Hi Dean, Yes it’s coming along but it only seems quick, what you don’t know is the amount of midnight oil that I’ve been burning. When things are going well I just seem to not notice the late hour and keep going, I imagine that you are probably the same.Definitely a big beautiful boat! It’s going together quick! Great work Ken!
Ha ha, I hear ya Ken! I have started at 8pm and next thing I know it’s 2am!Hi Dean, Yes it’s coming along but it only seems quick, what you don’t know is the amount of midnight oil that I’ve been burning. When things are going well I just seem to not notice the late hour and keep going, I imagine that you are probably the same.
I agree Ken, it makes absolute good sense to plank to the inner edge of the corner pieces, and trim and sand the planking flush, prior to installing them. That way you can match the profile easy, because now you can adjust either the planking or the corner piece, or both! You can now save those for last, after the second planking is done. Good call!Hello. I’ve been burning the midnight oil again and made good progress, so here goes.
I’ve made up and put the upper decks into place. The pieces are pre cut from ply and the initial fitting was reasonable, it only needed minor adjustments to get an ok fit. I was glad that I’d put in hardwood battens along the outer edges of the frames as there is quite a camber and all the pieces needed nailing down along the edges. I have made a start on the rear hatch cover as I now know the exact size that it needs to be. I put into place the ply lower section of the stern, the first layer of planking starts just above.
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It is here that I differ from the instructions, they have been very good so far but the sequence that they tell me to continue I think is defiantly wrong. You will see that at the back there are two large curved mahogany pieces which will form the upper and outer sections of the stern which will later be carved to form a rounded rear. I am told to fit them now, if I do so it would make life much harder later. The second planking would need to butt tight up against it meaning that rather than leaving it slightly over length and sanding off to fit you would need to get the planks exact front and rear including any tapering if you wanted to avoid filler. The other issue would be getting an exact fit across the stern between the deep edge pieces, that planking needs to be tapered and curved with its edges champherd to get a close fit, then because of the deep recess you couldn’t get a sanding block in to sand level the first layer. I thought far better to get them to a good fit but add them later, I could then just concentrate on getting a good fit with tapering the front and cut off flush when dry at the rear. When I’d planked the stern I could offer up the outer edge pieces mark and cut the planks to shape. Does that make sense?
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It all went smoothly, I was pleased. That is now all the first layers done so next will be the second, mahogany planking.
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Looking better all the time! Thanks for the CA glue tip!Hello. Well here goes with the second planking. The strips are pretty good quality mahogany 1.5mm thick, not the normal second planking which is usually 1mm. It’s fairly stiff but the lines are such that I can get away with just using my Amati plank nipper. I was happy with the pattern of the first planking so I just followed that with only a slight adjustment. I use cyno for my second planking putting a bead of no more than 2 inches along the hull then holding down firmly in place until it sets, I then move along to the next section. If you try and do longer sections to do it faster it is easy to not get a tight fit, it’s a fairly quick method. I’ve done this on all my recent models and I find that I always get very good results. This model will stand or fall on the quality of this planking, on most planked hulls it doesn’t matter if the seams are visible but with the high gloss finish that I hope to achieve any seam visible will spoil the appearance.
Here’s how I use my cyno, I’ve been using it this way for years and I can’t think of a better way. No mess, no clogged nozzles or stuck fingers, and less fumes.
I put into the nozzle a hypodermic syringe, ( cheap on Ebay ) this gives you great control over the flow, from the smallest blob to a nice even line, you can get into the tightest areas like under the planks or a small blob into the rigging. The tip rarely clogs but when it does put a flame to it and being flammable it quickly burns off and it flows again. You don’t waste the stuff, you’ll find that a tub lasts much longer, when finished leave the syringe in and just swap the top over to the next tub, I find that it lasts well over a year before it needs replacing, trust me on this you’ll never use another method
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Looking good Ken, really taking shape!Hello, Things are moving forward onto the more interesting part of the build, the detail that will bring out it’s character. I’ve been burning the midnight oil again. I’ve given it another sanding, attached the dashboard support, planked the stern, fitted and shaped the stern edge blocks. The mahogany deck pieces needed just a small amount of correcting to fit except the rear part which was too far out, I made up a new section out of scrap to fit properly, I fitted and glued down these deck pieces, completed the making of the hatch then filled the gap between the side planking and deck with fillets of planks, it’s really taking shape now.
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Hi Daniel, Me too. I'm doing a little side project, I'm going to push on with the small rear hatch and varnish that just to see how looks, I can't wait until I varnish the whole hull.Looks like you have a good tight clean fit up going there Ken. I can't wait to see how the varnish coats bring out the brilliance of the wood!