HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

[kuba91nt]

I'm not sure I understood the question correctly, but I'll say this: any gap in wood or between two parts will be very visible after applying oil. CA glue works similarly. It also greatly highlights cracks by filling them. To prevent it from shining, it needs to be sanded or scraped off, but this will still leave a black line, albeit a matte one. Filling gaps... depends on the purpose. If I want to highlight something with a dark line, I intentionally create such a gap and the glue highlights it, but more often than not, the gap itself under the oil creates the same effect of a dark line. I hope I answered the question, or could you clarify what you mean?

Not all.
I've seen videos where Olha for example, drills holes for dowels, nails, but instead of this nails, she put CA glue into this holes and fills them with CA glue, and next sanded.
Similarly, if there's a large gap in wood, some modelers fills it with glue instead of using putty.
CA fills gaps like putty.

 

[serikoff]

To be honest, these three ship models aren't the only ones I have.

Back in 2002, I started building my first ship, the brig Mercury. I wrote about it earlier in my Victory thread.
It's scary to think, but more than 22 years have passed...

But the main thing is that this photo of me with the ship is the only one I have together. I need to fix that somehow.

Naturally, the materials balsa and linden do not correspond to the result one should strive for, therefore this model will remain only in my memory as what it all began with.

 

[serikoff]

Since I'm currently actively working on the test pieces with imitation bolts and nails (and this takes time), I can't continue with the sheathing yet, so I've returned to the first hull (skeleton) and am continuing to work on the Upper Deck.



On the right is the finished deck section, on the left are the new parts. And the carlings (parts EL09 and EL06) with missing grooves for the small transverse parts (ledge).



I had to make these grooves as shown in the photo above. Then I glued the third beam.



Let me remind you that the deck will be filmed until the very last moment (at least that's what I plan to do, and then we'll see how it turns out).



I've written before about how I build a deck, but here's a quick step-by-step description:



We have a fore-and-aft section and, say, any beam, and we need to glue four carlings to it.

1. First, I place all four carlings side by side, making sure all the ledge grooves align (otherwise, they will be glued crookedly).

2. I place knees on the sides so that their ledge grooves also align with the carlings.

3. I calibrate one end of all the pieces so that they fit neatly and evenly against the desired beam.

4. I insert the deck section into the hull and place the next beam in its place. I align the carlings with the grooves of the existing beam and determine how much it needs to be shortened relative to the new beam.

5. I calibrate the carlings' length on a grinder and then join everything together without glue and place it in the hull. If everything fits, I glue them together using clamps.

6. Then I remove the deck fragment and...



7. ... I glue the knees, the front part with PVA glue, and the small rear part with CA gel. Before that, I sand the parts on all sides and create imitation bolts. By the way, I also sand the carlings on all sides, just like the beams before fitting and gluing them together.

The end result looks like this.



If you're having trouble understanding the process from the text description, let me know, and I'll try to take step-by-step photos. I think it'll be clear to anyone who's building this kit, but I'm not sure.

So far, the deck has been easy to remove and reinstall...



...and most importantly, this deck can easily be installed on a second hull...



...and we're considering duplicating this deck to quickly and easily create a duplicate for future planking.

So, almost 1/3 of the deck is already complete, but there's still a lot of work to do...

 

[Corsair]

Since I'm currently actively working on the test pieces with imitation bolts and nails (and this takes time), I can't continue with the sheathing yet, so I've returned to the first hull (skeleton) and am continuing to work on the Upper Deck.

View attachment 551099

On the right is the finished deck section, on the left are the new parts. And the carlings (parts EL09 and EL06) with missing grooves for the small transverse parts (ledge).

View attachment 551101

I had to make these grooves as shown in the photo above. Then I glued the third beam.

View attachment 551103

Let me remind you that the deck will be filmed until the very last moment (at least that's what I plan to do, and then we'll see how it turns out).

View attachment 551106

I've written before about how I build a deck, but here's a quick step-by-step description:

View attachment 551107

We have a fore-and-aft section and, say, any beam, and we need to glue four carlings to it.

1. First, I place all four carlings side by side, making sure all the ledge grooves align (otherwise, they will be glued crookedly).

2. I place knees on the sides so that their ledge grooves also align with the carlings.

3. I calibrate one end of all the pieces so that they fit neatly and evenly against the desired beam.

4. I insert the deck section into the hull and place the next beam in its place. I align the carlings with the grooves of the existing beam and determine how much it needs to be shortened relative to the new beam.

5. I calibrate the carlings' length on a grinder and then join everything together without glue and place it in the hull. If everything fits, I glue them together using clamps.

6. Then I remove the deck fragment and...

View attachment 551108

7. ... I glue the knees, the front part with PVA glue, and the small rear part with CA gel. Before that, I sand the parts on all sides and create imitation bolts. By the way, I also sand the carlings on all sides, just like the beams before fitting and gluing them together.

The end result looks like this.

View attachment 551109

If you're having trouble understanding the process from the text description, let me know, and I'll try to take step-by-step photos. I think it'll be clear to anyone who's building this kit, but I'm not sure.

So far, the deck has been easy to remove and reinstall...

View attachment 551110

...and most importantly, this deck can easily be installed on a second hull...

View attachment 551111

...and we're considering duplicating this deck to quickly and easily create a duplicate for future planking.

So, almost 1/3 of the deck is already complete, but there's still a lot of work to do...

How do you make such clean and perfect notches in the beams and carlings?

 

[serikoff]

How do you make such clean and perfect notches in the beams and carlings?

I don't want to disappoint you, but these are milled parts from a kit. It's a good kit, but still a kit. Yes, like any part, it needs some fine-tuning, but the milling quality is quite good to begin with, so with some skill, you can make a good model from this setup.
At the beginning of this thread, I did a detailed review of this kit:

https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...s-skeleton-and-fully-rigged.16066/post-419210