HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

AllanKP69 said:
I think it looks pretty good Ted. :)
The capstan also looks well done. I wish they would not use plywood for things like the whelps on the capstan though. :(
Allan
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I agree, I think they want to take advantage of the space on the sheet in between the larger parts. I any case it's a conscious decision to place economy over quality. However, these decisions have to be made to generate a profit at a certain price point.
 
I went back and added some bottom rail to the doors of the cabin. It looks more like a real door.
Finished the capstain.
I've been trying to use Humbrol cleas satin varnish but have been getting blushing when it dries. I remember having this problem in my youth on my models airplanes. That was in Texas with high humidity. I now live in the San Fernando valley of the Los Angeles basin. It's a desert! I'm a little confused on preventing the blushing.IMG20250522070549.jpgIMG20250522070529.jpg
 
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AllanKP69 said:
I think it looks pretty good Ted. :)
The capstan also looks well done. I wish they would not use plywood for things like the whelps on the capstan though. :(
Allan
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I agree, in fact, I wish kit manufacturers didn't use plywood at all! I was a little excited when A.L. made their announcement of the Anatomy version of the Victory, but when I saw how many raw plywood edges were exposed on the cut-away side, I just said, "Nope". Even if you paint the edges, the pattern shows through unless you do a LOT of filling and sanding, often times much more effort than just cutting a new piece from a piece of solid sheet.
 
RussF said:
I agree, in fact, I wish kit manufacturers didn't use plywood at all! I was a little excited when A.L. made their announcement of the Anatomy version of the Victory, but when I saw how many raw plywood edges were exposed on the cut-away side, I just said, "Nope". Even if you paint the edges, the pattern shows through unless you do a LOT of filling and sanding, often times much more effort than just cutting a new piece from a piece of solid sheet.
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I haven't to looked at it that closely but would be sorely disappointed to send that amount of money on a kit and get plywood. The only rationale that come to mind is it might prevent warping on a thin wide part but I would rather take the chance on the warping
 
I started working on the anchors. The white metal would not work with my Birchwood Brass Black so I painted them with black acrylic that needs a flat finish coat.
The plans call for the metal bands on the stock to be made out of black paper.
I have in mind ind to do them in brass.
I'm trying decide if I should order the 0.025 or the 0.064 in thickness. I just have the isometric drawing for reference.IMG20250522170342.jpgaIMG20250522172129.jpg

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Ted Robinson said:
I have in mind ind to do them in brass.
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Based on how the hawser is secured with only seizings in the drawing above, I would not use their information as a reference. There were two or sometimes three sets of bands on each side of the stock. The only example I could find is a 39 CWT anchor in Lavery's Arming and Fitting English Ships of War but it might be useful as a guide. All the bands on that anchor stock were 2.5" wide by 5/8" thick. (1mm X0.24mm at a scale of 1:64) They may have been smaller for smaller anchors. I would go with copper instead of brass if you want to use metal as it easier to work and easier to blacken.

Regarding how the anchor was secured with the hawser, the drawing below shows that it is clinched to the ring, not seized. (From James Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 129.) Keep in mind that the hawser had to be untied once the anchor was secured so seizings would have to be cut and redone every time the anchor was used. The hawser clinched directly to the ring changed to the use of shackles in 1850.

For anchor dimensions there is a detailed chart on page 81 of Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/ The 39 CWT anchor was a typical size listed for a 36 in Steel's chart.

Allan

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I'm thinking of stripping the black paint from the anchors and painting them steel color followed by dry brushing black.
I really don't know what to do but it looks amateurish now.
 
Ted Robinson said:
Is the current finish appropriate?
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The finish of an anchor on a period ship, especially from the Age of Sail, was both functional and, at times, subtly aesthetic. Anchors were forged from wrought iron. Unpainted anchors would appear dark gray to black, with a slightly rough, hammered texture due to the forging process. Over time, they would naturally develop a protective oxide layer (black rust) that helped prevent deeper corrosion. This gave them a matte, almost soot-black appearance.
For my anchors, if they are originally made from brass, I use a BrassBlak to blacken and dry brush with graphite powder. For wood and 3D printed anchors, a mix of matte black with subtle dry brushing in gunmetal or iron gray gives a realistic iron look. A bit of brown or red ochre can hint at slight rusting, especially near seams or joints.

I think yours looks OK, but it is hard to verify colors as each monitor is calibrated differently.
 
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