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Thank you Roger, Jerome and others who have posted real world experience with similar ships and other advice to help me get this project right, the input is very helpful and definitely appreciated. Hopefully I'll have some time today between other projects to make more progress on the hull, I'll post photos as progress is made.
And Jerome thanks so much for the rigging diagrams! This is my first ship build so I'm not very familiar with the rigging - those drawings will be incredibly helpful!
And Jerome thanks so much for the rigging diagrams! This is my first ship build so I'm not very familiar with the rigging - those drawings will be incredibly helpful!
Fantastic project, photos, and all information from others watching this site.
Jim
Jim
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To add a little to my piping story. As fabricators of the piping our responsibility ended when the piping was delivered to the dock down the street from out shop. But to our surprise, several specialists hired by the shipper arrived to oversee loading and our conference room became their office.
A stowage expert. This guy literally mapped out every piece of piping loaded within the ship’s cargo spaces. This included leaving one hold empty, but piping stowed on deck. I believe that the empty hold was later flooded to get under the Detroit River bridge
Cargo surveyors. These guys inspected the cargo to certify that it was in good condition when shipped.
The manager of the port’s stevedoring company. His guys did the actual loading. I believe that this included operating the vessel’s cargo gear.
A representative of the company insuring the cargo.
There were others that I don’t remember. My point is that shipping this piping was carefully planned by knowledgeable people within the marine shipping industry. I would assume that the same thing happens all of the time at ports around the world.
Roger
A stowage expert. This guy literally mapped out every piece of piping loaded within the ship’s cargo spaces. This included leaving one hold empty, but piping stowed on deck. I believe that the empty hold was later flooded to get under the Detroit River bridge
Cargo surveyors. These guys inspected the cargo to certify that it was in good condition when shipped.
The manager of the port’s stevedoring company. His guys did the actual loading. I believe that this included operating the vessel’s cargo gear.
A representative of the company insuring the cargo.
There were others that I don’t remember. My point is that shipping this piping was carefully planned by knowledgeable people within the marine shipping industry. I would assume that the same thing happens all of the time at ports around the world.
Roger
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Roger,
Thanks again for the info. All this talk of cargo loading is making me think I should build my ship the same way Howard Lloyd did - with an open cargo hold, crates and stevedores inside loading/unloading...
Since I'm an independent product designer and I've done products for more than a half dozen Jeep and offroad trailer companies, maybe my load should be WWII crated Jeeps.
Your work is much cleaner than mine. My bulkheads weren’t numbered so I had to guess where they went. Several crumbled as I cut them, and I had to make new ones from scratch. I love your progress. Hopefully you can see some of my mistakes so you know how to avoid them.
This is great info! I can use it in mine as well.
The basic hull structure is complete. According to the kit instructions, the next step would be to build the lower part of the hull but since I'm doing this as a waterline model, my next step will be to add a 1/4" plywood base. I'll shape it to match the wider profile of the bottom of the hull that resulted from shortening the bulkheads 3/4" at the bottom.
Comparing the hull to the plans to see how tall the finished ship will be with the masts and rigging:
After adding the plywood base I'll perfect the fairing of the hull - the kit parts are fairly accurate but not absolutely perfect so some work to make sure the hull is faired correctly is in order.
Comparing the hull to the plans to see how tall the finished ship will be with the masts and rigging:
After adding the plywood base I'll perfect the fairing of the hull - the kit parts are fairly accurate but not absolutely perfect so some work to make sure the hull is faired correctly is in order.
You’re moving along at a pretty good clip!
I've had some down time over the past few days as I've been waiting for coats of paint to dry renovating our early 1800's home
. Progress might slow a bit now.The next step is to make the plywood base and secure the hull assembly to it. In the photo below the hull is sitting on the plywood blank. Also in the photo I've set the deck pieces in place to check the fit. According to the instructions the next step is to sheath the hull, but I'm thinking it will be best to work on fairing the hull and fitting the deck pieces precisely so the hull sheathing step results in a perfectly faired hull and deck fit. What sequence did you use for the sheathing and deck fitting Vic?
I struggled with it because of the poor quality of the wood. The sheathing varied from 1/16” to paper thin. In one place, the sheathing couldn’t be bent to cover the bottom part. That was ok because I would cut it later to close to the water line. I had a little problem with the plywood base as well. I guess I didn’t outline it as well as I should have, but it shouldn’t matter much since it will be submerged. I did fair the bulkheads front and back. The hardest part was where the sheathing and the strakes meet at the front and back. Neither the strakes nor the sheathing were consistently the same thickness. That necessitated voluminous sanding. In places there are still slight bulges. The fiberglass helped smooth things out some. Also, some of the strakes were unusable. If I had it to do again, I’d think hard about making my own out of better wood. It would be good to make sure that the strakes and sheathing are the same thickness.I've had some down time over the past few days as I've been waiting for coats of paint to dry renovating our early 1800's home
The next step is to make the plywood base and secure the hull assembly to it. In the photo below the hull is sitting on the plywood blank. Also in the photo I've set the deck pieces in place to check the fit. According to the instructions the next step is to sheath the hull, but I'm thinking it will be best to work on fairing the hull and fitting the deck pieces precisely so the hull sheathing step results in a perfectly faired hull and deck fit. What sequence did you use for the sheathing and deck fitting Vic?
View attachment 564230
Thank you, that's very helpful. I'll check the thickness of the sheathing and strakes in my kit and if they're not consistent I'll make a run to the hobby shop for new wood.