1682 HMY FUBBS - 1:24 - Stern Section [COMPLETED BUILD]

shota70 said:
magnificent car :)
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Thank you Shota, I enjoy a lot driving it. I am doing some small repairs and I hope in a month it will be ready. I am already missing the nice guys of the Ford Model A club in Massachusetts. A few pictures from one of our meetings for you to enjoy these beauties.


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cheers
Daniel
PS. Mine is among those. Here is a picture at my old house in MA.

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Dematosdg said:
Thank you Shota, I enjoy a lot driving it. I am doing some small repairs and I hope in a month it will be ready. I am already missing the nice guys of the Ford Model A club in Massachusetts. A few pictures from one of our meetings for you to enjoy these beauties.


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cheers
Daniel
PS. Mine is among those. Here is a picture at my old house in MA.

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Dear Daniel
Wow wow :eek::D
I salute you and even a little jealous ;):D it's a beautiful collection
if I will be in the area some day , I promise to visit you if you promise me a tour :D:p:cool:
 
Mike41 said:
Nice work Daniel, you are making good progress.
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donfarr said:
A VERY BELATED HAPPY BIRTHDAY DANIEL AND MANY, MANY MORE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
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Tobias said:
Hi Daniel, absolutely fantastic work.
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Thank you Mike , Don and Tobias. These comments coming from experience modelers like you, tells me that my built is going well !!!. Thank you also to all the likes, those also send me the same message.

Moving forward, yesterday I was able to fit the paneling section of the Main room as well as cut the window of one side. I still have to do the other side. I did a template on cardstock that I later translate to the panel section. After that I cut the window on the hull and transfer it to the template. Then, again, I transfer the window shape and position to the panel section. Cut it and shaped. Sounds easy, and it isn't complicated beside that it took me 3 hours to do it. :-) The last 2 pictures are the tools I used to cut the window on the hull and on the Cherry paneling. Planks are laser drawings on one side.

The other side will be on the next posting.

Cheers to all
Daniel

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Hi Guys

Here we go again. Finished cutting the window on the other side. Today was faster because I knew what tools I needed and how to cut them. Nevertheless took me around 2 hours.

The panels are unglue. I will glue them after this posting and will try to do the internal and external window frames. Not rocket science but it will take time to decide what wood and how I will do them. I have a few ideas.

There is a picture showing a piece of plank thicknes so you can understand that it wasn't an easy cut. On top of that, the planks are Hard Maple, a tuff guy to work with, and they have pear wood veneer as a second planking. I was afraid that the pear wood will brake during the cutting and sanding. 2 Tips to avoid that: FIRST, at the windows sections and all the sections nearby the end, I used a heated bending iron tool (pictured). The glue Weldbond dry very fast but you can do it faster with heat. Glue was homogenous extended with my finger all along the veneer plank. The veneer plank was placed over the Hard Maple planks clamped to dry, and in critical places I used the bending iron tool doing pressure and providing heat. This evaporates faster the glue water and the hand pressure with heat make it dry faster and homogeneous attached. Then you can test how was your work, by passing your finger on the exposed sides. If the veneer is strong/well glued then you reduce your risk of breaking it. SECOND tip, always sand against the veneer and sand only in that direction. I needed to use strong and big sanding tools. Then I have to be "very careful " that I was always sanding against the plank. Only on that direction.

Probably you all know all these tricks. Nevertheless I thought that it will be nice to post them. I learned them from reading logs at SOS, and model books.

The last picture shows how thick was the wood I needed to sand.

Cheers !!!
Daniel

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Hi guys

Thank you very much for all your comments and likes !!!

This will be a small update but another milestone achieved "Great Cabin Windows cut, shapped and framed".

I left you, on my previous posting, after I cut them. Then I did this:

First I needed to place an internal frame. For that, I first filled all the spaces seen in the below picture with putty to provide some support for the internal framing.

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Above , one side as it ended after cutting the windows opening. Bellow filled with putty.

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Then I framed with pear wood, internally and externally (Internally with the veneer).

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Wall panels glued and how they looks.

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Cheers to all !!

Daniel
 
Hi guys

I have been busy doing a few parts for the Fubb that I needed to have in place to continue. What I am showing today is a small part. But better now than later when all start to be crowded.

Added the Great Cabin partition wall below the quarter deck (see back of stair)

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This wall was planked on the other side

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Then I fine tuned the poop deck sections to make then fit correctly.

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Then I built the Great Cabin rear bench.

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Then I finished the Grand Cabin entrance stair. To which I added 2 Dophins carved in boxwood done by Mike Shanks a few years ago for my Statenjacht Pegasus built. He made a few just in case. I used 2 on the Pegasus and decided to add 2 to the Great Cabin stair. Stair not glued until I finish all the Great Cabin entrance.

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Those Dolphins require a lot of time to clean and polish them. They were carved on one side and then turned around and carved from the other side. Is a 3D Dolphin carved used 2D CNC (i think i am explaining it correctly :) ).

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For now this is all. I did more work, but yet need to be finished. We will see it on the next posting.

Cheers
Daniel
 
I had a LOT of catching up to do now! First, the pics of the Model A's are lovely. Secondly, you are building an outstanding stern section. Up to now the parquet floor has obviously been a focal point, but now that you have completed the inner wall paneling, that has become my new favorite part - it lends such a warm and homely atmosphere to the cabin. The rear bench looks great and fits beautifully over that arched stern planking, the stairs look wonderful (I will still see how the dolphins pan out and how they will fit into the big picture). I just have one suggestion. I know it is probably not what the build plans specify, but can't you replace these inner window frames with miter-jointed ones? The current look (to me) does not do the detailed look of the rest of the interior justice. Just a suggestion.

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Heinrich said:
I had a LOT of catching up to do now! First, the pics of the Model A's are lovely. Secondly, you are building an outstanding stern section. Up to now the parquet floor has obviously been a focal point, but now that you have completed the inner wall paneling, that has become my new favorite part - it lends such a warm and homely atmosphere to the cabin. The rear bench looks great and fits beautifully over that arched stern planking, the stairs look wonderful (I will still see how the dolphins pan out and how they will fit into the big picture). I just have one suggestion. I know it is probably not what the build plans specify, but can't you replace these inner window frames with miter-jointed ones? The current look (to me) does not do the detailed look of the rest of the interior justice. Just a suggestion.

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I totally agree with you, 100% . I tried several times to do it with miter joints, but failed. At Weasel's we are waiting who will be the first to succeed.

BUT !!!!!!!!! ... I went to bed with your posting and on my dreams i remembered i got from Cornwall Models pear wood strips 0.5x5 mm. The same width of the stripsi used for framing the window, 1,5x5mm.

I woke up and went directly to look for those pear strips. I found them, glued to the actual frame and cut them on the spot using brand new X-acto blades.

And here you go my friend. !!!!!



www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk

Cherry & Pear Strip

PLEASE NOTE: Wood is a natural product, and as such colours and grain can vary quite considerably, especially on the darker woods such as Walnut and Mahogany. If you wish to have a specific colour it is advisable that you send us in a sample in order for us to try to match, again being a natural...
www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk



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Now.... Do you like these one's ? :-)

Cheers
Daniel
 
Guys, I had a few minutes today and decided to built a cover for the ruder. It will be bad that the rudder be visible for the King when resting. This is not included with the model, nevertheless it was recently added to the prototype. So I decided that was an excellent idea and replicated it.

The rudder will have the sides rounded. Have not yet worked on it .


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Cheers
Daniel
Ps: Forgot to say I used Hard Maple from my own stock
 
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Dematosdg said:
I totally agree with you, 100% . I tried several times to do it with miter joints, but failed. At Weasel's we are waiting who will be the first to succeed.

BUT !!!!!!!!! ... I went to bed with your posting and on my dreams i remembered i got from Cornwall Models pear wood strips 0.5x5 mm. The same width of the stripsi used for framing the window, 1,5x5mm.

I woke up and went directly to look for those pear strips. I found them, glued to the actual frame and cut them on the spot using brand new X-acto blades.

And here you go my friend. !!!!!



www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk

Cherry & Pear Strip

PLEASE NOTE: Wood is a natural product, and as such colours and grain can vary quite considerably, especially on the darker woods such as Walnut and Mahogany. If you wish to have a specific colour it is advisable that you send us in a sample in order for us to try to match, again being a natural...
www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk



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Now.... Do you like these one's ? :)

Cheers
Daniel
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I LOVE Those ones! Gold Star First Place MetalThumbsupExplosion
 
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