Yuri, the way you do it - a great way! 
You don't want to rush... Always try to lay first layer planks as this will be the ONLY layer.
You don't want to rush... Always try to lay first layer planks as this will be the ONLY layer.
ZHL Chalupa 1834 (my 1st model) [Completed Build]
PARALLEL STEEL CLAMPS 2PC SET 2 1/2IN.
Busy Bee Tools is Canada's largest Woodworking & Metalworking retailer. Find power tools, woodworking tools & metalworking tools at factory direct prices.
www.busybeetools.com
steel clamps
Very good looking work with the planking - like JIm mentioned already 
Here is update on my little progress. I decided to "pre-made" 10 planks at a time, looks like they fit nicely without much adjustment. Just shave a bit the angle and bend. Please don't go hard on me 
, I'm still learning and another "finish" layer will cover some minor mistakes, I hope ...
, I'm still learning and another "finish" layer will cover some minor mistakes, I hope ...
Hi Yuri!
Planking such fragile frames is not easy. Your work looks very good. The model is becoming more and more stable. I see you have a feeling for wood. Only lightly sand the 2nd layer. It is very thin.
Best regard
Thomas
Planking such fragile frames is not easy. Your work looks very good. The model is becoming more and more stable. I see you have a feeling for wood. Only lightly sand the 2nd layer. It is very thin.
Best regard
Thomas
Busy Bee no longer ships to the US. I tried.PARALLEL STEEL CLAMPS 2PC SET 2 1/2IN.
Busy Bee Tools is Canada's largest Woodworking & Metalworking retailer. Find power tools, woodworking tools & metalworking tools at factory direct prices.
steel clamps
I did find these from PENN TOOL.
They are made in India, The ones in the pic are the 2 1/2". I ordered some 2" as well, but they were back-ordered.
I'm pretty fussy about the "feel" of precision hand tools. These clamps are well made and work nicely, but the corners and edges were very sharp or squared off. The two old L S Starrett ones I had in my machinist's chest have nicely rounded and tapered edges,
so, I took these apart and in a few minutes each, rounded the edges a bit on the 1 X 42 belt grinder. They feel much better in my hand now and the fact that the grinding took off some of the blackening does not bother me at all. I've seen these clamps that are polished all over, maybe they were even dull chrome plated. With some more time, I could buff off all the blackening on these and polish them up, but it's not worth it. I'm satisfied with them.
EJ
They are made in India, The ones in the pic are the 2 1/2". I ordered some 2" as well, but they were back-ordered.
I'm pretty fussy about the "feel" of precision hand tools. These clamps are well made and work nicely, but the corners and edges were very sharp or squared off. The two old L S Starrett ones I had in my machinist's chest have nicely rounded and tapered edges,
so, I took these apart and in a few minutes each, rounded the edges a bit on the 1 X 42 belt grinder. They feel much better in my hand now and the fact that the grinding took off some of the blackening does not bother me at all. I've seen these clamps that are polished all over, maybe they were even dull chrome plated. With some more time, I could buff off all the blackening on these and polish them up, but it's not worth it. I'm satisfied with them.
EJ
Found some at taytools.com
I have even less time now to work on this project, busy at work... But I managed to almost finish planking the first layer. I wasn't sure how to do last plank, so I did the way i thought is logical. Please comment, before i do veneer planking. Also, check my finished dremel table.
Thank you,
~Y
Thank you,
~Y
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Hi Yuri,
Maybe the photos will help you!
The Planks go from bow to Stern.
Best regards Thomas
Maybe the photos will help you!
The Planks go from bow to Stern.
Best regards Thomas
Finally had time to finish "plywood" planking and I'm getting ready to do second layer with veneer. I will be replacing some materials from the kit. I've got real complains to ZHL about materials quality and drawings accuracy. Significant problem is with different scale between kit and drawings ( almost 8 mm in length, see 1st picture below) Not sure if its worth writing separate kit review at this point..
So, here it is:
So, here it is:
Very interesting method to mark frames...
May 1st update:
And here is my way to bend them, using custom made brass attachment to my soldering iron:
Thank you,
And here is my way to bend them, using custom made brass attachment to my soldering iron:
Thank you,
Hello.
Here is May 28 update. I just realized it took me almost a month to do veneer planking. I'm the lucky one working almost full time in IT, System administrator..
I have a few questions:
- Do i varnish/finish now or after everything is done?
- Would like to know opinion on "nailing":
And here is another issue with the kit. I was able to match 16 when needed 14 planks by color and grains, still with minor defects :
Gluing, banding and drying wet plank at the same time
Most planks bent "sideway", like last one:
600 grid sandpaper finish:
Thank you,
Here is May 28 update. I just realized it took me almost a month to do veneer planking. I'm the lucky one working almost full time in IT, System administrator..
I have a few questions:
- Do i varnish/finish now or after everything is done?
- Would like to know opinion on "nailing":
And here is another issue with the kit. I was able to match 16 when needed 14 planks by color and grains, still with minor defects :
Gluing, banding and drying wet plank at the same time
Most planks bent "sideway", like last one:
600 grid sandpaper finish:
Thank you,
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Very good planking job: accurate and clean!!
Hello Yuri,
- It depends on what type of varnish you are planning to use. If oil-based, then varnish the hull at the end of the build, because you will hard time to glue other pieces to the hull. However, if waterbased treatment, then you can do it now.
- Personally, I like copper wire. Alternatively, you can try wood filler (similar or close color) in the predrilled holes with pencil marks.
Hello Yuri,
- It depends on what type of varnish you are planning to use. If oil-based, then varnish the hull at the end of the build, because you will hard time to glue other pieces to the hull. However, if waterbased treatment, then you can do it now.
- Personally, I like copper wire. Alternatively, you can try wood filler (similar or close color) in the predrilled holes with pencil marks.
WONDERFUL PLANKING JOB ESPECIALLY THE VEENER, i just can not see myself working on the VEENER on second planking, BTW youre approaching SPILING OF PLANKS WITCH TO ME IS THE REAL WAY TO PLANK A MODEL GET THE SMALL BOOK BY JIM ROBERTS FROM MODEL EXPO TELLSNYOU HOW TO DO CORRECT SPILING WONDERFUL BOOKLET easy to understand and BTW what kind of tape is that that you were using, like it, can you right on it. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Who makes and sells the nice multi-compartment box in background of photos?
Hi Yuri!
Very well done.
For sealing I take nitro paint with thinner. Difficult areas are painted with a brush and then everything (without rigging) is painted with the airbrush.
As nails I use brass, copper or wood paste. Also all mixed together. In these photos they are brass and wood paste. The brass nails are not blackened, but already 25 years old and therefore they became black under the varnish.
Pump made of brass naturelly oxidized without verdigris, like the nails.
With best regards
Thomas
Very well done.
For sealing I take nitro paint with thinner. Difficult areas are painted with a brush and then everything (without rigging) is painted with the airbrush.
As nails I use brass, copper or wood paste. Also all mixed together. In these photos they are brass and wood paste. The brass nails are not blackened, but already 25 years old and therefore they became black under the varnish.
Pump made of brass naturelly oxidized without verdigris, like the nails.
With best regards
Thomas
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Thank you all for suggestions..
Kurt, here is the link. Its a quick search when visited eBay's "Hobby Jar Super Store"
I like it, well made and can be hanged, I added couple magnetic strips on the side and little hooks on the other.
Don, at work we use this tape, (Scotch Brand Magic Tape, Writeable, Invisible), so tried at home
Kurt, here is the link. Its a quick search when visited eBay's "Hobby Jar Super Store"
I like it, well made and can be hanged, I added couple magnetic strips on the side and little hooks on the other.
Don, at work we use this tape, (Scotch Brand Magic Tape, Writeable, Invisible), so tried at home
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Hi YURI, DOES IT COME WIDER IF YOU KNOW. GOD BLESS DON