Your planking looks terrific. Will the 1.5 thickness of the planks affect the vertical placing of the Captains door wall ?
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When it is pinkish it is steamed.I think, but am not sure, that the pear I am using is steamed. The billets have a pinkish colour but I’ll try to find out for sure.
Ok thanks.When it is pinkish it is steamed.
I'm not entirely sure whether the steamed or unsteamed pear wood is supplied by YQ, but when asked, I would say the unsteamed variety.One hundred percent correct Stephan. That is why I showed the two different types (Sampan = steamed; Leudo = unsteamed). I am not sure which variety @RogerD is using. I think I need to call in our Bluenose builders (@Peter Voogt Peter and @RDN1954 Johan) for their opinion!![]()
Thank you Jan. Yes, it does affect the captain's cabin wall as it now sits more elevated than it would have with the Abachi planks. That is not a deal beaker though - a little filing here and sanding there would rectify that issue.Your planking looks terrific. Will the 1.5 thickness of the planks affect the vertical placing of the Captains door wall ?
Thank you very much Johan! I LOVE The color of the planking on the exterior of the hull - in essence that finish almost looks to fall in the same color palette range than the CLOU stain I have used on the exterior of the WB#2. However, that might just mean that I won't have enough of a color contrast between the deck and the deck furnishings. The second picture with the semi-gloss finish shows the kind of finish that I think @RogerD and I would be interested in because it is so much lighter in appearance.I'm not entirely sure whether the steamed or unsteamed pear wood is supplied by YQ, but when asked, I would say the unsteamed variety.
On the starboard hull planking I applied a cherry-colored stain, finished with two layersof semi gloss varnish, the rich coloring primarily originating from the stain. The colors seem to darken a little bit more over time, but it doesn't show the variety of colors @Peter Voogt's model shows.
By the way, the transom still shows the untreated pear.
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For all decks I purchased some pear wooden strips, which I think are of the unsteamed variety.
The decks of the focsle, fishholds and aft cabin are finished with three coats of semi-gloss finish only and are substantially lighter than the stained outside hull planks. As you can see they do show a rather benign tone-variation:
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The fwd deck hasn't been finished yet. I am considering to give the fwd- and quarter deck the same treatment as the starboard hull: cherry colored stain and a semi-gloss varnish. Still undecided though.
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Thank you very much for the reminder, Dean. At this point I think that is probably the way I will go as I cannot really afford a deck that is much darker than what it is now. Any darker and it will not offset the deck furnishings!As you may remember, I only used a satin clear coat on my BN hull planking, where not painted.
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That is a good suggestion, Hans that I will certainly try out. Thank you!You can always try a little bit of extra diluted Clou (f.i. 50% already made clou with 50% water). The more you dilute it, the lighter it will be.
Good morning Heinrich. I really like the pear wood colour and I personally think going too dark would spoil this. You are in a quandary and I would be too. As you are building this WB authentically do you know what the original shade of the deck where back then? Cheers GrantThank you so much Roger! I am so happy that the Dutch chose a random planking pattern as I can never hope to achieve the level of precision that you have shown with planking the Syren's deck - what a beautiful ship your Syren is turning out to be. As to the thought processes, I honestly thought I had it nailed, but over the weekend two things have come to light (one of them is quite serious) which has challenged my whole design layout at the stern.
As the deck finish, I will still have to think long and hard about that and do various tests. I love the CLOU but using that is not going to give me any contrast with the rest of the deck fittings. Tung Oil (a perennial favorite of mine) may also result in a deck that is too dark. In summary, at this point, I do not have a cooking clue as to what I will use!![]()
I’m with Paul here. I think the “one”Quick update:
Planking is slow but satisfying. I know it looks like the dog's breakfast now, but this might just work.
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Thank you, my friend! The only yardstick that I have as to the color of the deck is that of the replica. You will see that the "wear" and weathering have had a marked effect on the color of the deck.Good morning Heinrich. I really like the pear wood colour and I personally think going too dark would spoil this. You are in a quandary and I would be too. As you are building this WB authentically do you know what the original shade of the deck where back then? Cheers Grant
Another detail; in the weathered areas of the deck, the trennels are hardly visible, unless you zome in really close.Thank you, my friend! The only yardstick that I have as to the color of the deck is that of the replica. You will see that the "wear" and weathering have had a marked effect on the color of the deck.
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This picture was taken when the deck was still very new. If the whole deck had maintained that "orangy" look, I would have been with using the CLOU stain as is, but after having been in the water for a while and exposed to the elements, we now have this "greyish" tone.
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As long as I do not make the deck too dark, the Pear wood should not really pose a problem - in its untreated form, the Pear is quite close to this.
Absolutely, Johan. That is why I do not even bother with those.Another detail; in the weathered areas of the deck, the trennels are hardly visible, unless you zome in really close.
Thank you for the suggestion, Stephan. If I could have laid my hands on a well-known product with which characteristics, I am familiar with, I may have looked at it, but in China the risk is just too great ending up with the wrong thing.try bleech
Just try on a piece of wood with a cotton tip. Bleach is also used to whitening wood and it works. No problems at all. After you can use oil to threatened the wood. You have bleach under the sink?Thank you for the suggestion, Stephan. If I could have laid my hands on a well-known product with which characteristics, I am familiar with, I may have looked at it, but in China the risk is just too great ending up with the wrong thing.
I will see if I can find bleach with the help of the admiral this weekend.Just try on a piece of wood with a cotton tip. Bleach is also used to whitening wood and it works. No problems at all. After you can use oil to threatened the wood. You have bleach under the sink?
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when you tip just parts of the wood, then the wood could be look weathering. Just give it a try and maybe it works on the pear.