ZHL Le Soleil Royal

Still working on the hull planking so I decided to take a break and do a mold of some of the decorations on the top gun port deck. I went ahead and put my clay down and made sure the sides were about a quarter inch above the decorations.View attachment 272484

I poured the silicone and it had about an hour demold time. View attachment 272485

While waiting for the mold to cure I decided to weigh the metal decorations. For eight of the ones that are on the sides of the gun ports the weight was 3.15 ounces and the eight metal decorations for the gun ports weighed 1.15 ounces. View attachment 272489
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The reason for only doing eight of each is the fact that the two minute mix and pour time wouldn’t be enough to do more. I mixed and poured the resin. Once you put the two parts of resin together you only have two minutes to mix and pour before it starts solidifying.

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After a half hour cure time and trimming the sprue it’s time to weigh the resin decorations up. The eight resin decorations for the sides of the gun ports weighed in at 0.30 ounces and the eight resin gun port decorations weighed 0.15 ounces. View attachment 272493
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Here’s what they look like side by side.

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All painted up, can you tell which ones are metal or resin?

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Excellent Jay
THis is just great and will be much lighter
 
Thanks Gilbert, yes lighter and it should help with the other larger pieces with fitting them to the hull.
 
Hi Jay
I really would like to learn how you do that!!
Let me go through your post related to this and see if I have questions
It's very simple... I used to work in a dental lab and we made duplicates of things daily. Some authorized,,,, some not ;)
 
It's very simple... I used to work in a dental lab and we made duplicates of things daily. Some authorized,,,, some not ;)
If it is not too much trouble, can you elaborate and show step by step process including the materials used. Photo process with explanations would be perfectly fine. Many thanks in avance.
 
Hi Jay
I really would like to learn how you do that!!
Let me go through your post related to this and see if I have questions

Sure thing Gilbert, any questions I will try to answer.
 
If it is not too much trouble, can you elaborate and show step by step process including the materials used. Photo process with explanations would be perfectly fine. Many thanks in avance.

Yes, I would like to see debaucherys process also. As far as what I did I have a step-by-step on page 10 of this build log.
 
Basically, it's just the same process. Pictures aren't going to happen, I am retired. Jay used clay, where a metal flask would be used to hold what ever you wanted to duplicate, then a semi viscious material is used to duplicate or make your patterns. (or negative, as what you are duplicating being the positive). Once that set..... We then mixed a monomer and polymer together to make the duplicating material or what you call resin... For us it was the material that a denture is made out of..... very durable, easy to carve, light weight.... paintable.,,,Actually, the perfect working material for making models. But, I sure do wish I had access to that stuff again. ......that make sense? I know there are a couple dentists here who know exactly what I'm talking about.
 
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It certainly should be a lot easier to glue them and for them to stay on, Jay!
I love the idea of reducing weight by casting new ornaments in a resin. What I did with a past build is I drilled some holes in the metal castings and glued pins in the holes. then, I made little holes in the hull for the pins to go into. It's a little tricky but, it was surprisingly stable. Anyways that is my 2 cents.
 
Jay,,,,, when you get to the more intricate pieces, you need to keep in mind some thing called "under cuts". These low spots if not relieved (filled in) will cause your work to catch when removing the original and sometimes your duplicate. Thus destroying what you are trying to do. We used wax.
 
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Jay,,,,, when you get to the more intricate pieces, you need to keep in mind some thing called "under cuts". These low spots if not relieved (filled in) will cause your work to catch when removing the original and sometimes your duplicate. Thus destroying what you are trying to do. We used wax.
Thanks I’ll watch for that but in all the years I’ve been using this product I’ve never had a problem with it.
 
Hey Vic, I have had some doings and obligations to take care of and by the end of the year I should have all the villages pillaged and wrongs righted but I definitely will be doing more molds and pouring resin.
 
Finally got back to the ship and I did some gluing of the gun port frames. If you haven’t done this before it takes forever on a 100+ gun ship. B428B5DA-8324-4178-8483-06CC040E54BA.jpeg

Loaded up the airbrush and sprayed them red.

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There’s 3 types of cannons in the kit and I want to try casting them in resin.

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I glued small pieces of wood to the front of the cannons so that there would be a larger opening to pour the resin in. Next step will be to make the mold.

B9747FF0-5CAC-4CAF-9A15-801925E888F7.jpeg
 
Finally got back to the ship and I did some gluing of the gun port frames. If you haven’t done this before it takes forever on a 100+ gun ship. View attachment 288327

Loaded up the airbrush and sprayed them red.

View attachment 288329

There’s 3 types of cannons in the kit and I want to try casting them in resin.

View attachment 288330

I glued small pieces of wood to the front of the cannons so that there would be a larger opening to pour the resin in. Next step will be to make the mold.

View attachment 288331
Hi Jay
Great to see you back
One thing you may want to think about before making the canons in resin, is that, in the pictures and plans from ZHL, the cannons on the upper deck (those on the left in your picture) have the aft part bent upwards. I have not done that on mine, but think I will change and make this bend.
 
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