
Ahoy All said:
Tony, I just love your innovative gadgets! You should patent the designs and sell the idea to some manufacturer who can develop the molds and prototypes for mass production! Then sell to hobby shops....the price for hobby tools and supplies is ridiculously profitable! Ha!
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Most of my gadgets came from items I've seen and adapted to suit, think I saw something like this made from wood it looked handy so I made my own. Two nails and a piece of string will do the same job.
 
Tony H said:
Most of my gadgets came from items I've seen and adapted to suit, think I saw something like this made from wood it looked handy so I made my own. Two nails and a piece of string will do the same job.
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I like that little jig you made for the cannon door hinges!
 
Tony H been following your blog on black pearl great build better than mine. About to start on the rigging (masts) discovered my kit is not the Golden but just the stand ZHL (with many parts missing). If you could help me deadeyes 7&5mm missing order now on your parts list (the fitting in plastic box) What does a single block(oval) & single block (rectangle) and double block look like. Allso about the length of the masts from the deck nothing on my instructions just dia. without your blog would not have got this far with my black pearl20210604_124627.jpg20210604_124627.jpg
 
terence said:
Tony H been following your blog on black pearl great build better than mine. About to start on the rigging (masts) discovered my kit is not the Golden but just the stand ZHL (with many parts missing). If you could help me deadeyes 7&5mm missing order now on your parts list (the fitting in plastic box) What does a single block(oval) & single block (rectangle) and double block look like. Allso about the length of the masts from the deck nothing on my instructions just dia. without your blog would not have got this far with my black pearlView attachment 237018View attachment 237018
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Hi Terence your Pearl is looking good have you got a log? I'd be interested to learn more about your build.

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The blocks are poor quality your probably better off having to get new ones. If you can't find the double ones just tie two single ones together. Let me know if you need anymore dimensions from the drawings.
Tony
 
Still getting my head around the rigging instructions as nothing is laid out clearly. I'm going to stick with the drawing although I can see some mistakes which I will correct where possible. I was looking at replacing the poor quality blocks but decided it would take to long.

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First thing I did was set up a new work station. I have a trolley that is height adjustable which should be ideal for rigging.

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The base is mounted on large bearing to make a turntable.

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While working out the rigging I'm starting parts that can be made off the ship. The shrouds seemed a good place to start.
First I seized the middle 12cm of the shroud.

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Then a loop was formed around a piece of dowel and more seizing applied.

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Lower shrouds finished stays next.
 
You will really like the adjustable height feature. When I was rigging my HMS Fly I was always standing up to tie into the upper parts of the mast. Up and down, up and down. Your shroud lines themselves not the seizing seem over twisted (not sure though).
 
You have all the toys Tony! I love how you are bringing what you know and have to the project at hand. All I have is biology and theology in my toolbelt so very little translates over to model ship building...
 
dockattner said:
You have all the toys Tony! I love how you are bringing what you know and have to the project at hand. All I have is biology and theology in my toolbelt so very little translates over to model ship building...
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Paul, the Lord appointed you as the Noah of model ship builders! I just love watching and reading how Tony and you do things!
 
Tony H said:
Still getting my head around the rigging instructions as nothing is laid out clearly. I'm going to stick with the drawing although I can see some mistakes which I will correct where possible. I was looking at replacing the poor quality blocks but decided it would take to long.

View attachment 237210View attachment 237211
First thing I did was set up a new work station. I have a trolley that is height adjustable which should be ideal for rigging.

View attachment 237212
The base is mounted on large bearing to make a turntable.

View attachment 237216
While working out the rigging I'm starting parts that can be made off the ship. The shrouds seemed a good place to start.
First I seized the middle 12cm of the shroud.

View attachment 237239
Then a loop was formed around a piece of dowel and more seizing applied.

View attachment 237241
Lower shrouds finished stays next.
Click to expand...
Holy cow Tony! Your work area looks like an ER that most hospitals would enjoy! Just love your tools and attention to detail that you apply! Keep up the great work and keep all the pics coming! Hopefully, I’ll reach the rigging stage one day!
 
Daniel20 said:
You will really like the adjustable height feature. When I was rigging my HMS Fly I was always standing up to tie into the upper parts of the mast. Up and down, up and down. Your shroud lines themselves not the seizing seem over twisted (not sure though).
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Hi Daniel looking at my photo it only shows the seized part of the shroud.

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This is how I wanted the shrouds to look.

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This is a completed shroud you can see where the seizing ends. I found the rope from ZHL was quite soft and to much tension on the seizing can squash the rope. I am thinking of installing a motor on my machine for jobs like this.

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Ahoy All said:
Holy cow Tony! Your work area looks like an ER that most hospitals would enjoy! Just love your tools and attention to detail that you apply! Keep up the great work and keep all the pics coming! Hopefully, I’ll reach the rigging stage one day!
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It looks better in the photos if it was neat and tidy the mancave would not be mine for very long, I'll share it with the fur children but that's where I draw line.
 
OK now I see. You applied a serving to the rope as well before seizing it. That is exactly what I intend to do as well when I get to that point. Well done Tony.
 
Tony H said:
I hope someone will be interested in another build log of the BP, this will be my second wooden ship model the first was the Rattlesnake by Mamoli nearly 30 years ago.
This is the first time that I have attempted a build log so if there is anymore information required please advise. This build was started in October and I am currently working on the second planking. I will start the log from the beginning and try to point out how I have done things differently. The build logs on SoS have been a big help thanks to everyone who has posted one.


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When l joined the keel together there was a 7mm bow which meant l needed to keep the keel straight during assembly.

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I used two pieces of 6mm timber that held the keel straight while the frames where fitted.

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I did a lot of dry fitting to see how everything went together. This kit is made to a very high standard when the decks where fitted the bulkheads where all square to the keel, only one needed a little bit of material removed to fit.

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I have marked the keel to see where the parts go this will be a reference for glueing. The pencil lines on top of the slots in the keel and bulkheads will show the if the parts are fully engaged. File the edges of parts 3 & 5 but don't go all the way to the line.

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I found the best way to assemble these parts was to do them all together, bulkhead 6 and the deck was dry fitted to keep everything square. I also checked with a square all good, you can see the pencil marks on the keel and frame 5 show it is down fully. Before assembly I used a walnut stain on the top part of frame 4 and painted black under the grates.

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After the glue had set I glued frames 7-14 again dry fitting frame 6 and the decks to keep everything in place and square, now is a good time to fit the deck supports on frame 12. Finally frame 6 and the main deck can be fitted, this was the easiest way I found to do the tabs on the deck that fit into frame 6.

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The other frames at the aft needed a little bit of ajustment for the angles but went together well. The toothpicks are used because I could not get a clamp where I needed it.

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When all the bulkheads and main deck where fitted the bow on the keel was down to 2 mm if I clamp the keel straight during planking I will be able to fix this.

Next part I'll go over how I did the LEDs
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Hallo @Tony H
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
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