Good morning Duncan- that is an awesome below the waterline color- almost rustic copper red From the photo. Good thinking re the paint as it is always nice to see the planking through. Cheers Grant
Glad Tidings Pinky by DUncan - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
The rudder and hardware are almost finished. (The Pleiades Olympia, WA has a small motor. Thus the prop. )
Looking for some way to simulate the bolts that hold all this together. The nails in the kit are much to small. Maybe some 1 to 1.5 mm brass rod might work.
Looking for some way to simulate the bolts that hold all this together. The nails in the kit are much to small. Maybe some 1 to 1.5 mm brass rod might work.
Starting the bulwark.
The directions says “the bulwark will probably be the most difficult construction task on this particular model”. Just reading the directions has my head spinning. Now I understand why most of the building logs I have viewed for this model on SOS and other ship model sites never finish. I hope I will not be on that list. Olha made it look so easy.
The directions says “the bulwark will probably be the most difficult construction task on this particular model”. Just reading the directions has my head spinning. Now I understand why most of the building logs I have viewed for this model on SOS and other ship model sites never finish. I hope I will not be on that list. Olha made it look so easy.
To simulate bolts for the rudder hinges I used 1.5 mm stainless ballbearings.
Using the ball cutter I made a divot in the brass to location the bolts (aka ballbearings).
Then a little yellow glue from the syringe. The 1.5 mm ball is difficult to pickup. Just put the twisters into the bag and you will catch a ball. The glue acts like a magnet so it is easy to position the ball in the divot.
The glue does not hold the ball for serious abuse because they are stainless steel but the primer and paint will secure them well enough for display purposes.
Still working on the bulwarks.
Using the ball cutter I made a divot in the brass to location the bolts (aka ballbearings).
Then a little yellow glue from the syringe. The 1.5 mm ball is difficult to pickup. Just put the twisters into the bag and you will catch a ball. The glue acts like a magnet so it is easy to position the ball in the divot.
The glue does not hold the ball for serious abuse because they are stainless steel but the primer and paint will secure them well enough for display purposes.
Still working on the bulwarks.
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Progress report.
There’s must be a number of solutions for building the bulwarks. This is mine.
First the aft bulwark section was built.
Then stanchions G through Q were glued in place and the aft bulwark was glued in place along with stanchions R and S.
Then all the forward stanchions, A through F, were glued in place using the angles indicated on drawing 2. Next a rough build of the “hawse timber & knight head” on the forward bulwark was built and glued just between the bowsprit and stanchion A. When it was secure (over night) the bulwark was bent and glued against the forward stanchions.
To cut all the stanchions to the same high. I drilled a hole in a metal bar 1/8” thick and placed it over the stanchion and cut it off with a Dremel cut-off disk.
There’s must be a number of solutions for building the bulwarks. This is mine.
First the aft bulwark section was built.
Then stanchions G through Q were glued in place and the aft bulwark was glued in place along with stanchions R and S.
Then all the forward stanchions, A through F, were glued in place using the angles indicated on drawing 2. Next a rough build of the “hawse timber & knight head” on the forward bulwark was built and glued just between the bowsprit and stanchion A. When it was secure (over night) the bulwark was bent and glued against the forward stanchions.
To cut all the stanchions to the same high. I drilled a hole in a metal bar 1/8” thick and placed it over the stanchion and cut it off with a Dremel cut-off disk.
Will the stanchions, bulwark and cap rail are finished. It was a lot of work. The preliminary sanding is done. Next the first coat of paint to reveal the imperfections that need some attention. Then on to the bowsprit and deck hardware.
If anyone is interested, I have not given up on this project. I have just been very busy with other things. I can wait to get back to working on this model. Thanks for the weekly notices of other activities.
Duncan, looking forward to you starting up again on the "Pinky". Nice work so far. Enjoyed your progress. Magic Mike
Thanks for the will wishes. The Pinky keeps call me to work on her. This has been a very busy summer. I am looking forward to the
Autumn so I can start again working on the hull painting and the rigging. I think I will try to get the hull secured to the display stand soon.
Autumn so I can start again working on the hull painting and the rigging. I think I will try to get the hull secured to the display stand soon.
It’s been a long time since I worked on the Glad Tidings Pinky but here I am working again. Life has slowed me up. Also how to fashion the display mount and what colors to use has also slowed me down.
Here’s the start of the display mounting.
Still need a lot of work.
Here’s the start of the display mounting.
Still need a lot of work.
5/22/24 The hull painting is finished. The deck is next. It needs a little touch up before I glue down the cabins.
Looking very good - with this perspective view, the extreme form of the stern is pointed
Pinky schooners sailed out of Cape Ann from the early eighteen hundreds. "Pinky" means that the stern is "pinked" or pinched together which indicates a pointed stern.
Latest picture of progress.
The little block and ring connection to the mail sheet horse has kept me busy for a while. Finally I decided to fabricated the ring and connection to the block from #22 copper wire. Much easier to handle than the brass. I used Birchwood Brass Black for the color.
I rigged 100 cannon with gun tackles the same way. GOOD GOD it took a long time! The key is patience.
I’m not happy with the way these brass parts turned out after the Brass Black process. It might be the oils from my hand. There’s a lot of handling during the fabrication of the parts. Maybe I need to wash them in some kind of solvent? Any suggestions.
Yes, you are correct. The surface must be clean from grease and oxidation. A soapy solution will work just fine to remove grease, and vinegar will remove oxidation. If you didn't solder the parts, you can clean them with Windes. It works OK. Usually, I clean the surfaces with sandpaper before removing them from the frets.
Also, you should experiment with a blackening solution. some brass alloys are different from others and will require some experimentation with proportion water and blackening solution. I use Brassblack and usually do 1 part blackening solution diluted in 5 parts of water. it is a slow process, but it will adhere to the surface better.
Also, you should experiment with a blackening solution. some brass alloys are different from others and will require some experimentation with proportion water and blackening solution. I use Brassblack and usually do 1 part blackening solution diluted in 5 parts of water. it is a slow process, but it will adhere to the surface better.
