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HMS ENTERPRISE by Keith 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D.

AllanKP69 said:
As

This framing is more like on Admiralty models than the actual ships so go with whatever works best. Even on the actual ships there were spacers at times, and the size of the spacers varied all over the place even on the same ship as the frames were set up to form the gun ports. Below example is Vengeance 1774. You can see the pieces between frames varies a lot as the siding of the frames varies from the floors to the top timbers. These spacers are only on the station lines but I have no idea why.

Allan
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That is brilliant - Thanks
Keef said:
Coming along with the construction of the hawse pieces. x8A and B have been faired. x8B is in its position on the keel, while x8A is placed in the jig for the hawse pieces as all the frames will attach to it. The first piece, F1 is sanded to shape, inside and out. This is the piece that attaches vertically to the hull and is the longest of the 7 frames making up the hawse pieces. It is dry fitted to the cant frame x8A and fits very nicely. F2 is also sanded to shape and takes up its position in the jig next to F1. I must be doing something right as it fits on x8A and the shape forming is instantly recognizable. All good so far

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On the diagram
Keef said:
Coming along with the construction of the hawse pieces. x8A and B have been faired. x8B is in its position on the keel, while x8A is placed in the jig for the hawse pieces as all the frames will attach to it. The first piece, F1 is sanded to shape, inside and out. This is the piece that attaches vertically to the hull and is the longest of the 7 frames making up the hawse pieces. It is dry fitted to the cant frame x8A and fits very nicely. F2 is also sanded to shape and takes up its position in the jig next to F1. I must be doing something right as it fits on x8A and the shape forming is instantly recognizable. All good so far

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On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8B !
 
TRS7139 said:
That is a fine choice.Myself, I’ve used the 2”drum with 180,
Don’t touch frames until paired and I then hold the paired frames frreehand off the table to bevel inside and out. Using the lines and char allows you to keep things nice and even. 5 minutes to bevel a full frame,
Tip: as you progress, take the bevels right down to the lines, without knowing exactly what my margin for error might be I left several just off the line but that resulted in more sanding……those lines are accurate.
My images show this result so you be the judge on process.
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I used a modelling drum sanded to remove the worse of the Char and Stuff that needed sanding down then Finished of with a hand held sander . Seems OK But before i glue it all in will finly sand it to gicve a clean fiish
 
Keef said:
Not thought that far ahead yet but more than likely
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One of the reasons I asked was about your small spacers.
If you review Allan’s image about the boxing, you can see the true size of spacing between bollards, giving more or less solid wood to go through for hawse holes.
Could be important to prevent separation of the bollards.
I have avoided the boxing but spaced similar to Arban.

Tim
 
richardjjs said:
That is brilliant - Thanks

On the diagram

On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8A !
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Yes Ive just checked mine - need break for FRAMES
LOts of help Keef Corsair and Arban
JUst cleaning and checking But its not easy without your guys help THANKS

Also found 2 "Missing" pieces they where in wrong box
 
richardjjs said:
That is brilliant - Thanks

On the diagram

On the diagram HAWSE PIECES it says "Attaching to surface Y8" I presume it means X8B !
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No. x8A is correct. x8B is on the stern side as it is with all the frames. y8 is for the stern can't frames
 
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