ZHL Royal Caroline Kit, scale 1/30

These next pics show the fitting of the sheaves in the side of the hull...:...............

The back sheave is glued in place showing how it will be easier to get a rope through, while the front sheave is
just sitting in place to show what I mean about how hard it would be without filing the pulley down
............
The sheave for the fore sheet I believe.

Do Not forget to check in which direction the ropes of the running rigging are going outside the hull?
Not that the sheaves are located at the wrong side of the frame.......it is looking very good.....bravo
 
G'day John
I forgot about these sheves.
How do you put each of the pulley's axel in place, if you wasnt going to glue them in?
Should I be planning to do a box for the pulley's assemblies before the final planking and decorations are put in place. Does the rope go one one side and around the pulley and put on the others side?
As per this.....
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Please excuse the right sketch.:rolleyes:
Havagooday mate
Greg
 
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Thats all the planking fitted between the wales and varnished




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Next up was attaching the veneer to the stem, I wish now that I had done this as a complete piece, but I was
frightened I would damage it, so I left it till now, so I have to cut and fit the veneer, this is the first part attached
to the Stem


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Then I had to trim and fit the piece above the rails this shows it marked out for cutting



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and after cutting



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The piece in place after trimming etc



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adding the veneer to the inside of the stem



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another view, the vertical post is the support for the figure head, and the small piece of wood that the clamp is
holding is keeping the veneer in place till the glue drys



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These next three pics show the stem after all the veneer has been attached and varnished


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And now to the other end, ,to construct the rudder, the rudder hinges come in two widths
although the rudder and the stern post are the same thickness, after looking through the
photo's it is obvious that the wider hinges go on the stern post and the narrow ones the
rudder itself, so I had to thin the rudder down, after that it was fairly basic stuff.



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Showing how the hinges will attach, if you look up the pic you will see the
difference in width of the hinge parts



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For drilling the holes I got a piece of ply that was the same width as the interior of the hinges, and slipped a
hinge on it and drilled the holes, I slightly changed the hole positions on each side so the nails wouldn't interfere
with each other


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lower two hinge sets completed, the hinges are not yet fixed



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all the hinges attached as well as the spectacle plate


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upright view



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and how it should look once assembled, the spectacle plate had not been attached when
this pic was taken, and again the hinges are not yet fixed in place, I don't know why they
made the 3rd and 4th hinges that short, I might have a look and see if I can extend them
a bit more.
 
Hello John,the rudder and hinges ares looking good,you have a little bit more room there for those short hinges.
 
I agree with Zoltán, the rudder with hinges is looking good. And you are right, the short hinges are looking strange, especially no 3, which has a longer steelplate with 3 bolts at the rudder and only 2 at the stern....
 
Hi John,

Nice progress. It looks like they took the hinges length from the AotS drawings where the stern post is much shorter then in the model. As I have moved my stern backwards shortening the stern post I hope in my project they will fit.
Did you make the complete rudder thinner by sanding it down? Or made slots in it to fit the hinges?

Regs Maarten
 
Hi John,

Nice progress. It looks like they took the hinges length from the AotS drawings where the stern post is much shorter then in the model. As I have moved my stern backwards shortening the stern post I hope in my project they will fit.
Did you make the complete rudder thinner by sanding it down? Or made slots in it to fit the hinges?

Regs Maarten



G'day Maarten, I ran it through the saw table and took a shaving off each side, then finished with sandpaper, I have never seen the hinges cut into the rudder before, thanks for looking at my build guys,

best regards John.
 
G'day John
Again mate, excellent job and a very informative post, for all of us to read. A huge thanks!
Regarding the rudder, as you know, I'm going to 'wedge' my stern post from thicker at the top to a smaller at the keel.
Should I trim my rudder down to match the stern post?
These are some photo's of Doris's RC showing what I mean.
Screenshot_20180313-053729.jpg
Screenshot_20180313-053646.jpg
As you can see, Doris has made the thickness of the rudder a 'wedge' shape.
Please note: that Doris's hinges are different to the kit! And they look better to me!
Thanks for all your help.
Havagooday mate
Greg
 
G'day Greg, like I said to you about tapering the Stern Post from top to bottom, you will have to taper the rudder as well, also the rudder would taper from the front edge to the back,

Best regards John
 
Thanks John for that information. I would assume the best way to do that would be to trim both sides of the rudder from the centre before I joined them together.
Am I correct in that assumption?
Havagooday mate
Greg
 
G'day Greg, it doesn't matter which way you do it, whether it is unglued or glued together, you have to allow for the taper that is already there, mine was already glued so I had to remove stuff from the outer faces,

best regards John
 
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