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HMS ENTERPRISE by Keith 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D.

AllanKP69 said:
As

This framing is more like on Admiralty models than the actual ships so go with whatever works best. Even on the actual ships there were spacers at times, and the size of the spacers varied all over the place even on the same ship as the frames were set up to form the gun ports. Below example is Vengeance 1774. You can see the pieces between frames varies a lot as the siding of the frames varies from the floors to the top timbers. These spacers are only on the station lines but I have no idea why.

Allan
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That is brilliant - Thanks
Keef said:
Coming along with the construction of the hawse pieces. x8A and B have been faired. x8B is in its position on the keel, while x8A is placed in the jig for the hawse pieces as all the frames will attach to it. The first piece, F1 is sanded to shape, inside and out. This is the piece that attaches vertically to the hull and is the longest of the 7 frames making up the hawse pieces. It is dry fitted to the cant frame x8A and fits very nicely. F2 is also sanded to shape and takes up its position in the jig next to F1. I must be doing something right as it fits on x8A and the shape forming is instantly recognizable. All good so far

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On the diagram
Keef said:
Coming along with the construction of the hawse pieces. x8A and B have been faired. x8B is in its position on the keel, while x8A is placed in the jig for the hawse pieces as all the frames will attach to it. The first piece, F1 is sanded to shape, inside and out. This is the piece that attaches vertically to the hull and is the longest of the 7 frames making up the hawse pieces. It is dry fitted to the cant frame x8A and fits very nicely. F2 is also sanded to shape and takes up its position in the jig next to F1. I must be doing something right as it fits on x8A and the shape forming is instantly recognizable. All good so far

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On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8B !
 
TRS7139 said:
That is a fine choice.Myself, I’ve used the 2”drum with 180,
Don’t touch frames until paired and I then hold the paired frames frreehand off the table to bevel inside and out. Using the lines and char allows you to keep things nice and even. 5 minutes to bevel a full frame,
Tip: as you progress, take the bevels right down to the lines, without knowing exactly what my margin for error might be I left several just off the line but that resulted in more sanding……those lines are accurate.
My images show this result so you be the judge on process.
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I used a modelling drum sanded to remove the worse of the Char and Stuff that needed sanding down then Finished of with a hand held sander . Seems OK But before i glue it all in will finly sand it to gicve a clean fiish
 
Keef said:
Not thought that far ahead yet but more than likely
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One of the reasons I asked was about your small spacers.
If you review Allan’s image about the boxing, you can see the true size of spacing between bollards, giving more or less solid wood to go through for hawse holes.
Could be important to prevent separation of the bollards.
I have avoided the boxing but spaced similar to Arban.

Tim
 
richardjjs said:
That is brilliant - Thanks

On the diagram

On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8A !
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Yes Ive just checked mine - need break for FRAMES
LOts of help Keef Corsair and Arban
JUst cleaning and checking But its not easy without your guys help THANKS

Also found 2 "Missing" pieces they where in wrong box
 
richardjjs said:
That is brilliant - Thanks

On the diagram

On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8B !
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No. x8A is correct. x8B is on the stern side as it is with all the frames. y8 is for the stern can't frames
 
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All the hull frames are complete and permanently fixed onto the keel, making a complete hull, except for the hawse piece assemblies, port and stbd., which are still awaiting my small repair work-in-progress. In the meantime, I have moved on to the transom. The 5 pieces are shown after sanding to shape. They attach to frame y8B and the stern post. A bit of fine tuning is involved in getting them to fit and they are very awkward to get at whilst in the jig but worked out OK in the end. btw. Almost forgot. Be aware, to achieve the angle for the cant frame y8, you must ignore the sanding line lasered onto the floor timber of y8A. This looks to be a manufacturing error

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Keef said:
All the hull frames are complete and permanently fixed onto the keel, making a complete hull, except for the hawse piece assemblies, port and stbd., which are still awaiting my small repair work-in-progress. In the meantime, I have moved on to the transom. The 5 pieces are shown after sanding to shape. They attach to frame y8B and the stern post. A bit of fine tuning is involved in getting them to fit and they are very awkward to get at whilst in the jig but worked out OK in the end. btw. Almost forgot. Be aware, to achieve the angle for the cant frame y8, you must ignore the sanding line lasered onto the floor timber of y8A. This looks to be a manufacturing error

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Looking good Keith- nice one
 
Keef said:
All the hull frames are complete and permanently fixed onto the keel, making a complete hull, except for the hawse piece assemblies, port and stbd., which are still awaiting my small repair work-in-progress. In the meantime, I have moved on to the transom. The 5 pieces are shown after sanding to shape. They attach to frame y8B and the stern post. A bit of fine tuning is involved in getting them to fit and they are very awkward to get at whilst in the jig but worked out OK in the end. btw. Almost forgot. Be aware, to achieve the angle for the cant frame y8, you must ignore the sanding line lasered onto the floor timber of y8A. This looks to be a manufacturing error

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It’s always a complex part of the hull, Keith. It’s looking very nice.
Gr. Peter
 
Keith,
Looks like they turned out nice.
When I did mine, for others reference, I did them absent the last couple cant frames to get the ends to butt up against frame as evenly as I could………a bit less fidgety.

Tim
 
Keef said:
Thanks very much Jeff. I am indeed counting this as a mile stone in the construction of this build. Everything fits so nicely in a tribute to the design and manufacture of this kit. Excellent job Modelship Dockyard!! The next step is the construction of the cant frames x1 to 8 (bow) and y1 to 8 (stern). Although first I think I shall glue all the these frames to the keel. A little daunting as this would then be permanent, but it has to be done at some point. Redface

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just rechecking what you have done so far
Brilliant not only in your work but helping me
I did put temp separators in between the frames but like the idea of them all being at the same level and sticking out
Did you find any problems after you had glued these frames in ?
Again thanks
 
Keef said:
Now all the midship frames are complete (1 to 37), these are the frames attached to the keel at 90 degrees, the next thing is to concentrate on the cant frames (x1 to x8 at the bow and y1 to y8 at the stern). They are set at an angle to the keel hence the name cant frames and require an entirely different approach. Unlike the 'straight' frames which are one piece made up of an A and B side, these are 2 separate units of A and B glued either side of the bow or stern deadwood. Also, to make things even more complicated, every other (the even numbered units) are not glued together at the floor timbers, but the A and B sides are to be treated as separate, i.e. not glued together. Each set of frames sit in the support notches either side of the deadwood which were made when the keel was first constructed. Attention must be taken to get the angle correct where the frames join the keel. This angle gets steeper the closer to the bow (or stern). So far all frames are dry fitted. A little fine tuning will be necessary when it comes to gluing everything permanently into place.

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A couple of questions about this so far
A) It looks like you have a slight gap between the front of the Bow and gthe Frame (First PIcture) I have similar although the Keel is Exactly placed on the Plan

B) You see to have placed the ODD numbered Cant X frames in first and the na added the Rear EVEN frames ois this what you recommend
AGAIN THANKS

Keffs Gap!.png
 
Keef said:
Have now completed the fore cant frames (x1 to x7). There is actually an x8 but I am leaving that for the time being as x8A is used to make up the hawse pieces and is not fitted into the hull until that part is complete. Everything is still only dry fit and some work is required on the cant frame bases where they join the hull as some of the angles are not quite right. Not too bad but could be better. So, I think next I shall permanently fix the frames 1 to 37 to the hull, the concentrate on the stern cants

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Getting Close to this stage This is incredible work from you !!
 
richardjjs said:
just rechecking what you have done so far
Brilliant not only in your work but helping me
I did put temp separators in between the frames but like the idea of them all being at the same level and sticking out
Did you find any problems after you had glued these frames in ?
Again thanks
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Thanks Richard. Good I can be of some help. No problems with the frames at all. They all fit exactly as they should. When you get to the cant frames take great care to get the angles right where they meet the deadwood
 
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