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Batavia 1628 (1:72) Kolderstok Build log
- Thread starter Papatotalos
- Start date
- Watchers 25
The weekly update for week 05-2026.
Thanks again this week for all the comments and likes.
I've only been working on the starboard tackles all week.
I'm not going to explain much this time and will let the photos speak for themselves.
It's not all clear, but it's well-intentioned.
Next week we'll continue with the starboard tackles and begin the port tackles.
Have a great build week!
Thanks again this week for all the comments and likes.
I've only been working on the starboard tackles all week.
I'm not going to explain much this time and will let the photos speak for themselves.
It's not all clear, but it's well-intentioned.
Next week we'll continue with the starboard tackles and begin the port tackles.
Have a great build week!
Looking good, Clemens!
Excellent - as always
The weekly update for week 06-2026.
Thanks everyone for the many likes and your comments.
Last week, I continued with the starboard tackles. Preparations were made for the port side.
So, I prepared all the blocks again and secured the ropes to the lower single blocks with a hook.
The starboard tackle on the mizzen mast.
Preparations for port side.
And the first of the five on the port side. At the mizzen mast.
Next week we'll continue with the other four tackles on the port side.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Thanks everyone for the many likes and your comments.
Last week, I continued with the starboard tackles. Preparations were made for the port side.
So, I prepared all the blocks again and secured the ropes to the lower single blocks with a hook.
The starboard tackle on the mizzen mast.
Preparations for port side.
And the first of the five on the port side. At the mizzen mast.
Next week we'll continue with the other four tackles on the port side.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Fiddly work, Clemens. Well done! A lot of patience is needed for this part of the build...
The weekly update for week 07-2026.
Thanks again this week for the many likes and your comment Paul.
Last week, the tackles were hung on the port side.
All the hooks were also blackened. Below is an impression.
Then I started on the mizzen topmast shrouds.
In the photo, I noticed that I had two of the deadeyes backwards. Too bad.
I wouldn't have noticed that with the naked eye at a normal distance when I was attaching the shroud underneath.
Otherwise, I would have definitely reversed it.
Next week I'll continue with mizzen backstays. And some ratlines.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Thanks again this week for the many likes and your comment Paul.
Last week, the tackles were hung on the port side.
All the hooks were also blackened. Below is an impression.
Then I started on the mizzen topmast shrouds.
In the photo, I noticed that I had two of the deadeyes backwards. Too bad.
I wouldn't have noticed that with the naked eye at a normal distance when I was attaching the shroud underneath.
Otherwise, I would have definitely reversed it.
Next week I'll continue with mizzen backstays. And some ratlines.
Have a great build week, everyone.
The weekly update for week 08-2026.
Thank you for your likes this past week.
Regarding the "twisting" of the upper deadeye on both mizzen backstays, that problem has been solved.
After some testing, I discovered that the twisting was occurring in the rope running above the deadeye to the mast.
With the slightest extra tension, it started to twist. In this case, clockwise. Since my lower deadeye has a hook in the eye near the hull, I was able to unhook it, then turned it counterclockwise two turns and re-hooked it. At this point, the upper deadeye was almost straight with the correct tension.
Then I used a solution of a forum member on the brown wire. I coated it from top to bottom with a thin, colorless wood glue.
And, I gave the deadeye a little counterweight and secured it so that it could still twist a little when I removed it.
Below is the result on both backstays.
I now see in the photo that a deadeye block at the bottom of the rigging has also turned slightly. Great, we'll use the same trick.
Then I set the mizzen topmast stay and fitted it with a single block and hook on the deck, and a double block and tackle to the pin rail behind the mainmast at pin position 68, as per the plan drawing. In the photo of the rigging, you can see the connection at the top where the flagpole will be.
I also added some extra eyes to the deck. They might be necessary or serve as a helper eye, but I could still fit them in now. If they're not needed, they'll turn black and you'll probably not notice them later.
Continued with the mizzen topmast rigging. Most of the ratlines are now complete. Very short ones at the top.
I use quite a bit of extra length. This makes working with it a bit easier. The shorter the thread, the harder it is to tie the knots.
Finally, an overview photo of the current state. I've now removed the ship from the "heavy yard" and placed it on the simple work stand.
I have to rotate the model a lot in this state, and with the heavy yard, that's a bit more difficult.
However, I now have protruding parts at the front and back that aren't protected by the heavy yard dimensions. So be careful and proceed with caution.
Next week I'll finish the mizzen topmast shrouds.
After that, I'll probably see if I can make and install the rudder if time allows.
We'll see.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Thank you for your likes this past week.
Regarding the "twisting" of the upper deadeye on both mizzen backstays, that problem has been solved.
After some testing, I discovered that the twisting was occurring in the rope running above the deadeye to the mast.
With the slightest extra tension, it started to twist. In this case, clockwise. Since my lower deadeye has a hook in the eye near the hull, I was able to unhook it, then turned it counterclockwise two turns and re-hooked it. At this point, the upper deadeye was almost straight with the correct tension.
Then I used a solution of a forum member on the brown wire. I coated it from top to bottom with a thin, colorless wood glue.
And, I gave the deadeye a little counterweight and secured it so that it could still twist a little when I removed it.
Below is the result on both backstays.
I now see in the photo that a deadeye block at the bottom of the rigging has also turned slightly. Great, we'll use the same trick.
Then I set the mizzen topmast stay and fitted it with a single block and hook on the deck, and a double block and tackle to the pin rail behind the mainmast at pin position 68, as per the plan drawing. In the photo of the rigging, you can see the connection at the top where the flagpole will be.
I also added some extra eyes to the deck. They might be necessary or serve as a helper eye, but I could still fit them in now. If they're not needed, they'll turn black and you'll probably not notice them later.
Continued with the mizzen topmast rigging. Most of the ratlines are now complete. Very short ones at the top.
I use quite a bit of extra length. This makes working with it a bit easier. The shorter the thread, the harder it is to tie the knots.
Finally, an overview photo of the current state. I've now removed the ship from the "heavy yard" and placed it on the simple work stand.
I have to rotate the model a lot in this state, and with the heavy yard, that's a bit more difficult.
However, I now have protruding parts at the front and back that aren't protected by the heavy yard dimensions. So be careful and proceed with caution.
Next week I'll finish the mizzen topmast shrouds.
After that, I'll probably see if I can make and install the rudder if time allows.
We'll see.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Fine modeling, Clemens.
Good morning Clemens. I have been so busy lately that I had to play some catch up with your build. Wow, you are owning this. Beautiful work. Cheers Grant
Nice progress, Clemens. Strip by step working on the top masts she is getting more body.The weekly update for week 08-2026.
Thank you for your likes this past week.
Regarding the "twisting" of the upper deadeye on both mizzen backstays, that problem has been solved.
After some testing, I discovered that the twisting was occurring in the rope running above the deadeye to the mast.
With the slightest extra tension, it started to twist. In this case, clockwise. Since my lower deadeye has a hook in the eye near the hull, I was able to unhook it, then turned it counterclockwise two turns and re-hooked it. At this point, the upper deadeye was almost straight with the correct tension.
Then I used a solution of a forum member on the brown wire. I coated it from top to bottom with a thin, colorless wood glue.
And, I gave the deadeye a little counterweight and secured it so that it could still twist a little when I removed it.
Below is the result on both backstays.
View attachment 580061 View attachment 580062
I now see in the photo that a deadeye block at the bottom of the rigging has also turned slightly. Great, we'll use the same trick.
Then I set the mizzen topmast stay and fitted it with a single block and hook on the deck, and a double block and tackle to the pin rail behind the mainmast at pin position 68, as per the plan drawing. In the photo of the rigging, you can see the connection at the top where the flagpole will be.
View attachment 580065
I also added some extra eyes to the deck. They might be necessary or serve as a helper eye, but I could still fit them in now. If they're not needed, they'll turn black and you'll probably not notice them later.
Continued with the mizzen topmast rigging. Most of the ratlines are now complete. Very short ones at the top.
View attachment 580066
I use quite a bit of extra length. This makes working with it a bit easier. The shorter the thread, the harder it is to tie the knots.
Finally, an overview photo of the current state. I've now removed the ship from the "heavy yard" and placed it on the simple work stand.
I have to rotate the model a lot in this state, and with the heavy yard, that's a bit more difficult.
However, I now have protruding parts at the front and back that aren't protected by the heavy yard dimensions. So be careful and proceed with caution.
View attachment 580067
Next week I'll finish the mizzen topmast shrouds.
After that, I'll probably see if I can make and install the rudder if time allows.
We'll see.
Have a great build week, everyone.
Regards, Peter
The weekly update for week 09-2026.
Thanks for the likes and your comments.
My apologies in advance for some of the item names in English.
As hoped, I've finished the mizzen mast shrouds and installed the flagpole.
With that, the mizzen mast is now finished in its base. So, at full height.
For a change of pace, I decided to finish part of the stern.
Starting with the rudder.
This seems like a nice project because it requires a lot of precision work. I started with the materials included in the kit and the instructions.
The brass strip was 0.75mm thick. I found this a bit coarse compared to all the other fine details in the ornaments, and what I added myself.
So I opted for some aftermarket products that are also nice to work with, 0.4mm thick.
The rudder hooks/pintles have been provided with more holes for the nails.
The result is the rudder as it stands now. Treated with olive stain for the color. The same as the hull of the ship.
So, olive stain on walnut. The rudder braces are next week's work, and I hope to be able to hang the rudder blade.
Of course, there's still some work to be done between the hooks and the rod that goes on top.
The brass still needs to be blackened.
Plenty to look forward to next week.
For everyone, great model build next week!
Thanks for the likes and your comments.
My apologies in advance for some of the item names in English.
As hoped, I've finished the mizzen mast shrouds and installed the flagpole.
With that, the mizzen mast is now finished in its base. So, at full height.
For a change of pace, I decided to finish part of the stern.
Starting with the rudder.
This seems like a nice project because it requires a lot of precision work. I started with the materials included in the kit and the instructions.
The brass strip was 0.75mm thick. I found this a bit coarse compared to all the other fine details in the ornaments, and what I added myself.
So I opted for some aftermarket products that are also nice to work with, 0.4mm thick.
The rudder hooks/pintles have been provided with more holes for the nails.
The result is the rudder as it stands now. Treated with olive stain for the color. The same as the hull of the ship.
So, olive stain on walnut. The rudder braces are next week's work, and I hope to be able to hang the rudder blade.
Of course, there's still some work to be done between the hooks and the rod that goes on top.
The brass still needs to be blackened.
Plenty to look forward to next week.
For everyone, great model build next week!