HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

[AllanKP69]

this illustration clearly shows how two sloops were installed on the deck. This is not something you see often.

Thank you very much for sharing your research with us. I agree that it is highly unusual to see ship's boats stacked, especially with the upper boat resting on the thwarts of the lower one. Do you know the name of the artist and date of the painting?

Allan

 

[serikoff]

Thank you very much for sharing your research with us. I agree that it is highly unusual to see ship's boats stacked, especially with the upper boat resting on the thwarts of the lower one. Do you know the name of the artist and date of the painting?

Allan

Dawn Suspect :: Montague Dawson :: Vallejo Gallery

Montague Dawson depicts the renowned 18th century Revenue Cutter H.M.S. KITE giving chase to the ship of notorious smuggler David "Smoker" Browning. The KITE, named for the bird of prey, would swoop down upon Browning's ship, finally ensnaring the Kingpin of the North Sea after years of his...

www.vallejogallery.com

It was the same on Alert. There were special supports on the deck for the lower one, and another support was installed on top of the lower boat, onto which the upper boat was installed.
Unfortunately, these supports are not in the drawings, but I have an idea of what they should look like, I will base it on similar ships.

 

[serikoff]

In short, a false alarm!
1. Color... I looked at the models that I really like and 9 out of 10 are dark bitumen "museum" examples. And today I accidentally saw Alert from afar and realized - this is "it"! The deck will be a little lighter and thus will differ from the lower one (which will visually separate them), so I calmed down.
2. Smell and drying time of the oil. After a week it already stinks less and judging by the samples that are a month old - the smell will go away (at least by 90%). And the fact that tung oil dries for a long time, yes ... but I already knew that.
3. Stains... It was still necessary to dilute not 2:1 but 1:1 or even 1:2 with solvent. And very carefully wipe off the excess. But my manipulations with a hair dryer reduced the shine of the stains and their size. One good thing is that they are now difficult to see, and it will be even more difficult when the upper deck covers it all.
4. Take it out! Samples do not always give an accurate result, but this does not mean that they are not boring to do, but rather, on the contrary, confirms the importance of samples. I still need to test all oil options with bitumen and maybe I will give Danish oil a chance. Today I did tests with it ... and not everything is so bad. There are some moments, but everything needs to be checked with bitumen, without it there is no point in making a decision on oil. And while the first hull is drying, I am making the second, maybe in a couple of days there will be something to show ...

From time to time I look at similar models and this really motivates me to continue ...

 

[Jimsky]

From time to time I look at similar models and this really motivates me to continue ...

Are those images from models by Dima Shevelev?

 

[GrantTyler]

In short, a false alarm!
1. Color... I looked at the models that I really like and 9 out of 10 are dark bitumen "museum" examples. And today I accidentally saw Alert from afar and realized - this is "it"! The deck will be a little lighter and thus will differ from the lower one (which will visually separate them), so I calmed down.
2. Smell and drying time of the oil. After a week it already stinks less and judging by the samples that are a month old - the smell will go away (at least by 90%). And the fact that tung oil dries for a long time, yes ... but I already knew that.
3. Stains... It was still necessary to dilute not 2:1 but 1:1 or even 1:2 with solvent. And very carefully wipe off the excess. But my manipulations with a hair dryer reduced the shine of the stains and their size. One good thing is that they are now difficult to see, and it will be even more difficult when the upper deck covers it all.
4. Take it out! Samples do not always give an accurate result, but this does not mean that they are not boring to do, but rather, on the contrary, confirms the importance of samples. I still need to test all oil options with bitumen and maybe I will give Danish oil a chance. Today I did tests with it ... and not everything is so bad. There are some moments, but everything needs to be checked with bitumen, without it there is no point in making a decision on oil. And while the first hull is drying, I am making the second, maybe in a couple of days there will be something to show ...

From time to time I look at similar models and this really motivates me to continue ...

View attachment 530076

Good morning Sergey. I did a little catch up with your log last night and this morning. Your log is the most comprehensive I have ever read and I appreciate it immensely. Thank you I learn so much reading through your log. I am really happy to

 

[GrantTyler]

Read this mornings “false alarm”. Your Alert is magnificent. Cheers Grant (a big fan of your work)

 

[serikoff]

Are those images from models by Dima Shevelev?

Yes, absolutely right. 3/4 is a 74-gun ship and Belle Polle, and also Aurora Zagorulkina. I like their style and most importantly - the rigging! This is the style I will do it in on Alert.

Good morning Sergey. I did a little catch up with your log last night and this morning. Your log is the most comprehensive I have ever read and I appreciate it immensely. Thank you I learn so much reading through your log. I am really happy to

Read this mornings “false alarm”. Your Alert is magnificent. Cheers Grant (a big fan of your work)

Thank you Grant for your kind words, they motivate me to continue to add more detail to this log. I'm glad you like it. If all goes well, this log will contain two stories about assembling the kit and a full-fledged second ship based on the finished kit, but separately. I really hope that everything will work out.

 

[serikoff]

Small update with inserts.
Today he finished the opposite side and made the slopes of the cannon ports in front.



Unlike the railings and ports in the middle section, which are made of black hornbeam, in front these elements will be made of pear. The pear is not ordinary, but its red part, which is usually located in the core of the tree. I really like this color. And since the ports were painted red on a real ship, a pear with a red tint will be just the theme.



Then I made an element for the anchor rope. It goes through these 2 shangouts, But since these 2 frames are glued together with two parts - I made them whole for convenience, and then I will apply the joints with the blade, and it will seem that there is not one fragment but 4.





After grinding, it all looks like this...





There will still be a black insert in the front in the area of the rope hole, but I will do it later.

And so, a couple more inserts at the back and you can prepare the ship for applying the waterline. This stage is very important and a lot of preparatory points need to be done...

In the meantime, this fragment is already ready for cladding. The only thing is to try not to notice everything that is not made of wood on the case. I understand that it is a little dirty and a lot of unnecessary things, but as a result, everything that does not look very good will either be cleaned or completely blocked by a tree. Therefore, rough backstage - do not take into account in future beauty yet.

 

[serikoff]

I continue to fight the first hull. And sort of, I'm winning... but that's not accurate

Almost two weeks have passed since the application of Tung oil (2:1 with solvent). Withdrawal! Dilute at least 1:1 and be SURE to eliminate any excess after 20 minutes. Otherwise, we are waiting for you to take into account. So learn from other people's mistakes.

Dust! Here is another blow in my direction. I did a general cleaning, the model was protected from dust, but (naturally) did not cover it, because how it would dry then. And now, after a gift of weeks, I found dust... and not just the one that is easy to blow off with a stream of air, but the one that stuck to the oil and even between the frames... Trouble. I've been messing with the hull for hours today and I thought it was all gone, but (spoiler) it wasn't!

In short, I alternated between two procedures. The first is wiping with a lint-free napkin wetted in a solvent for oil paints. (and it's a very tedious, boring and monotonous job)...



And the second procedure is to eliminate dust using a vacuum cleaner nozzle.



The result was almost invisible after the first few passes, but I did not stop and after at least 7-8 runs I saw a clean hull, without dust sticking, almost without spots of glossy films and other things. And I was unrealistically glad.

I will also let him dry to the maximum (while there is something to do) and I hope that he will finally dry out (since now, there is still the impression that the polymerization is not completed). And I hope that the dust that will already appear in the process and then after grinding the upper deck will no longer stick to the surface, but will be easily eliminated by the nozzle from the vacuum cleaner. Anyway, I hope so.

Well, so, as most likely nothing will change in appearance, I will show you how the hull looks now. And in appearance, he is like after bitumen, exactly as I wanted at the beginning. It is a pity that some fragments are a little lighter, but already as it is (it was necessary to replace them all at first) but maybe there is something in this, what do you say?











































P.S. I forgot to clarify a very important detail... Maybe the oil dried poorly because we had bad weather, rain, dampness and not very warm. And now on the balcony +45 is the minimum, so in such conditions, I think that the oil will dry much better.

 

[RussF]

What a stunning model! All the frame edges are crisp and sharp. Every joint is tight. There are no stray file or sandpaper scratches. And the oil really shows it all off. Just beautiful! So, I don't any more grumbling about how bad you think it looks.

 

[serikoff]

What a stunning model! All the frame edges are crisp and sharp. Every joint is tight. There are no stray file or sandpaper scratches. And the oil really shows it all off. Just beautiful! So, I don't any more grumbling about how bad you think it looks.

Thank you very much, I am very glad to hear it. At the same time, I seriously thought several times that I had ruined everything. I hope that everything will be fine in the future.

 

[serikoff]

Today, again, a little thoughts in the ear and some beautiful photos.

Recently revised all its links of useful sites about ships... and noticed one such bad feature, almost 3/4 of the sites simply do not exist anymore. And I kept them somewhere in 2009-2012. That is, if I had not saved myself all those photos that I liked the models, then I would not have been able to look at them again.

One drawback is that at that time I did not perceive anything less for a frigate or battleship for something worthwhile. And I now understand how wrong I was, but it's too late... how much I could save a good photo with small ships, and I regret it.

Surprisingly, with a cursory search, there are not many good models of boats on the Internet. (I do not want to offend anyone, but I do not take into account the simple models of novice masters, I am about those by which you learn, draw inspiration and knowledge... such as museum specimens or models that are museum-style by professionals).

I tried looking for something inspiring and here's what I found. I add all the links to those who will be interested, for some only from the original source you can see in good quality.

First, a couple of photos from different (unknown) sources. And in the end - it will be the most interesting!









On this site, I found these museum specimens. And here, if you want to see in good quality, then follow the link.
And for starters - Alert and his coloring.





And another model of the boat, which I liked. (again, at the link above - you can see in good quality.





And on this site it is possible to download in normal quality. Here is a link to a list of all the models, but below I will share only those closer to the boats, although many deserve to see.


























Well, in the end, the cutter Hawke, which is practically the same as the Alert. (I even used it in the first after, as an illustration of what I want to do, but so photo in a different color profile. But the model is very beautiful!











It is a pity, of course, that the quality of the photo is not enough to enjoy the models in full, but which ones are. I have always tried to photograph at exhibitions as clearly and with detail as possible, but it is a pity that now I can visit museums around the world to see all this beauty... but there may be more to come.

If you have links to sites where there is a similar style and techniques of the model - write me a personal message, I will be grateful.

 

[GIG1810]

Hello Sergey,

As you know, I am a big fan of your modelling skills. I really have to say that you are a professional. It's not only your dedication to writing, but also your accurate research on the models. I agree with Grant that you write one of the best build logs I have ever read. A big chapeau for that!

If I were to criticise, it would only be............ ... Oops, I can't find anything to criticise!
Your work is fantastic. But I do have one question: if you put your model on the balcony at +45 degrees, aren't you worried that the wood will dry too quickly and become brittle? Unfortunately, this happened to me once because I let a hunting stick (walking stick) dry too quickly and then it really burst open. The walking stick was therefore no longer usable.

Apart from that, I would say that what you are doing is simply marvellous.

Best regards

Günther

 

[serikoff]

Hello Sergey,

As you know, I am a big fan of your modelling skills. I really have to say that you are a professional. It's not only your dedication to writing, but also your accurate research on the models. I agree with Grant that you write one of the best build logs I have ever read. A big chapeau for that!

If I were to criticise, it would only be............ ... Oops, I can't find anything to criticise!
Your work is fantastic. But I do have one question: if you put your model on the balcony at +45 degrees, aren't you worried that the wood will dry too quickly and become brittle? Unfortunately, this happened to me once because I let a hunting stick (walking stick) dry too quickly and then it really burst open. The walking stick was therefore no longer usable.

Apart from that, I would say that what you are doing is simply marvellous.

Best regards

Günther

Thank you for your kind words, it is very nice. I will answer your question. Yes, wood can crack from fast drying, but this is provided that it was not dry. That is, you took a cut tree and immediately gave it a high temperature, and then the following process occurs: moisture evaporates through the end of the cut faster than in other places and stress zones appear, which is why cracks appear. To avoid this, you need to dry slowly and at low temperatures. And what is dangerous is that the tree may seem dry, but in fact it is not. Stable wood should have a humidity of about 10%. In my case, the wood was absolutely dry and what is important is that it was cut into small fragments, while the fibers are directed in different directions (due to the shape) and what is probably most important is that the wood dried not from water, but from oil. And this is a little different. Oil dries much more slowly, and at the same time polymerizes, which, on the contrary, seals the wood, preventing it from cracking either now or in the future. But the question is interesting, I'll keep you updated.

I think you should have covered the cane with some kind of protective coating. Because if the wood drops its moisture percentage to a minimum, the wood becomes more brittle. You need to seal these 10-15% moisture with varnish or oil or primer with paint.

 

[GIG1810]

Hello Sergey,

You were right. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of drying the wood at a temperature of +20 degrees because I had made a mistake in my thinking.

Many thanks for the quick reply.

Best regards
Günther

 

[serikoff]

I have a couple more inserts left to stick in the aft.



Everything is simple here: I cut off, prepared a detail according to the parameters from the first black hornbeam case, and pasted gel on the CA...



... and polished along the contours of the case. I did it as always with a margin, but only a small part of them will be visualized.



And now, in order to start sheathing the stern (or rather the space under it), I need to adapt the steering gear and make a few more inserts.



In order to then correctly arrange the hole for the steering wheel, and everything else, I began to make the steering wheel itself. As always extracted details...



... sanded them and glued them together.



I will not make the second steering wheel on the second body prefabricated, but I will make an imitation with a blade. Less hassle and the result will be the same, but much faster.



The only thing is that from below I will make this small part on the second steering wheel, since there are fibers across.



Well, I will not make slots for loops, but I will make them overhead (as they should be).

But when I applied the steering gear to the body (simulating the distance between the parts with a tape) I saw what I noticed from other craftsmen who built this model.

Don't you notice what's wrong?





And the fact that the gap between the parts is directly unrealistic in size. In the free position, it reached 2-3 mm!!! But even there is a strong combination of them, it was still 1.8 mm.



This provided that the loops had to be either shortened or the grooves widened. But I categorically did not want to leave this, despite the fact that the drawings (color illustration above) clearly show that the distance between the steering wheel and the body was negligible.

I pushed the ends of the loops and pushed them deeper, but after that the distance was still 1mm.



And the loops could no longer fit in the grooves, but lay on top. How I decided everything:



I deepened the grooves in the tree and cut off the excess from the loops, which did not allow them to move deeper.



He also cut off the ends of the loops, since they could already go beyond the limits of the parts. In addition, the anatomy indicates a shape that is not round but slightly cut.



After these manipulations, the distance was reduced to 0.4 mm and it suited me.





Well, finally - a comparison between the current, how it was and how it became:



Again, I just tried on the loops, since it is not finished either. The loops will still be processed, polished and naturally blackened. My main task was to adapt it all to the hull and continue to work with the second hull.

By the way, I ordered a measuring altimeter for accurate positioning and further work with the skin of the second case. An interesting tool, one might say antiques.

 

[RussF]

Does the rudder swing without interference when it is that close, or will you have to bevel both sides of the leading edge?

 

[serikoff]

Does the rudder swing without interference when it is that close, or will you have to bevel both sides of the leading edge?

Yes, of course, the steering wheel will have a rounding on the leading edge. I will also make a duplicate for the second hull, so I did not profile the steering wheel to accurately transfer the dimensions. Later, work on the steering wheel will continue.

 

[AllanKP69]

Many kit companies would benefit from a thorough study of your build log photos when designing their instruction manuals.
Allan

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Sergey,

once again really well explained and also implemented. I can understand you. I wouldn't have left the gap like that either. It would always have bothered me. Well done.

Best regards

Günther