Well, I haven’t seen any of your personal limitations yet Dean, so we’ll see where your vision takes it!so we will see how far I go, given what I have to work with and my personal limits.
NORSKE LOVE - Billing Boats 1:75 scale
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Morning Dean,
A well written and illustrated tutorial on how to ensure your frames are aligned, parallel to one another, perpendicular to your reference frame... I am most pleased with the relative simplicity (but no less effective) of your solution; in that regard I am a fervent supporter of the KISS-axiom.
The one thing that bugged me over the weekend was the 57,5mm lengths for your distance holders, just not understanding where that particular dimension was coming from. I remembered seeing a pitch of 60mm between bulkheads, but I missed the 57,5mm dimension.
But I found it; in post #15, you show figure 1A of the build plans and there it's shown; the lengths of the distance holders.
In another post, from Henk Liebre, another method was described and illustrated on the application of temporary distance holders, in this case for the POF Bluenose.
What Henk's and your posts underline for me is the importance of getting a proper "foundation"; if you get this wrong, the rest of one's build will be bothersome, at best. In the case of the partially exposed frames of the POF BN esthetics also play an important role.
And for me, I don't mind a single bit you sharing your methods on SOS, please keep doing just that!
Johan
yes. one main deck. this was mainly used
I build it early 70. the 1st was not laser cut. hard work to hand cut the ship. still have the saw
the one behind these picture is Karl Maize -here Kaliboot--
As you can see, the Bulkheads are rather thin -difficult to ad two strips together here. What I did, was to make a copy of each one, cut them by hAlves and glued to each bulkhead. from the midsection and forward to the bow, and the from mid towards the Steam on the backsideAll frames are on the keel finally! Spacer boards up top are a little random, but my only goal was to maintain an exact distance at 3 points (1 on keel, 2 port and starboard up top) within less than 1/2 mm. I measured each one in multiple places along the width as I installed them and they all pass! This is a straight, square assembly!
First milestone…
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Would it have been an option to apply the strips of veneer the the keel at the appropriate locations?
YES. At least with the very old model. Later they changed somewhat. the false keel was longer to add strip here. the was then two pieces of 1 mm to be glued on each side of the bow and stern keel, stern and bow part in one piece ass well piece to add. bow 1`4+1=6, bow and stern part the same. the false keel 4 mm. makes it easy to make a bow filler and the garboard, to make perfect planking.
Thank you , welcome aboard!
Thank you Lou, I plan to do some carving, so we will see...lol!
I am adding my instruction manual -the 1Th with Laser Cut, Riggen Bloks in Wood, but nearly all extra are in Plastic.. 2nd my basic tools-.at that time. the saw I still have
IMO, it was best to shim the frames themselves (in the notch), verses adding to the keel, bow and stern, as that would have required adding veneer to the entire surface both sides! This is not needed because the keel, at stern and bow, have additional pieces added at the edges to eliminate the need for a rabbet by terminating the boards at the raised edge. This will become apparent later in the build. The garboard plank has no provision for that, so I will be adding some veneer to the keel board below the garboard plank, to use the same method.
I also intend to use balsa blocks, bow and stern, and possibly between frames, or at least add some additional material to the sides of each frame to help with fairing and hull planking, as this is a single plank hull.
this was what i tried to explain but languages??IMO, it was best to shim the frames themselves (in the notch), verses adding to the keel, bow and stern, as that would have required adding veneer to the entire surface both sides! This is not needed because the keel, at stern and bow, have additional pieces added at the edges to eliminate the need for a rabbet by terminating the boards at the raised edge. This will become apparent later in the build. The garboard plank has no provision for that, so I will be adding some veneer to the keel board below the garboard plank, to use the same method.
The instructions look the same, very little text, and mainly some basic 3d views and full scale plans.
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I’ve only done one so far on my BP. It probably looked better than the square sails, but I couldn’t figure out where to tie up the lower part of the spar and the flappy corner of the sail. I did some research online but found very little. I suppose I should buy a book on 16th century rigging. Then I would know what that flappy corner was called.
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Adding the veneer was at minimum the result of some careful thinking and planning ahead.IMO, it was best to shim the frames themselves (in the notch), verses adding to the keel, bow and stern, as that would have required adding veneer to the entire surface both sides! This is not needed because the keel, at stern and bow, have additional pieces added at the edges to eliminate the need for a rabbet by terminating the boards at the raised edge. This will become apparent later in the build. The garboard plank has no provision for that, so I will be adding some veneer to the keel board below the garboard plank, to use the same method.
I understand now why you opted for shimming the bulkheads, instead of the keel members.
Up to the next update. Enjoying the show immensely.
You are making very good progress and the hull is beginning to show itself from the skeleton in place. RichAll frames are on the keel finally! Spacer boards up top are a little random, but my only goal was to maintain an exact distance at 3 points (1 on keel, 2 port and starboard up top) within less than 1/2 mm. I measured each one in multiple places along the width as I installed them and they all pass! This is a straight, square assembly!
First milestone…
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I planked the false deck… as you may know I prefer a dull finish on the deck, with an aged look I get from stain, scraping and steel wool. The idea is if the deck is dull and everything around it is pristine looking, it gives it a more natural worn look, and at the same time makes the other details stand out more. That’s my logic anyway.
Here is the false deck and I will install it permanently next, and put in the side walls and paint them black. There is a set of stairs that go down to the false deck with a railing around it. So you don’t really see much of it.
Here is the false deck and I will install it permanently next, and put in the side walls and paint them black. There is a set of stairs that go down to the false deck with a railing around it. So you don’t really see much of it.
Walls are in and painted black. Next I have to add the cross beams where the notches are. This is where the deck opening will be, with the double stairs attached to the side towards the bow.
