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HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Heinrich said:
Dear Friends

I wish I could show you more, but there is just so little build time now. A wee bit of progress on the deck planking.

View attachment 329675
I have also added the front hatch which will accommodate the anchor cables. That hatch will be covered by the front canopy and will largely be invisible, but I have included it in any case. Towards the rear you can see the "Kolderstok" just loosely placed on the deck. The Ab Hoving version uses a whip staff instead, but I like the Kolderstok. The jury is still out as to which one I will go for in the end.
Click to expand...
I really like all the warm wood tones on this ship!
I would test your clear or finish technique on a few scrap pieces of pear and put them next to the deck furnishings prior to making a commitment. And I have to say that making the deck weathered is a balancing act, because you don't have any weathering techniques any on the ship thus far. Therefore I suggest a very mild weathering technique if you chose to use one. One way of weathering, is after applying a clear coat, you just use very fine sandpaper (600 or finer), or simply use some steel wool (0000). This will knock most of the shine off and show a natural wear from foot traffic, without sun aging. The UV from the sun creates the grey color. I feel the grey would be out of place with the current wood tones, so I would lean towards just sanding or steel wool.
In conclusion, this is merely my opinion. So I recommend testing on some scrap pieces and making your own judgement call, based on results. ;)
 
Dean62 said:
I really like all the warm wood tones on this ship!
I would test your clear or finish technique on a few scrap pieces of pear and put them next to the deck furnishings prior to making a commitment. And I have to say that making the deck weathered is a balancing act, because you don't have any weathering techniques any on the ship thus far. Therefore I suggest a very mild weathering technique if you chose to use one. One way of weathering, is after applying a clear coat, you just use very fine sandpaper (600 or finer), or simply use some steel wool (0000). This will knock most of the shine off and show a natural wear from foot traffic, without sun aging. The UV from the sun creates the grey color. I feel the grey would be out of place with the current wood tones, so I would lean towards just sanding or steel wool.
In conclusion, this is merely my opinion. So I recommend testing on some scrap pieces and making your own judgement call, based on results. ;)
Click to expand...
Hello Dean. Thank you so much for the suggestions. I agree 100% with the weathering of the deck _ I have no intention at all to employ any weathering - as you rightly say, it would be out of kilter with the rest of the ship. I merely pointed out the weathered/greyish look in response to @GrantTyler Grant's question as to whether I have examples of what the deck looks like. The only "weathering" that will take place is just to make sure that there is no "shine" on the deck - other than that, it will remain as is. I do have some 1000-grit sandpaper so that should work well to ensure there is no shine. As always, your input is greatly appreciated. Thumbsup
 
Kolderstok said:
Vinegar turns abachi into a nice weathered grey, but I don’t know if it works on pear.
Click to expand...
Hello Hans. The vinegar/steel wool technique is something I am aware of but seeing that the natural Pear is substantially darker than the Abachi, I would be very weary of something that would potentially make the deck even darker.
 
dockattner said:
Heinrich, you just shared with me the importance of remaining internally consistent. Would weathered decks fit the overall appearance/style of your ship?
Click to expand...
Hi Paul. As you can see in my answer to Dean, weathering is something that I tend to stay away from as far as I can. Not only would it be out of character with the rest of the ship, but I simply do not have the expertise to do that in a controlled fashion. However, I also have to be careful of not ending up with a deck that looks too fancy or beautifully finished as that would also be out of line with the rest of the ship. :)
 
Jimsky said:
I would ask the same question as Paul a.c.a. Doc @dockattner, If you make a decision to show the weathering, then it should be consistent with the entire model, IMHO. Perhaps you are the captain to decide what and how to build. :cool:
Click to expand...
Hello Jim. Rest assured, Whilst I am in the greatest awe of the work done by someone like @shelk on his ST models, I do not have the know-how to attempt that - also, like you rightly say, it would not be in line with the rest of the ship. The only reason I mentioned weathering is just to show the current state of how the replica's deck looks. Therefore, the idea is to use a finish that will alter the appearance of the deck as little as possible. Thank you very much for your input - it is always appreciated.
 
Hallo Dear Friends

微信图片_20220923200223.jpg
The deck planking has been done and given an initial scraping. After making a few tests as to the finish of the deck, I have eliminated a few possibilities. The CLOU - even in diluted form - is not going to work here. It will not make the deck darker, but it gives it the same gold color as the deck fittings - thus no contrast. The Shellac does not work either as it is hardly noticeable. I haven't yet had the opportunity of testing the clear Polyurethane finish, but I have the sneaky suspicion that this deck only wants Tung Oil. In fact, in my heart of hearts that is what I also want to use, but that does mean a l-o-n-g time before that can be done as everything that needs to go onto the deck, first needs to be installed. The Tung that I use, does not tolerate any form of glue - it simply shrugs it off like water off a duck's back.

And now I will share with you the nice little predicament that I got myself into. Let's first look at the pictures of @Ab Hoving Ab's and Constant Willems's builds.

Barents-04 (2) - 副本.jpg
Crucial to this part of the build is the height of the center canopy (Blue), the captain cabin's front wall which extends above that (Yellow), the upper deck (GREEN) which angle follows that of the wales and ends in a sharp triangular point (Red) at the back.

CW9.png
The exact same layout on Constant Willem's build viewed from above.

BUT ... this is how the kit's stern configuration looks like:

微信图片_20220919225031.jpg
The center canopy I have drawn in white and immediately behind it is the front wall of the captain's cabin with the extension built in. The upper deck though, which is now just loosely placed is the problem. It has to be lowered so that it basically sits on top of or is level with the wales. (See picture below).

微信图片_20220923205227.jpg
But in order to do that AND have the upper deck extend right through to the rear of the ship, means that the portion of the stern which is shown in blue on the above two pictures is in the way and needs to be removed. I really did not fancy cutting that whole part away and then building it up again with no support, but that seems to be the only way.

What do you guys think?
 
Heinrich said:
Hallo Dear Friends

View attachment 330182
The deck planking has been done and given an initial scraping. After making a few tests as to the finish of the deck, I have eliminated a few possibilities. The CLOU - even in diluted form - is not going to work here. It will not make the deck darker, but it gives it the same gold color as the deck fittings - thus no contrast. The Shellac does not work either as it is hardly noticeable. I haven't yet had the opportunity of testing the clear Polyurethane finish, but I have the sneaky suspicion that this deck only wants Tung Oil. In fact, in my heart of hearts that is what I also want to use, but that does mean a l-o-n-g time before that can be done as everything that needs to go onto the deck, first needs to be installed. The Tung that I use, does not tolerate any form of glue - it simply shrugs it off like water off a duck's back.

And now I will share with you the nice little predicament that I got myself into. Let's first look at the pictures of @Ab Hoving Ab's and Constant Willems's builds.

View attachment 330184
Crucial to this part of the build is the height of the center canopy (Blue), the captain cabin's front wall which extends above that (Yellow), the upper deck (GREEN) which angle follows that of the wales and ends in a sharp triangular point (Red) at the back.

View attachment 330185
The exact same layout on Constant Willem's build viewed from above.

BUT ... this is how the kit's stern configuration looks like:

View attachment 330186
The center canopy I have drawn in white and immediately behind it is the front wall of the captain's cabin with the extension built in. The upper deck though, which is now just loosely placed is the problem. It has to be lowered so that it basically sits on top of or is level with the wales. (See picture below).

View attachment 330188
But in order to do that AND have the upper deck extend right through to the rear of the ship, means that the portion of the stern which is shown in blue on the above two pictures is in the way and needs to be removed. I really did not fancy cutting that whole part away and then building it up again with no support, but that seems to be the only way.

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Hi Heinrich, without drawing I will not pronounce myself, I notice that there is too much space between the deck boards (I hope it is the photo).
 
Heinrich, my friend, that is quite a dractic step that you want to do, and the result will never be wat you are trying to achieve, because of the shape of the stern.
Is'nt it possible to think this over once more, and accept the shape of the stern??
Because if you want to make the same stern as Ab Hoving, and Constant Willems, you have to break down half your ship of Willem Barentsz in order to change the stern's shape.
In other words, if you only bring down that little deck, it is still not what you wanted, but to get wat you want, you are facing a complete rebuild
I would take this for granted if i where you.

I wish you a lot of wisdom in this my friend, you will need it
 
Pathfinder65 said:
Wow, what happens to the installed planking if you remove that portion of the stern? Seems like a drastic step!
Click to expand...
Jan it is only the portion indicated in red, that I am thinking of cutting away.

微信图片_20220923230339.jpg
微信图片_20220923230347.jpg
It is only the stern planking that will be the lost. The challenge though is going to build up that portion again.
 
Frank48 said:
Hi Heinrich, without drawing I will not pronounce myself, I notice that there is too much space between the deck boards (I hope it is the photo).
Click to expand...
Hello Frank

Are you referring to the space indicated by the blue arrow?

微信图片_20220923230339.jpg
 
pingu57 said:
Heinrich, my friend, that is quite a dractic step that you want to do, and the result will never be wat you are trying to achieve, because of the shape of the stern.
Is'nt it possible to think this over once more, and accept the shape of the stern??
Because if you want to make the same stern as Ab Hoving, and Constant Willems, you have to break down half your ship of Willem Barentsz in order to change the stern's shape.
In other words, if you only bring down that little deck, it is still not what you wanted, but to get wat you want, you are facing a complete rebuild
I would take this for granted if i where you.

I wish you a lot of wisdom in this my friend, you will need it
Click to expand...
Dear Peter. I will have to accept the fact that I am not going to get the stern to end in a sharp triangle like Ab and Constant achieved. However, the problem is that if I don't get the upper deck to lie flat, I cannot build the ship with the two-level layout (which is the correct shape) either. So, if I keep the stern the way it is, I will end up with a ship that looks exactly like WB#1.
 
Yes, i understand now that your stern is going to be accepted, in that case you have no choice then to rebuild your stern deck.

Good luck with it my friend, you have a job to do.:eek::eek:
 
@pingu57 This picture of the replica shows a flat stern without the triangular configuration.

Mees Ippel 11.jpg
Judging by all the inaccuracies of the replica, this is probably incorrect too - which brings me to a hell of a choice. Do I compromise or stay true to my goal of attempting to build a historically accurate WB?
 
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