Do Not forget to check in which direction the ropes of the running rigging are going outside the hull?
Not that the sheaves are located at the wrong side of the frame.......it is looking very good.....bravo
ZHL Royal Caroline Kit, scale 1/30
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Do Not forget to check in which direction the ropes of the running rigging are going outside the hull?
Not that the sheaves are located at the wrong side of the frame.......it is looking very good.....bravo
G'day John
Should I be planning to do a box for the pulley's assemblies before the final planking and decorations are put in place. Does the rope go one one side and around the pulley and put on the others side?
As per this.....
Please excuse the right sketch.
Havagooday mate
Greg
I forgot about these sheves.
How do you put each of the pulley's axel in place, if you wasnt going to glue them in?Should I be planning to do a box for the pulley's assemblies before the final planking and decorations are put in place. Does the rope go one one side and around the pulley and put on the others side?
As per this.....
Please excuse the right sketch.
Havagooday mate
Greg
Thanks Uwe and Greg, the ropes are coming from forward and pass through the hull behind the pulley,
best regards John.
best regards John.
Just a couple of pics showing the hull masked up for painting of the wales, and after painting.
The wales painted and a close up showing how there will be another plank inserted between the wales,
She is getting a real beauty....looks realy good
Or sweeping it with a broom (the stage)My Mum used to say I should be on the stage,
But it left 10 minutes ago,
.
The decorations look so much better out of carved wood than cast metal.
Cheers Andy
Thanks guys for the nice comments,
best regards John.
best regards John.
Thats all the planking fitted between the wales and varnished
Next up was attaching the veneer to the stem, I wish now that I had done this as a complete piece, but I was
frightened I would damage it, so I left it till now, so I have to cut and fit the veneer, this is the first part attached
to the Stem
Then I had to trim and fit the piece above the rails this shows it marked out for cutting
and after cutting
The piece in place after trimming etc
adding the veneer to the inside of the stem
another view, the vertical post is the support for the figure head, and the small piece of wood that the clamp is
holding is keeping the veneer in place till the glue drys
These next three pics show the stem after all the veneer has been attached and varnished
And now to the other end, ,to construct the rudder, the rudder hinges come in two widths
although the rudder and the stern post are the same thickness, after looking through the
photo's it is obvious that the wider hinges go on the stern post and the narrow ones the
rudder itself, so I had to thin the rudder down, after that it was fairly basic stuff.
Showing how the hinges will attach, if you look up the pic you will see the
difference in width of the hinge parts
For drilling the holes I got a piece of ply that was the same width as the interior of the hinges, and slipped a
hinge on it and drilled the holes, I slightly changed the hole positions on each side so the nails wouldn't interfere
with each other
lower two hinge sets completed, the hinges are not yet fixed
all the hinges attached as well as the spectacle plate
upright view
and how it should look once assembled, the spectacle plate had not been attached when
this pic was taken, and again the hinges are not yet fixed in place, I don't know why they
made the 3rd and 4th hinges that short, I might have a look and see if I can extend them
a bit more.
although the rudder and the stern post are the same thickness, after looking through the
photo's it is obvious that the wider hinges go on the stern post and the narrow ones the
rudder itself, so I had to thin the rudder down, after that it was fairly basic stuff.
Showing how the hinges will attach, if you look up the pic you will see the
difference in width of the hinge parts
For drilling the holes I got a piece of ply that was the same width as the interior of the hinges, and slipped a
hinge on it and drilled the holes, I slightly changed the hole positions on each side so the nails wouldn't interfere
with each other
lower two hinge sets completed, the hinges are not yet fixed
all the hinges attached as well as the spectacle plate
upright view
and how it should look once assembled, the spectacle plate had not been attached when
this pic was taken, and again the hinges are not yet fixed in place, I don't know why they
made the 3rd and 4th hinges that short, I might have a look and see if I can extend them
a bit more.
Hello John,the rudder and hinges ares looking good,you have a little bit more room there for those short hinges.
I agree with Zoltán, the rudder with hinges is looking good. And you are right, the short hinges are looking strange, especially no 3, which has a longer steelplate with 3 bolts at the rudder and only 2 at the stern....
Hi John,
Nice progress. It looks like they took the hinges length from the AotS drawings where the stern post is much shorter then in the model. As I have moved my stern backwards shortening the stern post I hope in my project they will fit.
Did you make the complete rudder thinner by sanding it down? Or made slots in it to fit the hinges?
Regs Maarten
Nice progress. It looks like they took the hinges length from the AotS drawings where the stern post is much shorter then in the model. As I have moved my stern backwards shortening the stern post I hope in my project they will fit.
Did you make the complete rudder thinner by sanding it down? Or made slots in it to fit the hinges?
Regs Maarten
Thanks guys for your comments and likes,
best regards John.
best regards John.
G'day Maarten, I ran it through the saw table and took a shaving off each side, then finished with sandpaper, I have never seen the hinges cut into the rudder before, thanks for looking at my build guys,
best regards John.
G'day John
Again mate, excellent job and a very informative post, for all of us to read. A huge thanks!
Regarding the rudder, as you know, I'm going to 'wedge' my stern post from thicker at the top to a smaller at the keel.
Should I trim my rudder down to match the stern post?
These are some photo's of Doris's RC showing what I mean.
As you can see, Doris has made the thickness of the rudder a 'wedge' shape.
Please note: that Doris's hinges are different to the kit! And they look better to me!
Thanks for all your help.
Havagooday mate
Greg
Again mate, excellent job and a very informative post, for all of us to read. A huge thanks!
Regarding the rudder, as you know, I'm going to 'wedge' my stern post from thicker at the top to a smaller at the keel.
Should I trim my rudder down to match the stern post?
These are some photo's of Doris's RC showing what I mean.
As you can see, Doris has made the thickness of the rudder a 'wedge' shape.
Please note: that Doris's hinges are different to the kit! And they look better to me!
Thanks for all your help.
Havagooday mate
Greg
G'day Greg, like I said to you about tapering the Stern Post from top to bottom, you will have to taper the rudder as well, also the rudder would taper from the front edge to the back,
Best regards John
Best regards John
Thanks John for that information. I would assume the best way to do that would be to trim both sides of the rudder from the centre before I joined them together.
Am I correct in that assumption?
Havagooday mate
Greg
Am I correct in that assumption?
Havagooday mate
Greg
Hi Greg,
That sounds like an excellent idea, it keeps the the nice profile on the outside. I think I copy your idea.
Regs Maarten
That sounds like an excellent idea, it keeps the the nice profile on the outside. I think I copy your idea.
Regs Maarten
G'day Greg, it doesn't matter which way you do it, whether it is unglued or glued together, you have to allow for the taper that is already there, mine was already glued so I had to remove stuff from the outer faces,
best regards John
best regards John