18th Century Longboat Model Expo 1:48

Looking at the bow platform and comparing it to the sheet plans, I realized it sat too high up on the boat and would not look right when the risers were placed. So I carefully unglued it from the frame. I decided one part of the problem was that the frames were too thick. Using my #17 blade like a chisel I carefully thinned out the frames. I also sanded the platform a bit smaller and deepened the notches with a file. I was much happier with the placement the second time around.

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Rob444 said:
Looking at the bow platform and comparing it to the sheet plans, I realized it sat too high up on the boat and would not look right when the risers were placed. So I carefully unglued it from the frame. I decided one part of the problem was that the frames were too thick. Using my #17 blade like a chisel I carefully thinned out the frames. I also sanded the platform a bit smaller and deepened the notches with a file. I was much happier with the placement the second time around.

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Good morning Rob. Very good redo. It has made a big difference. Cheers Grant
 
Next up was installation of the risers. The instructions would have you use the 5/32" strip for the riser. I thought it looked a bit too wide and it did not agree with the width as shown on the plans. I used the 1/8" by 1/32" strip instead. I made a tick strip on a piece of paper 3/16 of an inch and used it to mark the frames holding it under the cap rail.
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After the frames were marked I cut the 1/8"X1/32" strip to the approximate length and test fitted them

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After being happy with the length and how the fit along the frames I glued them in place with PVA glue.

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Being happy with the placement of the risers, I put on some sanding sealer to the parts of the boat that were not previously covered. The whole boat was then stained with 2 coats of Minwax golden pecan (the color I have) which darkened the wood slightly by evened the color. After allowing the stain to dry I painted the cap rail with two coats of the model expo Bright red detail pain which came with the kit. The paint was very thick so I added some thinner to thin it to a better consistency.

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The back of the transom was painted with 2 coats of thinned model expo white. The transom will later be covered with a paper frieze so I wanted white to provide a neutral background.

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When I was fitting the thwarts I realized that the part that was the make the front wall of the locker was cut too high. It should be level with the risers as a seat goes across the locker is level with the risers and thwarts. I carefully separated the locker wall from the boat, shortened the height and reattached it to the boat.

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One of the thwarts is extra thick and holds the stepped mast. It is made of slightly wider strip. I cut the strip to length and test fitted it. I then marked the center and made a grove in the center using a small file. I wrapped some 220 sandpaper around the mast and used it to sand a correct size oval into the thwart.

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The windlass was next. This actually turned out easier than I thought it would. A 5/32 X 5/32" piece was cut to size and test fitted. The areas that were to remain square were marked out.

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Using files and a #11 blade as a chisel, I slowly carved out the corners, leaving an octagon shaped piece with 2 square areas for the holes. I then, using progressively larger drills, drilled holes into the faces of the square areas. I worked very gingerly to make sure the wood did not split. After the holes were drilled I made them into a square outline by using a small square diamond file.

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Hi Rob,
Will you be putting the slot in the aft platform for the davit? I have seen this left off even contemporary models including the well known long boats from the Medway at RMG so we are all in good company if it is not there:). If there is a windlass there would have been a davit so it follows that there would be davit supports. Examples are below where the davit can be seen going through the platform to the support rod and chocks.
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The square areas were painted red and small holes were drilled into the end. Small pieces of 22 gauge wire were attached to the ends with UV setting glue. 2 holes were drilled into the risers at the correct location and the windlass placed by placing the wire of one end into the hole of the riser and slowly pushing the other end in until the wire "popped" into place.

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AllanKP69 said:
Hi Rob,
Will you be putting the slot in the aft platform for the davit? I have seen this left off even contemporary models including the well known long boats from the Medway at RMG so we are all in good company if it is not there:). If there is a windlass there would have been a davit so it follows that there would be davit supports. Examples are below where the davit can be seen going through the platform to the support rod and chocks.
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From my reading, I believe those davits were used to help raise or reposition the main ships anchors. It appears the longboat was often sent out to help in this way. When you think of it, it is amazing the amount of physical labor these men had to do daily.

I was not going to put that slot in. Thank you for the pictures, they give great detail about the gudgeons of the rudder!

Rob
 
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Hi Rob,
There are dozens of high resolution contemporary ships' boats plans in Wiki Commons site and many more in low res on the RMG Collections website. The Danish Archives also have a lot of contemporary plans to compare to modern renditions. These are great sources to find original plans to compare to modern renditions.

Not sure what you mean about grunions and I am guessing it is just a terminology thing. We used to catch them on the beach and make a meal of them. Good excuse to get out at night and drink beer with the guys. :)

Cheers
 
AllanKP69 said:
Hi Rob,
There are dozens of high resolution contemporary ships' boats plans in Wiki Commons site and many more in low res on the RMG Collections website. The Danish Archives also have a lot of contemporary plans to compare to modern renditions. These are great sources to find original plans to compare to modern renditions.

Not sure what you mean about grunions and I am guessing it is just a terminology thing. We used to catch them on the beach and make a meal of them. Good excuse to get out at night and drink beer with the guys. :)

Cheers
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sorry about the typo. I meant gudgeons
 
Next the two lifting rings that are used to life the longboat out of the water and on to the main ship were installed. This was actually more difficult than it may seem. When the provided split rings were opened up they were wider than the hole of the provided eye bolts. After several frustrating tries, I finally put the split rings together and opened the eye bolts a bit until they could fit around the split rings. They were blackedned with brass black and glued into holes I drilled into the floorboards using UV setting glue.

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Very nice build Rob!
As you have not yet rigged the boom sheet, this might be an interesting point for discussion The instructions show the tiller over the horse. This configuration seems to have been taken from the famous Medway model at RMG which is an understandable thing to do. But it brings up the question of how the sheet block would move from one side to the other when the boat is being tacked without interfering with the tiller? Other than having the horse higher and the tiller passing under it I cannot think of a solution. Hope someone here does.
Allan
 
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