ZHL Royal Caroline Kit, scale 1/30

This next set of pics show me attaching the rudder to the ships boat,




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I decided to attach the rudder with dummy hinges, so I drilled two
1.2mm holes in the rudder and the same in the back of the boat,
then I glued two pieces of 1.2mm brass rod into the rudder holes




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The rudder glued in place.



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Then I attached the rudder hinge parts, using CA glue and also putting small brass pins through.




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View from the rear


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Then I attached the boat part of the hinges, again using the CA glue to hold them in position while I drilled
out the holes for the brass pins.



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Hinges attached and also a coat of varnish


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Rear view


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Port side


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Starboard side,


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G'day John
You have out-shined the 'teacher'.​
This is far supiour than the instructions. Well done memattie!
I'll be copying you, when it's my turn.
:D
Thanks John.
Havagooday
Greg
 
Well just for my own satisfaction and for anyone who might build the Royal Caroline, I got out the drawings and measured them against the model I am building,
from the transom to the front of the figure head on the AOTship drawings the distance is 1100, and on the model the distance is 1055, so the model is 45mm shorter than the AOTship drawings. This causes some problems when attaching the carvings along the sides of the ship, I didn't know about this till I started attaching the carvings and subsequently I had to trim the carvings to get them to fit.

So I took some further measurements to find out where the differences were, from the front of the figure head to the first bulkhead on the bow,
on the drawing it was 123mm and on the model it was 110mm, 13mm difference,

there is not a lot you can do about this area, the main ones are the next three areas that I measured where the carvings fit along the hull

then I measured from the bulk head on the bow to the end of the last cupid on the fourth gun port , on the drawing it was 415mm and on the model it was also 415mm, no difference,

then I measured from the end of that last cupid to the back of the cabin, on the drawing it was 305mm and on the model it was 290mm, 15mm difference, so if you are going to extend the length of the model you need to cut the keel and insert a strip of ply the same thickness as the keel and 15mm wide, preferably in front of the main mast, if you do this the carving will sit in place quite comfortably


then I measured from the back of the cabin to the back of the transom, on the drawing it was 255mm and on the model it was 240mm, 15mm difference, also you would have to do the same right behind where the main cabin ends, there are several other things as well but these are the main changes to get all the carvings to sit in place without having to trim them like I had to.


all the differences add up to 43mm, which is close as to the 45mm overall difference

also Greg wanted to know the width of the main cabin, at the front it was 215mm on the drawings and 203mm on the model, at the back where it narrows it was 192mm on the drawings and 178mm on the model,

all the above measurements are give or take a mm,


happy modelling,

best regards John.

.
 
Last edited:
Not a lot more to do on the boat itself, just been attaching the support brackets for the thwarts,




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some of the brackets



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close up



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first three sets in place



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all the brackets in place



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another view



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this will be the next job, the parts for the canopy



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be careful removing it from the packet, I thought it was ply, but it is just one thickness of wood, I think it is Beech,
I have managed to glue it back together with some Tite bond white glue and will build a small frame for it to sit
over so as to avoid any more breakages.


.
 
A little question about checking the measurements on the plans. I assume from what you said that the ornaments will fit exactly ONLY if you correct the length of the false keel. Now this would also imply adding a piece to the keel itself!?
About that very fragile canopy, does this piece need to be glazed? If so, that would be enough to reinforce its structure, I suppose.

By the way, thanks for this very interesting log.

Happy modeling
 
JPC said:
A little question about checking the measurements on the plans. I assume from what you said that the ornaments will fit exactly ONLY if you correct the length of the false keel. Now this would also imply adding a piece to the keel itself!?


By the way, thanks for this very interesting log.

Happy modeling
Click to expand...

G'day JPC
I can answer that question for you very easily. Sorry John for butting in.
I spent all day yesterday, well, the time that I spent as 'my modelling time' that is. If you go to my log by pressing HERE, John and I have the answer that you need. John was deeply involved with this explanation and what to do.
Havagooday everyone.
Greg
 
The brackets are a small and nice add on. One more detail to make the model to a real good one....thank you for sharing it with us
 
JPC said:
A little question about checking the measurements on the plans. I assume from what you said that the ornaments will fit exactly ONLY if you correct the length of the false keel. Now this would also imply adding a piece to the keel itself!?
About that very fragile canopy, does this piece need to be glazed? If so, that would be enough to reinforce its structure, I suppose.

By the way, thanks for this very interesting log.

Happy modeling
Click to expand...

G'day JPC, thank you for your nice comments,

you say above, Now this would also imply adding a piece to the keel itself!? that is exactly what I wrote in the post, the post is a bit long winded so you may have missed it, see below,

so if you are going to extend the length of the model you need to cut the keel and insert a strip of ply the same thickness as the keel and 15mm wide, preferably in front of the main mast, if you do this the carving will sit in place quite comfortably,

as for the canopy it is just an open framework, so I will make a small support frame for it,

thanks for visiting my log and your helpful comments if you see anything else please say as this is the only way we learn,

best regards John.
 
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I made a small frame work to support and curve the lattice work, this shows the frame upside down and
with the middle support timber in the process of being shaped, I just trimmed it back with a knife then I
will finish it with sand paper, I would have usually not put the middle support in, but owing to the fact it
had already broke i didn't want to take a chance.



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With the front carving attached



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looking down on the top




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These carvings were a bit thick and needed thinning down, the top one has been thinned down




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The canopy roof with all the carvings attached




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and holding it just about where it will end up,




thanks for looking,

best regards John.
 
G'day John
I shouldn't be amazed with what you do by now, but somehow you always pull an 'ace' from your sleeve. Remind me, never to play Poker with you!
Absolutely brilliant mate. Or as the Ozzie expression goes.....
'it's a bonzza mate!'​
Greg
 
Hi John,

I've tried to stay out of the limelight as far as the ZHL and similar kits are concerned. My previous comments and personal build of the Le Requin kit from ZHL brought the wrath of "God" in the form of certain individuals who basically desired to destroy me in some way because I had a positive belief that we as model builders were not involved in espionage and simply appreciated building a very high quality kit such as this kit and the Le Requin kit I've been plugging away at.

Enough is enough! I've tried to keep quiet because I own a business and I hate the games some of these people play trying to drag my name through the mud as if I'm some evil person. I'm still a modeler and with over 30 years of experience building model ships I've grown tired of the same old subject matter with poor quality metal cast carvings and parts that don't fit. There's just been no challenge to the kits I've built for my business over the past several years. I've grown so bored with them all that I've quit building all those other kits completely.

I love this kit. I've come very close to buying this kit myself on several occasions and may still buy it someday in the near future. I have no intention or desire to build any more kits and write any more practicums based on those other kits or these kits. My business has plenty of products to offer new model builders who want to learn from my experience. I'm currently writing a 12 volume set of color printed books on every aspect of building a model ship from a kit.

I am making that point because I agree with this group that the ZHL kits are some of the highest quality kits on the market, putting aside all of the accusations that have been made about these kits. It's not about that. It's about an appreciation for what it takes to develop and produce something like this kit. As an experienced kit developer who has used CNC technology, laser cutting technology, and 3D printing technology who is also well versed in the use of CAD and CAM, I know what it takes to develop the drawings needed to CNC carve all of those beautiful carvings that come in this kit and many other such kits. It's pure art and takes hundreds of hours of tedious work, believe me.

I appreciate your build log John, and I want to continue to follow it to the end. Thank you for posting it in this forum. And let me say this. If rumors begin to surface about me with outrageous accusations then so be it. I'm not ashamed to admit that I appreciate the ZHL kits and other similar kits that are seen every day on eBay. I have no intention of engaging people I don't know in argument over that subject so please don't even waste your time or mine if there's anyone reading this who has a desire to test me. I've said my peace and they can simply take it for what it's worth. I'll continue to build my ZHL kit, Le Requin and a POF Mayflower kit I bought off ebay and if that bothers anyone, then sorry 'bout that. They'll get over it.

Bob Hunt
 
G'day Bob
I heard from a friend at some other forum. The man was up in arms over the Russian kits, because he thinks they stole one of his ship designs, until they became one of his sponsors.
Hmmmm two face is he, I think, as Master Yoda, would say.
:eek:
Havagoodone
Greg
 
Thanks guys for all the likes and comments, thaey are much appreciated, and its Good to see you back viewing my log Bob,

anyway its on wards and upwards, erecting the canopy,


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I marked and drilled the four holes for the support poles, due to my little mistake with the carved rails i had to
reconfigure the position of the poles so the front pole on each side didn't get in the way of the last oar position,
this is the first four poles in place.



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Then I put the canopy in place so I could adjust it and mark out the two back pole positions, at this stage
nothing is glued yet.



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view from the top after adjusting the canopy square to the boat



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after I was happy with the positioning, I then glued the poles in position and slid the canopy on over
the poles, adjusted everything for height and then used Super glue to set all in place, then I trimmed off the excess poles that protruded above the canopy with a diamond wheel in my Dremel Rotary drill, Very Carefully,



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The canopy top after trimming the poles back, I then varnished the canopy.
 
This next set of pic are just general views after I have given the canopy one coat of varnish,
I have attached a few at different angles,
I don't know whether to leave the poles brass or paint them black, any idea's,
I hope you enjoy the pics as much as I have building the boat, and a big thank you to Greg
for talking me into doing it now instead of later in the build,



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Thank you for looking,

best regards John.
 
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