Glad Tidings Pinky by DUncan - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

Jimsky said:
Yes, you are correct. The surface must be clean from grease and oxidation. A soapy solution will work just fine to remove grease, and vinegar will remove oxidation. If you didn't solder the parts, you can clean them with Windes. It works OK. Usually, I clean the surfaces with sandpaper before removing them from the frets.

Also, you should experiment with a blackening solution. some brass alloys are different from others and will require some experimentation with proportion water and blackening solution. I use Brassblack and usually do 1 part blackening solution diluted in 5 parts of water. it is a slow process, but it will adhere to the surface better.
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I didn't know about diluting blackener. That's a good tip. The bottle I have doesn't say anything about it.
 
Namabiiru said:
I didn't know about diluting blackener. That's a good tip. The bottle I have doesn't say anything about it.
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I am not sure about different brands of blackening solutions (there are many of them), but Brassblack can and should be diluted (IMHO). But...you have to experiment and test, we have some cases where brass just dissolves... ;)
 
Thanks to all. I tried Jimsky’s directions and the results was what I was looking for. I left the brass/copper parts in the 1/4 Brassblack/water solution for about 30 minutes. After rinsing them in water and brushing them with a Q-tip, the result was a nice gray patina.

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Brother Duncan:
Your vessel is looking good! If you want to read about pinky history and the source of this particular design, which adapts the type as a yacht, get ahold of a copy of "American Sailing Craft" by Howard Chapelle. The book was originally published in 1936 but reprints are available. The date of 1937 on the box is consistent with publication of the book. Chapelle describes his design as having somewhat finer lines than the older working craft and a leg-of-mutton mainsail in lieu of the traditional gaff mainsail. Chapelle also discusses pinkys and presents some drawings and a photo in "The National Watercraft Collection: Second Edition." I believe that lines presented in that book are available from the Smithsonian Institution. Marine Model Company used to offer a kit for a solid hull pinky model in 1/4" scale. The company is no more but a surviving kit or plans may be available.

If you want to sail on a replica of an 1812 pinky, get yourself to Salem MA and get a ticket for the Fame (or at least check out the website). Pic below. Great fun!

Fair winds!

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In Olya’s video “Details” of her build of the Pinky Schooner she masks off the deck area and sprays it with something. Does anyone know why and what is the spray?
 
Duncan said:
In Olya’s video “Details” of her build of the Pinky Schooner she masks off the deck area and sprays it with something. Does anyone know why and what is the spray?
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Ohla sprays thin CA onto the entire deck after drilling tiny holes for the trenails. The CA fills the holes and makes good simulations of plank trenails. The deck is then carefully resanded with a small sanding block. After brushing off the fine sawdust, the deck is coated with MinWax Tung Oil Finish to bring the color back out. This is a procedure she has used on several models. The results speak for themselves. I am a big fan of her work. Her videos taught me how to make realistic sails. She uses common materials to make most uncommonly nice models.
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Applying MinWax Tung Oil Finish. See how the CA filled trenails stand out.
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Now on to the Chain Plate & Deadeyes. I watched Olya (video “Shrouds”). All her hand bent shackles look the same. My shackles were all noticeably different. So I made this bending jig and they all look somewhat similar. It’s just round paint brush handle with a rectangular piece of wood with a small nail through it. Made 6 in about 45 minutes.

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Well, here’s my soldering of the pin through the shackle. I started with rosin core solder but it just wanted to pull back on to the soldering iron. What worked for me was non rosin core solder. I put a dab of flux on the tip of the pin where I wanted it leave the blob of solder, cut a 2 mm piece of 2 mm 60/40 solder, melted it to the tip of the iron and touched it to the tip of the pin. After a few seconds heating the pin with the blob of solder at the end of the iron, I pulled the iron away from the pin and the blob stayed on the end of the pin. The result needs a little clean up but I think from a normal viewing distance it should be ok.

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What also helped, I think, was a hemostats that I ground down to a sharp point. This may have also acted as a heat sink that might have control solder flow. It also gives me a good hold to finish the blob.

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Mounting hardware to the hull. Markings and drilling pilot holds for the nails is not working for me. (My hand is not steady enough and the bit wobbles too much. ) For this hull a common pin pressed into the wood works good for me and holds the part in location until the nails are inserted. A little CA to keep everything in place.

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Duncan said:
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Well, it just arrived. I am very excited. This is going to be a challenge for me. I have read a lot of build logs and my conclusion is, when I finish this build, I will have learned much about model ship building. It look like only half of those that started this build acturally finish.

First question: how do you flatten out the plans?
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I also have bought this model. Im a little intimidated so have been building other models to get ready. Amazing that only half the modelers finish. Watch olha to feel diminished haha
 
I like Olha’s videos in that I see what the results should be. But there is no explanation as to why she does what she does. She is obviously very skilled and steady handed (I am not.) Her videos are very entertaining but not as educational as I would want being a amateur and doing this for mental stimulation.
 
Duncan said:
I like Olha’s videos in that I see what the results should be. But there is no explanation as to why she does what she does. She is obviously very skilled and steady handed (I am not.) Her videos are very entertaining but not as educational as I would want being a amateur and doing this for mental stimulation.
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You could ask Ohla specific questions about a model technique if it is not clear since she's a member of the forum.
 
I have asked Ohia questions and she has answered. All that I am saying is her videos are entertaining and shows you what things should look like when they are finished but they are not educational. Example: she is constructing a shackle bolt. You see a probe with something on it touch the pin and then a soldering iron pick up a small blob of solder and place it on the pin. What and why the stuff on the probe? There is no question that Ohia is a mistress of model ship building but her videos do not teach dummies like me.
 
Duncan said:
I have asked Ohia questions and she has answered. All that I am saying is her videos are entertaining and shows you what things should look like when they are finished but they are not educational. Example: she is constructing a shackle bolt. You see a probe with something on it touch the pin and then a soldering iron pick up a small blob of solder and place it on the pin. What and why the stuff on the probe? There is no question that Ohia is a mistress of model ship building but her videos do not teach dummies like me.
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I understand, being an unofficial student of Ohla's. I learned sailmaking from her videos. Many of the steps that beginners need to know the techniques are not shown. Ohla's videos are not aimed at beginners, but seem to be best for intermediate modelers. At least we have access to Ohla and this forum for Q&A, and can eventually get some help. I encourage you to ask ANY questions, no matter how basic they are. Since most of us are at an intermediate skill level or higher, it is easy for us to assume that new members have modeling and tool experience, but we are here to help. If you need to provide pictures with your questions in order to make them clear and specific, please do. If you don't know how to post pictures, we can help with that tool. No matter where you are on the ladder of experience, there are those above and below you that will benefit from your input. Best wishes!

Kurt
 
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