Glad Tidings Pinky by DUncan - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

Those who may have thought I have given up working on the Pinky, I have not. I’m just taking my time. Working on the cabins. I’m still holding back on painting. I enjoy looking at the wood but I know I will have it address the painting soon.

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Good morning Duncan- I was wondering where you disappeared to. Wow you have produced some fine work on your Pinky. (Sounds funny not the toe ROTF). Is that Pear wood. It is lovely. Cheers Grant
 
Just to add some data to your hard drive....
I had friends that lived and sailed around the world, and across the Atlantic a few times. on a Pinky named le Papillon.
She was built of steel (Colvin design) by her owner Tom Lemm, and painted green with cream colored deck and white houses and spars.
I think Pinks were traditionally dark green, Pungys are pink, I know that.

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I’m going to use the Pleiades Olympia, WA as my model. It is newer and has a motor. (Need to find a small propeller.). There are many photos on the internet for me to follow. The hull color looks black. The picture Jerry sent me also looks black. Could it really be a very dark green?

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Good morning Duncan. It is going to be hard to paint over that beautiful woodwork. Thumbsup. Cheers Grant
 
This is obviously dark green. Are the sails red? Is that traditional also? All the photos I have of the Pleiades the hull looks very black with the deep red sails. I found some older photos of the Pleiades with a white hull. Both old and new were red below the waterline. Thanks for the pictures. I am still trying to get to courage to start painting.
I got some Varathane wood conditioner to use as a sanding sealer. I put it on some scrap wood to see if it holds the acrylic paint. The sealer even out the wood and any discoloration do to the glue but it looks too slick to hold the acrylic. I want to us acrylics because there are more colors to choose from. For my last model I had to mix oil base colors to get the red I wanted for below the waterline.
 
Pleiades shows Tanbark sails (brick red or maroon). I think by the time Papillon was sold she had a full suit of tanbark sails, but the few times I saw her in person they were white. Two trips around the world, and at least 6 round trips to Europe, I'm sure she needed new sails at some point.
White cotton canvas sails were prone to mold, which lead to rot, so sails were soaked in Tannis from tree bark, which was also used in "tanning" leather. This made the cloth mold resistant and turned it that red-brown color. Flax sails were naturally more mold resistant, but always a grayish color.
Anyway, yes, working boats with tanbark sails would be a pretty common sight, including pinks. Modern sailmakers offer Tanbark colored Dacron sails so folks that want to hark back to a wrokboat heritage, or just want something other than white sails.
 
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Well, it just arrived. I am very excited. This is going to be a challenge for me. I have read a lot of build logs and my conclusion is, when I finish this build, I will have learned much about model ship building. It look like only half of those that started this build acturally finish.

First question: how do you flatten out the plans?
Hallo @Duncan
We wish you all the Best and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
enjoy your Special day
 
I’m getting ready to paint. I tried the Varathane wood conditioner on some scrap pieces. It covered ok. I did some sanding with 220 and put on a light coat of acrylic. Let it dry for 2days. The acrylic was easily removed with my fingernail. I don’t think the sanding sealer is the way it got with acrylics.
I put a thin coat of acrylic on a scrap piece of wood. After a light sanding (220) on the bare wood and the acrylic held well.
I really want to use the acrylics because of the great selection of colors.
 
Wood really doesn’t need anything like a sealer to hold acrylics well, but when I have applied metal parts that will be painted in situ, I like to give the whole thing a coat of regular grey automotive primer from a spray can.
 
I believe the conditioner is to prep for staining and not a primer. Varathane has conditioners for both oil and water based stains, which one did you use?

Plastic also needs a primer, be sure to use one designed for plastic. I've been using Tamiya model primer with good results. It's thinner than you get in the full sized cans so the small details don't get covered.
 
Will I did it. Those who have been following this build know how reluctant I have been about painting. I am very pleased with the way this looks. It is ModelExpo Hull Copper Red MS4814. I plan to water down the second coat to catch what I missed with the first coat but not hide the planking.
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